Top 20 2008 Toyota Camry Questions & Answers

3 way post. them , you and now you asking the forum to get involved in 3 way messI would fire himfind a real shop that can do the tests and tell you the primary cause of failure.as you can see he clearly is the wrong shop to ask on many levels.avoid them. (id even run)

Question edited for a little more clarity. Question moved to model category. This site doesn't do well on abbreviations. By 'acc' (I changed to 'ACC', do you mean the Accessory position on the ignition switch? Is the key worn out, is a recut key? Can you start the vehicle? You can try spraying Switch Cleaner into the lock. https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+Toyota+Camry.+I+cant+get+it+into+ACC+mode ..

Low transmission fluid or failed shift solenoids. https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+toyota+camry+okay+in+reverse+drive+not+working ..

Step 1 Slide the two front seats forward. This may not be necessary, but it will give you more room to work.Step 2 Pull the seatbelts out of the slits at the back of the cushion. You are not removing the seat belts, just moving them out of the way.Step 3 Remove the mounting bolt from the rear seat cushion with a socket wrench. You will have to lift up the front edge of the cushion to get at this bolt. Then, pull the cushion up and out of the Camry.Step 4 Locate the seat back locks and undo them by pulling them up.Step 5 Move the seat backs down and remove the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. These bolts will be located at the center hinges. Pull the seat back up and out of the Camry.

you need to locate the speedo wire, it can go like this. read wheel to the abs. to the sunroof motor to the auto box then ecu, and anything else before it gets to the speedo in the dash any one of these were is not connecting properly can give this code. also check the cog on the read wheel make sure its not mucked up. also if the abs is not lite up to say there is a fault its not that part that is the problem.

Check sway bar linkage.

Bad ignition switch

The charging system in your vehicle is computer controlled ,checking for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's should alway's be the first step in the diagnostic process ,testing for B+ voltage at the wiring connections at the alternator would be the next step if no DTC'S are stored . The single heavy gage wire on the back should have Battery voltage , the wire's at the connector ,three out of the four should have B+ voltage an the # 3 wire is the control circuit from the ECM - engine control module . Four fuse's supply B+ voltage to these connections . 10 amp gauge #1 , 7.5 amp gauge #2 , 7.5 amp ALT-S an 120 amp ALT fuse. If any one of these is blown the alternator won't charge . If you know nothing of automotive electrical system testing ,your best bet would be to take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop.

I would loosen every engine and trans mount and slide a piece of rubber between the mount and the body and retighten,this may change the vibration to level you can live with.

I would ask them and see what they say. Should not cost anything to ask.

If not the wrong key, maybe the locks are seized from not being used. Over time with humidity, and lubricants drying up inside of the mechanics of the locks they could seize. When inserting the key the pins are not properly moving in to place to allow the tumbler assembly to turn. Try using some silicon lubrication. Spray in to the lock. Work the key in and out of the lock a few dozen times before attempting to turn. Then spray in some graphite lock lubricant. Insert the key in and out a number of times. Then tap on the key end with something hard like a pliers or something not to heavy or forceful. Then try turning the key. Jiggle it a bit and moving it in and out. Eventually the pins should normally release and position themselves. If all of the above does not work, then you will need to get a lock smith to assist. Most likely he will be able to get in to the vehicle so he can remove the locks to service them.

that is strange these radios are problematic lots of questions on the internet how to solve it no resolutions this may not work have you got the code try a reset

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YK7wpw_pXg Hope this helps

When there's a short in the battery which means the battery is bad it'll trigger the battery light. Hope this helps.

With the engine off see if the shift between 1st to 2nd feel,s free if not it could be the cable check the clutch is disengageing all the way it should go into reverse without crunching,other then that it could be a synchro ring worn check that the gearbox has the right oil in it.

may be a factory setting do u use all of the controls on the panel for air, etc?

before you replace anything else, scan the engine for trouble codes if you have no codes present (not likely) check for fuel pressure and exhaust flow

Hi, Not knowing the history of the car, it could be a number of a few things, 1) Try spraying a lubricant ,eg, Innox, WD 40, or something similar, When the lock mechanism is manufactured it is filled with a medium to heavy weight grease, Thats fine ,however if the car is used off paved roads ( dirt/gravel) the dust is drawn to all the trunk ( we call them 'the boot" ) in Australia, Therefore the grease attracts the dust making it hard and can make the lock stick open, with a shallow ish' dish,and some kerosene and small old paint brush ,give the lock a thorough clean ,holding the dish underneath so the dirty kero wont mess up your boot carpet, You can take the lock out, but prior to doing this, get yourself a fine marker, (the finer the better, ) and trace around or mark 2 spots on the top, 2 either sides,& also the bottom, most will have thick shims, that once the lock is removed can be a real pain in the back side the get them back into position, Its not impossible, but just keep that in mind, some other models have fixed shims, . That why if it isn't nessesary, leave it on there, and use kero to clean it, Once its clean, blow it out with compressed air, repeat this until all the crap particals are gone, or close enough to it,, give it another quick squirt of WD40,Or sim, then apply a good finger full of a water proof grease, 2), Try to close the boot, & and with any luck, the latch in the lock will now be free and activate and the lock finger will spring out and mesh with the keeper3) if still not working loosen the 2 / 4 studs (bolts) , remembering to mark around the outter shape of the latch retainer, loosen just enough so you can tap it around with a nylon headed hammer, ( brass will do the same thing), & tap in across or back or forth, and then try closing the boot, Once you have found a happy medium and the boot is opening 10/10, tighten all bolts you have loosened, There are a number of reason, eg, the car my have been rear ended at some stage of the cars life, the wife trying the close the boot while tryng to get a table home she has purchased from a garage sale, and after repeated slamming until the boot closes, it buckles the hinges ,the boot itself, ....So give these couple of thing a try 1st .. If the lock it broken you can get them from the auto dismantlers, ( auto wreckers) , but make sure they have the key for it, Unless you want to entirely rely on the remote boot opener from key fob, or a cable .. That will give you something to think about, Hope this has been some help,Regards K1PA68

Codes are C1201 brake boost sensor circuit range/performance

P0793 Toyota - Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor 'A' Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p0793_toyota.html#ixzz3WBaGWK7z P0793 Toyota Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor