20 Most Recent 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser Questions & Answers

glo plug relay or wires from the switch to that relay

I would not recommend this vehicle for this job.You want at least a 3/4 ton truck so you will have a strong transmission and cooling system and rear end for pulling and more importantly large brakes for stopping.Plus 240km is to high for reliable trouble free towing..

More like the timing not advancing correctly

It's best to get a repair manual from an auto parts store. It will give you step by step instructions with diagrams. You'll need a large compliment of tools to do the job as well as a floor jack and jack stands of sufficient strength to safely support the weight of the vehicle.

Hi There. Have the exact same problem on my 95mod petrol with the sub fuel tank not emptying. think it may be the relay but cant find it. The earlier models have the relay in the rear wheel well, but ours are set up differently. had the whole car to pieces but still cant find it. Was wondering if you had any luck with yours and could enlighten me. Thanks [email protected]

sounds like the wire or the unit that is powered by it has grounded out causing the short to blow the fuse.

Hi,when you buy the trans-fluid ask the shop or who you are buying from,they will look the wright one up for you. hope this was some help.

When you shift you put pressure on the throw out bearing. This is your noise. Replace it. You should replace the clutch package at the same time. Have the flywheel resurfaced. You olny want to do this one time.

Call lock smith or roadside assistance.

There's probably a Haynes or Chiltons for a few bucks. Try Amazon.

Probably ruined engine. Add oil, jump off and crank engine. If totally locked up, its over. If engine will start there is a slight chance that the computer shut off the engine when the oil pressure dropped to save it. If engine has a deep knock then engine will need replacing.

Compression Testing
See Figure 1
A noticeable lack of engine power, excessive oil consumption and/or poor fuel mileage measured over an extended period are all indicators of internal engine wear. Worn piston rings, scored or worn cylinder bores, leaking head gaskets, sticking or burnt valves and worn valve seats are all possible culprits here. A check of each cylinder's compression will help you locate the problems.
As mentioned in the Tools and Equipment part of General Information & Maintenance , a screw-in type compression gauge is more accurate that the type you simply hold against the spark plug hole, although it takes slightly longer to use. It's worth it to obtain a more accurate reading. Follow the procedures below.

1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.
   1. Remove all the spark plugs.
   2. Disconnect the high tension lead (coil wire) from the ignition coil.
   3. Fully open the throttle either by operating the carburetor throttle linkage by hand or by having an assistant floor the accelerator pedal.
   4. Screw the compression gauge into the No.1 spark plug hole until the fitting is snug.
   
   
   WARNING Be careful not to crossthread the plug hole. On aluminum cylinder heads use extra care, as the threads in these heads are easily ruined.
   
   1. Ask an assistant to depress the accelerator pedal fully on both carbureted and fuel injected vehicles. Then, while you read the compression gauge, ask the assistant to crank the engine two or three times in short bursts using the ignition switch. Read the compression gauge at the end of each series of cranks, and record the highest of these readings. Repeat this procedure for each of the engine's cylinders. As a general rule, new motors will have compression on the order of 150-170 psi (1034-1172 kPa). This number will decrease with age and wear. The number of pounds of pressure that your test shows is not as important as the evenness between all the cylinders. Many engines run very well with all cylinders at 105 psi (724 kPa). The lower number simply shows a general deterioration internally. This motor probably burns a little oil and may be a bit harder to start, but, based on these numbers, doesn't warrant an engine tear-down yet.Compare the highest reading of all the cylinders. Any variation of more than 10% should be considered a sign of potential trouble. For example, on a 4 cylinder engine, if your compression readings for cylinders 1 through 4 were: 135 psi (930 kPa), 125 psi (861 kPa), 90 psi (620 kPa) and 125 psi (861 kPa), it would be fair to say that cylinder number three is not working efficiently and is almost certainly the cause of your oil burning, rough idle or poor fuel mileage. If a cylinder is unusually low, pour a tablespoon of clean engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeat the compression test. If the compression comes up after adding the oil, it appears that the cylinder's piston rings or bore are damaged or worn. (The oil sealed some of the leakage.) If the pressure remains low, the valves may not be seating properly (a valve job is needed), or the head gasket may be blown near that cylinder. If compression in any two adjacent cylinders is low, and if the addition of oil doesn't help the compression, there is leakage past the head gasket. Oil and coolant in the combustion chamber can result from this problem. There may also be evidence of water droplets on the engine oil dipstick when a head gasket has blown.

This could be worn bottom end bearings, a worn oil pump, a weakened oil pressure relief spring, or a faulty gauge. I once saw a Landcruiser with a faulty gauge. Get another good gauge into the oil pressure port as a first step. If it gives the same low reading try a temporary fill of thicker engine oil. If this causes the reading to rise, it is probably worn bottom end bearings, not unusual in a 95 model. After that you will need to inspect the oil pump.

You could use Dexron III in a 1995 vehicle, or even Dexron II if it is still around. The modern Dexron AT fluids are for post-2006 vehicles.

triple posted, backup 2 and 3.