2003 Toyota RAV4 - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The actuator for the power locks is probably frozen or bad, or else the wiring has broken to it. Or, the body control module is bad.

Good luck in fixing this.

Had the same problem with my first car... It was the alternator. If your check engine light is on, go find a shop that does a free scan. If not craigslist someone with a scanner/diagnostics.

Yes. THere is a fuse blown. look in your owner manual for the fuse panel diagram. this will tell you where the panel is and how many amp fuse you will need to replace the blown one.

-Do not use breaker bar. Id it's too tight, you'll damage it.-Use 3 prong pulley.Mai

check the level of the transmission fluid while the engine is running.also has the transmission been "flushed"? a lot of shops just use dextron atf with the additives supplied by the supplier of the flushing machine.this can cause problems in toyotas.replacing the fluid with the correct (T IV) transmission fluidmay help.but if you are having this much trouble it may be too late.

Maybe $100-$200 for a new O 2 sensor. Denso brand only. problem with the O 2 sensor CIRCUIT. Maybe a burned wire in the heater circuit. No easy answers. Sorry.

where is thswitch for fog lights on rav4 2003?

nothing to do with breaks sounds more like a u joint or bearing

if not working from drivers or passenger side you need to remove passenger side door skin, with a test light check for power at the motor? If you have power at the motor and the motor is grounded you need a motor. If you dont have power and ground then you need a switch. This can be tricky sometimes the passenger switch is good and the problem is in the drivers side switch which is the main controller.

To fix the door knob lock, close the door slow & watch how the latch bolt meets the strike plate.The bolt may be positioned above, below, or 1 side of the strike plate.Its also possible the door has shrunk & the latch no longer reaches the plate.-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------BMW car diagnostic tool

3 things to check. The shift solenoid, thewiring to the solenoid and the ECM itself. If wiring and solenoid are fine then replace/repair ECM. Go towww.topix.com/forum/autos/toyota/TGGE7144BGETEBJ2E for more info on some faulty ECM's sold by Toyota

Did they check your drive belt? Belt or pulley's may have smoothed out too much and need maintenence. Not uncommon for garages to miss this diagnosis.

Go to Auto Zone. They will read trouble codes for free. murf427

Sounds like you may have a weak fuel pump.Check your fuel pressure and if its not within the specs that are required then replace the fuel pump and filter.

follow the rear drive shaft from the rear axle and where it meets the front is where the transfer case is

The air/fuel sensor and the a/c are two different entities. P1135 is the bank1 sensor 1 air fuel heater circuit code. If you have a four cylinder this sensor would be before the catalytic converter. Since this is a heater circuit issue I would check fuss to wake sure the heater fuse, if one is present, is not blown. Also what brand of sensor did you install? Did you clear the code with a scan tool after you installed the new part. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

need code to help

its possible that is a maintance light and car is due for a service. if car was recently serviced then this light was probably not reset, it is set to change with certain mileages

sound like clutch plate

sounds like wiring harness issue