20 Most Recent 1998 Honda Civic LX - Page 7 Questions & Answers

dash HVAC heater fails. well there are only 2 causes. (macro viewed) engine bay or cab failures. engine is not hot 180F up. thermostat bad. we scan the PCM see PID data ECT is 150f and bingo bad stat. if stuck there. it is bad. end store and simple fix. new stat. all fuses checked for good. next is cause #2 cab parts failing in dash. heater box.

1. blower dead on high you never said it works/?
2. blend door struck on cold. bad damper hinge stuck or
3. bad blend door actuator motor dead.
4. dash controls bad.

there is a test for each case covered in the service manual, buy one>?

Do you mean the Crankshaft Position Sensor? https://www.google.com/search?q=1997+Honda+LX+Accord.crankshaft+position+sensor+wiring+diagram ..

not told does engine crank fast. keyed to crank.???? yes / no . if not say that first. the starter motor in a car is the best battery tester there is. so is starter dead./???????????? the IMMO on 90%of cars cuts fuel dead onlyl. on the 10% it cuts starter and fuel both dead many allow engine to run for 1 to10 seconds and stalls the IMMo can not be hacked, and is its A#1 top designed purpose to do that, to stop thieves dead. and works. all new cars have it and is mostly now mandated by laws. this car I think cranks if key is bad. but will not start all cars came with it new 2 new keys,working lost the 2nd.? we spend a huge amount of time here reading users guides to people lost. the manual is free to read. at any time , im reading yours now google found it is 1second flat and 1st hit. my posts are for USA cars only, nothing else ever. unless they beg, LOL the immo lamp is in the hot cold, fuel gauge port if the IP cluster i see a KEY icon there.it says read page 67 so I do. "This indicator comes on for a few seconds when you turn the ignition switch ON (II). It will then go off if you have inserted a properly-coded ignition key. If it is not a properly- coded key, the indicator will blink and the engine will not start (see page 81" shows 2 immo keys and 1 valet key new "If an improperly- coded key (or other device) is used, the engine's fuel system is disabled When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the Immobilizer System indicator should come on for a few seconds, then go out. If the indicator starts to blink, it means the system does not recognize the coding of the key. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), remove the key, reinsert it, and turn the switch to ON (II) again." do not have other immo keys near the ignition switch just 1 honda immo only, not even other cars IMMO keys.near, (as the manual said) and is true. or the keys go to a loggerheads war (radio signals clash) free guide https://www.manualslib.com/manual/832826/Honda-2003-Civic.html?page=81#manual

"All Honda engines are Interference except 3.0L & 3.2 which are Non-Interference."( but does not cover year 1990,) so is lie. (all means modern, not 1990) not told which 2.0L is there VIN or country. the names of gen3 car engines is here. IN USA (are you) we had the SOHC and DOHC engines. both,(options) they year some are. in Gas world, DOHC are mostly interference. there exceptions B20A/B20A1 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 160/143 PS (Japan/Europe) B20A3 - 2.0L SOHC 12v carb 104 hp North America B20A4 - 2.0L SOHC 12v carb 114 PS (84 kW)Global, except North America B20A5 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 135 hp (101 kW) North America (interference engine) B20A6 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 142 PS (104 kW) Oceania B20A7 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 150 PS (110 kW) Europe, New Zealand B20A8 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 133 PS (98 kW) Europe B20A9 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 140 PS (103 kW) Europe B21A - 2.1L DOHC PGM-FI 145 PS (107 kW) Japan (SI States) B21A1 - 2.1L DOHC PGM-FI 140 hp (104 kW) North America the truth is, we put on a new belt and do leak down test. if fails look for bent valves. NO belt there test. or super brave and by HAND only put crank and TDC mark 0 zero. at damper pulley edge scale turn the cam cog wheel (cam) by hand, with socket wrench feel of valves hit. ( all interference engines will) VVT on newer car is more complex answer but not here. there is always luck. belt slips a bit , retardds the cam and stalls before it hits. luck happens, like walking a cross a city street blind folded, I say why even ask, just do it. most DOHC engines with 10:1 compression ratio are interference, but if is the turbo version those are not. mostly, (vast engines types exist, and nobody knows that it seems) if you watch a 4cycle engine simulator see how the piston chases the exhaust valve closed the piston wins, on some engines it bends it. some engines with notched piston tops are free running engine. also honda's this old had the B20B swap put in. only you can read engine serials. b20b is interference. Do I have to say do not crank any engine for sure on any DOHC if the belt fails.(slips or snaps) do a leak down test. not cranking, my mazda mx5 had 1.8 Liter, free running, engine but was turbo version but no turbo fitted new. had low natural compression . see? One guy had DOHC engine and the PO wrecked the DOHC head and put on the SOHC head. (FREE RUNS) 33 YEARS OLD THINGS HAPPEN

no info generic answer you can at least give more info as to ---steering jerking--vehicle lurching while driving --stopping--turning ------engine---automatic--explain jerking-- and you should be able to get an answer that can help you

. There may be a problem with the ignition system or the fuel system. Have the car checked by a qualified mechanic.

Based on the information you provided, it seems that there may be a problem with the wiring or the connections in the car's electrical system. It is possible that the issue started when the license plate bulb was replaced, but it is difficult to say for certain without further investigation. Here are a few suggestions for troubleshooting the problem: Check the fuses: Start by checking the fuse box to see if any of the fuses related to the brake lights, reverse lights, or tail lights are blown. If you find any blown fuses, replace them and see if that resolves the issue. Inspect the wiring: Look for any visible signs of damage or wear to the wiring that connects to the brake lights, reverse lights, or tail lights. If you find any issues, such as frayed wires or loose connections, try repairing them to see if that resolves the problem. Check the bulbs: Make sure that all of the bulbs are the correct type and are installed properly. If any of the bulbs are burned out or not installed correctly, replace them and see if that fixes the issue. Take the car to a mechanic: If you are unable to troubleshoot the issue on your own, take the car to a reputable mechanic who can diagnose and repair the problem. Overall, it is important to address any issues with the car's brake lights, reverse lights, or tail lights as soon as possible to ensure that the car is safe to drive.

bad fuel now carb is clogged and filter.

You need a good auto-electrician to diagnose and fix that lot! What the P2422 code means. The P2422 diagnostic trouble code is an indication that the vent valve of the evaporative emissions control system (EVAP) is stuck closed. The EVAP system reduces harmful pollutants, generated by the engine combustion process, from being expelled into the environment.P2422 OBD-II Trouble Code: Evaporative Emissions Control ... https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/-p2422-obd-ii-trouble-code-evaporative-emissions-control-system-evap-vent-valve-stuck-closed-by-jamahl-walker#:~:text=What%20the%20P2422%20code%20means,being%20expelled%20into%20the%20environment. P0651 HONDA Code - Sensor Reference Voltage 'B' Circuit ... https://www.engine-codes.com > p0651_honda'P0651 HONDA code possible causes · Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) · ECM harness is open or shorted · ECM circuit poor electrical connection · Shorted sensor on ... https://www.engine-codes.com/p0651_honda.html P1454 HONDA Code Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Range ... https://www.autocodes.com > p1454_hondaOct 9, 2016 - 'P1454 HONDA code possible causes · Faulty Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor · Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor harness is open or shorted · Fuel Tank ... https://www.autocodes.com/p1454_honda.html The P2127 code means that the throttle or pedal position sensor switch E has a low input. The pedal position sensor is a sensor found on the gas pedal. The sensor tells the ECU when the gas pedal is depressed and how far it is depressed.

P2127 OBD-II Trouble Code: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor ...

The P2138 trouble code indicates that the Engine Control Module has detected a malfunction within the D and/or E circuits of the throttle position sensor.

P2138 OBD-II Trouble Code: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor ...

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Repositioning a carburetor on a 1996 Honda Accord V6 may involve a few steps. Here is a general guide on how to reposition a carburetor on a Honda Accord V6:

1. Disconnect the battery: Before you begin any work, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery to avoid electrical shock or damage to the electrical system.
2. Locate the carburetor: The carburetor is usually located on top of the engine and is connected to the air intake system.
3. Remove the air intake system: To access the carburetor, you may need to remove the air intake system that connects the carburetor to the air filter box.
4. Disconnect the fuel line: Once you have access to the carburetor, disconnect the fuel line that connects to the carburetor.
5. Disconnect the throttle cable: The throttle cable is usually connected to the carburetor and controls the throttle valve. Disconnect the throttle cable from the carburetor.
6. Remove the carburetor mounting bolts: The carburetor is usually mounted on the engine using bolts. Remove the mounting bolts that secure the carburetor to the engine.
7. Reposition the carburetor: Once the carburetor is loose, you can reposition it to your desired location. Make sure it is level and aligned with the other engine components.
8. Reinstall the carburetor: After repositioning the carburetor, reinstall it in the reverse order of the steps above. Tighten the mounting bolts, reconnect the throttle cable and fuel line, and reattach the air intake system.
9. Reconnect the battery: Finally, reconnect the battery and start the engine to check that the carburetor is working properly.

Note: If you are not experienced in car mechanics, it is recommended to seek professional help from a certified mechanic.

There are several potential causes for this issue. The most common is a faulty AC switch or a blown fuse. You should check the fuse first, and if it is blown, replace it. If the fuse is not the cause, you will need to check the AC switch, which may just need to be cleaned or replaced. In some cases, the issue may be caused by a bad AC compressor or air handler. You will need to have the vehicle diagnosed to find the exact cause.

Before installing a performance chip on your Honda Odyssey, it is important to understand the risks and potential consequences. Some chips may not be compatible with your vehicle, and installing a chip can potentially damage your engine or void your warranty. If you still decide to install a performance chip, here are some general steps:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent any electrical surges or other issues.
2. Locate the ECU (engine control unit) in your Honda Odyssey. This is typically found under the dashboard or near the engine compartment.
3. Remove the ECU cover to access the wiring harness. Be careful not to damage any of the wiring or connectors.
4. Locate the wires that correspond to the performance chip. These will typically be labeled in the chip's installation instructions or manual.
5. Connect the chip to the appropriate wires in the wiring harness. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully and make sure all connections are secure.
6. Reinstall the ECU cover and reconnect the negative battery cable.
7. Test the chip to make sure it is working properly. Some chips may require additional adjustments or programming to function correctly.

It is important to note that installing a performance chip can be complex and may require professional installation or assistance. Be sure to research the specific chip you plan to install and consult with a mechanic or automotive expert if you have any questions or concerns.

radio license lost? in the users guide read chapter radio see page words how get my radio lic, code what does it do>? or scan the PCM it tells you why. check fuses. radio./audio/sound /nav

ask them only they know how to hack cars. google Innovation performance chip maker find them and ask only them. this hack makes the MAP sensor lie and burn more fuel ! and is silly as can be.. and is a lie, more fuel is never needed. here. the MAP sensor detects driver doing WOT,and ECU goes open loop and sets a new fuel table to 14:1 air fuel ratio rich or even 12:1 on all cars USA 1988 up EFI, all do, WOT. they sell the chip to make money nothing ease. so there is no power gained just black tip spark plugs same thing as you move the throttle fast down the ecu goes to open loop and sets rich burn power mode. going richer from stock is just wasting expensive fuel. the only exception is bigger engine or turbo added. just leave the car stock so others can fix it when it breaks. why fool your service tech, he will not want to touch a hacked car or charges you 3 times the rate to do so. and is SAVVY . also if you go too rich the CAT burns up . oops price one of those?

The knock sensor on a 2003 Honda CRV is located on the engine block. Specifically, it is located under the intake manifold, which means it can be difficult to access. Here are the steps to locate and replace the knock sensor on a 2003 Honda CRV:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent electrical shock.
2. Remove the intake manifold. This involves removing several bolts and electrical connections.
3. Locate the knock sensor, which is located near the rear of the engine block, under the intake manifold.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor.
5. Remove the sensor from the engine block. This may require a special tool, depending on the specific design of the sensor.
6. Install the new knock sensor, making sure it is properly aligned and tightened to the correct torque specification.
7. Reconnect the electrical connector to the sensor.
8. Reinstall the intake manifold, making sure all bolts and electrical connections are properly secured.
9. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Note that if you are not experienced with working on engines or are unsure of how to proceed, it may be best to seek the assistance of a qualified mechanic to replace the knock sensor on your 2003 Honda CRV.

it is inside the transmission THERE ARE 5 4WD SHIFT ON THE FLY. THEY ARE PART OF TRANNY VALVE BODY,VBSO THE QUESTION REALLY IS HOW TO REACH VB (DEEP INSIDE)just read the manualOR ASK HONDA , AMAZING NO, THEY SELL PARThttps://www.hondapartscenter.com/p/Honda_2000_Passport/SOLENOID-ASSY--SHIFT-KEIHIN/50668670/28200-P4R-003.htmlhttps://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

The torque specification for the cylinder valve cover stud/bolt on a 2007 Honda Accord 2.4L VTi is 7.2-8.1 lb-ft (10-11 Nm). As for replacing the broken stud, it depends on how the broken stud is located and the extent of the damage. If the broken stud is easy to access, it may be a simple matter of unscrewing the old one and putting a new one in with the correct torque specification. However, if the broken stud is difficult to access or if it has caused damage to the threads, it may require a more complex repair. In some cases, it may be necessary to drill out the old stud and tap new threads or to use a helicoil insert to repair the damaged threads. It's important to note that over-tightening the valve cover bolts/studs can lead to damage or deformation of the valve cover or gasket, and under-tightening can lead to oil leaks. So, it's crucial to torque the bolts/studs to the specified torque value.

where did you get code --if from 3rd party possible wrong code --notify dealer with vin and proof of ownership

Replacing the tailgate lock on a Honda Jazz 2014 involves several steps. Here's a general outline of the process:

1. Open the tailgate: Begin by opening the tailgate and locating the lock mechanism.
2. Remove the trim panel: You will need to remove the trim panel that covers the tailgate lock mechanism. This may require the use of a trim tool or a screwdriver, depending on the exact model of your Honda Jazz.
3. Disconnect the electrical connections: After removing the trim panel, you will need to disconnect any electrical connections that are attached to the lock mechanism. This will likely involve disconnecting the wires from the tailgate lock switch.
4. Remove the old lock mechanism: Next, you will need to remove the old lock mechanism. This may require the use of a socket wrench or pliers, depending on the type of mechanism that is installed.
5. Install the new lock mechanism: Once the old lock mechanism has been removed, you can install the new one. Make sure that the mechanism is securely fastened and that all electrical connections are properly reattached.
6. Reinstall the trim panel: Finally, reinstall the trim panel that covers the lock mechanism.

It is important to note that this process can vary depending on the exact model of your Honda Jazz, so it is always a good idea to consult your owner's manual or a professional mechanic for specific instructions and guidance. Additionally, it is recommended that you wear protective gloves and safety glasses when working on the tailgate lock to avoid injury.