20 Most Recent 1994 Toyota Land Cruiser - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Check the alternator to battery wire which is thick. It may have broken some where from the battery, alternator or there may be a joint in between. Check the battery also. If a blackish powder like deposits are seen around the caps or terminals, it indicates that the battery is at fault.

Toyota Santa Fe engine? there are 3 engines, which one? (size) is this a Hyundai engine in a Toyota or the reverse? im clueless. you posted to toy forum section, so>?>>> first off anything is possible with a plasma cutter. so..... ill not do that what i will do is post the answer from your missing FSM. in a word , NO. 2.4 and 2.7L (2 of 3) pasted below Hyundai 2.4L & 2.7L Engines

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Remove the battery and air cleaner assembly.
3. Drain the cooling system.
4. Drain the engine oil.
5. Drain the transaxle fluid.
6. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
7. Disconnect the following electrical connections:
   • Starter
   • Alternator
   • Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
   • Power steering switch connector
   • Oil pressure gauge connector
   • Back-up lamp switch connector
   • A/T solenoid inhibitor switch connector
   • Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
   • Ignition coil
   • Idle Speed Control (ISC) valve connector
   • Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor
   • Oxygen (O2S) sensor connector
8. If equipped with an automatic transaxle, disconnect the oil cooler lines.
9. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Radiator hoses from the engine
   • Radiator
   • Engine ground
   • Brake vacuum hose
   • Heater hoses at the engine
   • Throttle cable at the engine
   • Cruise control cable at the engine, if equipped
   • Main fuel line at the supply/return pipe
   • Speedometer cable at the transaxle
   • Clutch or control cable from the transaxle
   • Power steering hoses from the pump
   • Steering dust cover in the engine compartment
   • Gear box universal joint bolt
   • Front wheel
   • Brake caliper and support with wire
   • Strut lower bolt
   • Front muffler bolts
   • Transaxle control rod and extension rod, if equipped with a manual transaxle
10. Support the transaxle with a jack using the special attachment shown in the accompanying illustration. Attach the special tool to the transaxle jack and support the transaxle
11. Make sure all cable, harness connectors and hoses are disconnected from the engine and transaxle.
12. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Engine and transaxle mounting brackets
    • Sub frame bolts
    • Drive shaft
13. Lower the engine and transaxle assembly enough so the front and rear roll stoppers can be removed.
14. Remove the engine assembly.

To install:

1. Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following steps:
   • Tighten the roll stopper bolts to 36-47 ft. lbs. (50-65 Nm)
   • Tighten the transaxle mounting bracket bolts to 65-80 ft. lbs. (90-110 Nm)
   • Tighten the engine mount bracket bolts to 43-58 ft. lbs. (60-80 Nm)
2. Fill the engine crankcase to the correct level.
3. Fill the transaxle to the correct level.
4. Fill the cooling system.
5. Fill the power steering system.
6. Start the engine and check for leaks.
7. Check the wheel alignment and adjust as necessary.

end paste read the FSM or login to alldata.com and read. or login to mitchels and read. its all there to read.

are you on ice? its part time 4wd right? test it on dirt, work now? well that is what part time works on, it does not work on dry pavement and if you do it wrecks it. part time works only if one or or more wheel can slip. off road, on grass, on ice, on snow never on just water wet pavement or dry pavement. (cant slip) if you fail to heed this ,it will windup, and BOOM

Check your transmission fluid levelor your torque converter is going bad (if automatic transmission)If manual transmission, replace clutch

check that the cam belt has not broken . Check that there is no air leak in any fuel lines

IT is possible that the head gasket is loose and the oil passage to the overhead gear is compromised and oil is being force past the gasket into the cooling system. Some engines have an engine oil cooler in the side to cool the engine oil and if yours has one it may be split in internally. They can be tested but are di9fficult to repair. You will see radiator hoses going to and from the unit and it is bolted to the block

the trans cooler inside the radiator is leaking, replace the radiator or have it repaired.

Bit of a long shot, but check the output of the throttle position sensor with a multimeter.

Also, check that the low range switch isn't continually reporting that you are in low range. The gearbox computer adopts a VERY harsh shift pattern in low range, holding gears until approx. 3500 RPM and even then producing very hard shifts.

Try unplugging the connector that carries the low range sense signal from the transfer box under the vehicle and see if that makes a difference.

When dealing with wiring on a vehicle, it can go from something real simple, to something real complicated, in a hurry!

1.Checked to make sure the headlights have high beam? Bulbs are good in that respect? Not trying to insult your intelligence, but sometimes it's the simple things we overlook. Again, not trying to sound 'Uppity', but do you have access to a type of jumper wire, that has a needle type of tip on both ends? This way you can stick the needle tip, into the wire that has 'juice' for the low beam side of the headlight, and touch the high beam side. See if the high beam comes on.

2.Sometimes it's as simple as a bad ground. There is a wire, or wires, that come out of the headlight wire loom, and have a rounded metal terminal end. A machine screw, goes through the hole in this rounded metal terminal end, and fastens it to the metal sheet metal of the body.

The metal frame of a vehicle, and the metal sheet metal, is the ground for a vehicle.
A lot of times, where this rounded metal terminal end is fastened to the sheet metal, (Or frame), rust can develop between them. Between the metal terminal end, and the sheet metal. This makes a bad contact for grounding.

There is enough of a ground source for low beam headlights, but not enough for the additional draw of the high beams.

3.In the headlight wire loom, there is a Fusible Link. This looks like a 1, or 2, or 3 inch large bump in the wire. This fusible link is designed to melt inside, and break contact, should it need to. Sometimes it's readily apparent when you view this fusible link. It will have the plastic covering melted on one side, or partially around. Sometimes it's not so obvious. (Isn't wiring fun(?)
You just have to use the probes, (Needle tip is real nice here), on a multimeter, (Set to DC voltage, and the 50 volt scale), and track from battery to headlight switch, to headlights.

4.Lastly, it may be the headlight switch itself.

fi;; the tank with gas

I suspect that there is a failed bearing on the output shaft or on the cluster shaft. This comes from the burnt oil condition which happens when a bearing is over heating due to failure and the gears not aligned when trying to change gears.

Hi Tarrell,This is normally a valves plug that start to rust and got a very small whole in it. Take the manifold of and replace the plug. This will save your engine.

I had an '87 Celica doing the same thing and it was an intake manifold gasket that wasn't sealing-pulling in a lot of air. A lot more than a vacuum hose leak, which would only raise the idle a bit, but not cause the surging you are having and that I had. So check for a large air or vacuum leak. A rip or hole in the large intake boot may also be the source.To check the manifold gasket, get a spray bottle filled with water and have someone keep the engine running at around 2000 rpm or higher. Soak the area all around the intake manifold gasket, wet it down pretty good. If any leaks are there, the water will get sucked in and cause a noticeable stumble in the engine, may even try to die. Check all hoses for vacuum leaks too, the large hose to the power brake booster.If it's not a vacuum leak, try unplugging the MAF sensor and see how the engine runs. If it settles down, clean or check the sensor.

Check wheel balance,drive shaft universal joints

Best not be an azzclown and get your T Belt changed and it may be less than 1500 dollars but good luck with that,ya get what you pay for!

OBD (On board diagnostic) connections are usually located near the bottom of the steering column. Your owners manual will identify the location for you.