2003 Toyota RAV4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/toyota-rav4-p0171-p0174/

Get you a can of SEA FOAM at a local parts store
be sure to read the directions before you buy it.

You will get all the solution in service and repair manual which will provide you step by step help to locate and fix the problem easily and you will get the manual from the given link https://toolsnyou.com

Only if it was sitting for a LONG LONG time..... the belt...no biggie..change it!! Now .. the pump..ask why it needs replacing.. MAKE THEM SHOW YOU WHAT IS WRONG!! ... and do not take "just does" for an answer!!! If they insist it needs replacing, DEMAND to get the old pump returned to you and make them show you what is wrong with it..If they won't... its lawyer or arbitration time!!! YES>> the mechanic COULD have easily damaged it!!

Most likely your idle speed is too low due to dirt on throttle plates and IAC valve. cleaning these items usually restores normal idle operation.

big end bearings( lower engine rod bearings to confuse) knock at idle and get louder with rpm if the noise changes with rpm and you are hearing it near the ac compressor then it could be the ac pulley bearing test if it is the compressor by listening and then turning the ac off the pulley will still spin but the compressor stops if the noise remains , replace the pulley bearings

could be a vacum leak, water in your gas,injector clogged check all your basics cause of no check engine light

try to see if your getting power to it. check the wirering, then the fuses.

indicates rear engine mount and /or drive line joints failing

Error Code: P0325 Description: Knock Sensor (KS) 1 Bank 1 - Circuit Malfunction Possible Cause: Irregular rpm. Drivability problems. Loss of power. Engine damage. Wiring. Poor connection, short to earth, short to positive, open circuit. Knock sensor improperly torqued. Knock sensor. Engine control module (ECM). Possible Solutions: Torque Knock Sensor 1 to specifications. Check the resistance of the knock sensor (compare it to factory specs). Check for broken/frayed wires leading to the sensor. Replace the knock sensor. Check Knock Sensor 1 and Knock Control. Caution: This feature search for unusual (spontaneous) combustion. The sensor detects unusual vibrations and based on that it generates a voltage. Is this voltage outside a certain limit a DTC will be set.

Did you change air and fuel filter?

Optical disc drives of all types, like your CD drive, are notoriously undependable and have very short service lives. Repairing it would undoubtedly be FAR more expensive than simply replacing it with something newer and better.

Any check engine light?

Make sure you did not leave any wires off at the starter motor solenoid, the systems get there power from that terminal.

Broad opinion is the chain is good for 200,000 or the life of the engine. The big problem is the life of a chain is so variable depending on maintenance and driving conditions. A car with fewer cold starts and longer journeys driven mostly at a constant speed that has had regular oil changes using quality oil will have a considerably longer timing chain life than a car that has lots of cold starts, short runs and minimal maintenance. Mostly a worn chain will rattle at idle for a while before it breaks and causes damage. When servicing a chain driven engine it is often possible to get a look at the chain through the oil filler. If not it is worthwhile to occasionally remove the valve cover and expose the chain and check it for wear where it passes over the sprockets. With a worn chain it will be possible to detect some slackness where it passes over a sprocket even though the chain seems tight between the sprockets. This condition indicates the ideal time to change the chain, tensioner and guides for the purpose of preventative maintenance, though typically a chain will last a lot longer but then when the chain must eventually be replaced the sprockets are likely to need replacing in addition to avoid a prematurely worn (replacement) chain.

if electric windows on rear motor may have gone

You cannot

call toyota

Middle fuse in the fuseholder attached to the positive terminal of the battery. It is probably a blue fuse and the cap is marked ALT 100A Usually blows because someone attached the cables the wrong way round trying to jump start (which is easy to do on the side of a country road in the dark when it's raining) or else put in a new battery and got the terminals the wrong way around (which is pretty hard to do). Let us know if you find it. If you put a new one in and it blows again, you may have an alternator problem so don't try it again before sorting that out (may even need an alternator).

go or call you local auto parts store and see if they will use the trilingual code reader, this device talks to the cars computer and it diagnoses the problem and gives you a code, than you look up the code or the auto parts store can look it up for you and you buy the part, ask the service or counter person to help you install it or ask for the installation guide to be printed out. if they dont have the product than think of buying your own device, you can buy one on line at www.harborfreight.com diagnostic device cen-tech: trilingual code readers part no. 98568, 62142, 49.99 + 6.99 fed ex shipped in 24 hours or go to you local store, go on line look for the location near you ebay and amazon.com also prices ????????????????