2003 Toyota RAV4 - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

adjustment that does not bring it up where clucht already reached a time when you can not get the change and have

using a high grade full synthetic is the best.
the oil grade which is 10w30 is for average driving conditions.
for winter,5w30 and 10w40 for summer is also recommended by alot of car manufacturers.The oil filler cap will tell you the oil grade.

time for an axcel rebuild
loook in the yellows for a rear end specialist they are usualy cheeper than mechanic as they specialize in theise problems and they can get parts faster

spark plugs do not come with wires you have to purchase them separately you have to remove plug wires one ata ime and then remove plugs but make sure you mark each wire as to which plug you removed it rfrom and also when removing from distributor cap mark the wires there as well

it should have a spring loaded tensioner

If the radio works but the CD player doesn't it's something internal to the unit. The radio and CD player get their power source from the same wire that goes into the unit.

if its not reddish pink and its a little burnt change it,should be every 25,000 to 30,000 miles

inside the door is a screw at the top by the mirror itself on the inside of the door remove it and possibly the entire panel needs removal but after that there should be a piece of foam stuffed into the front door panel remove it and 3 screws /bolts will be there remove them as well as any lines or wire connections and installation is reverse procedure

Not sure what a labda sensor is. But, there are many emission sensors in the car that will make the engine light come ON. Not to mention the big list of trouble codes for the engine light. The engine light code will give you a big clue of what's causing the problem.


Best way to find out what's going on engine light is to have an auto-parts store hook up a engine code reader and tell you what the code means and the problem. Most auto-part store will do this for free.

A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank
1 Sensor 1).
You most likely have a bad Air fuel sensor bank 1 sensor 1.

worn gearbox or engine mounts allowing the gearbox to move and unlatch the shift linkage from its position, or the shift linkage is mal-adjusted and not properly engaged in 5th gear at all.

There may be a knuckle joint that can be adjusted to give correct shifter operation, it may be out of adjustment. GM cars are prone to this after reversing uphill in a manual car, your Nissan may be similar. The engine moves away from the area of the shift lever and pulls the knuckle joint out further than it is supposed to be and causes the gears not to enage securely any more.

Brake pads usually last a long time depending on what type they are and how you use them. If you brake hard or tow anything they will probably last in the ballpark of 30-50K, and under normal service you could get up to 70- 100K on a pair of pads. If you remove the tires you should be able to poke your head under the wheel well with a flashlight and see how much pad is left. Also do keep in mind that excessive pedal travel while braking can also be caused by air in the brake lines as well as worn out pads and rotors. Air is a gas and can be conpressed in a hydraulic system (such as your brake system), where as brake fluid is a liquid and cannot be compressed. This is why air in the system is bad and can allow your foot pedal to move much further as you are having to compress all the air in the system before you actually start getting any braking power, make sense?? I hope this helps you out!

drive with it engaged.your engine will work less on the highway and give you better gas mileage.the switch is there for towing or when you need that extra pulling power because it stays in third gear.

Could be numerous things, fuel injector, spark plugs bad O2 sensor, etc. Take it to an autoparts store and have them scan the computer for fault codes. Most autoparts stores do this free of charge. Reading the codes will help to determine the cause of the problem.

Good luck.

Bob

there is a problem alright..but there are too many possibilties.. you will need a qualified shop to scan it, get codes and then test and inspect why that code or codes are in the ecm.

run scanner for trouble codes, some auto parts stores   will do this for free

if its fuel injected try the throttle postion sensor it can cause that

sorry if the cat is getting to clogged there is no way around it you most replace it because in time it will effect the performance of your engine.

first check the fuse. the interior one is under the dash marked as crtsy lamp.

Get a 12V testlight and have an asistant press the brake while the car is on. Do you get juice? NO? Check your BLS or brake light switch, brake relay and/or fuses(not likely). there are 2 places for fuses. under the hood AND under the dash. Good luck. (sound like your bulbs or BLS)