limited info generic answer use a multi-meter to test and check power -fuses ,relays,switches,wiring ---use an a/c gauge to test for pressure since it runs when [hot wired] possible no or low freon and low pressure safety wont let it run
OdometerGears.com has the gears you need to repair your odometer. E20=20 tooth gear and a 16 tooth medium pod The two gears together are $54.00 including the shipping. it is best to replace the gears as a set if you never want the odometer to fail again.
The ideal idle RPM (revolutions per minute) for a 1990 Plymouth Acclaim V6 LX with an automatic transmission can vary slightly depending on factors like engine condition and specific adjustments. However, a common range for idle RPM is around 600 to 800 RPM when the car is in gear and stopped. It's always best to consult the vehicle's manual or reach out to a qualified mechanic for precise information tailored to your car's specifications.
Check the EGR valve. May have a vacuum leak of may be dirty. Use some throttle body cleaner to clean. Use a toothbrush to get carbon deposits off, The EGR valve itself might need to be replaced. Not a big job any DIY mechanic can handle it.
Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to model category.
There are some ideas here, but who is your mechanic swapping all these parts out? Is your antitheft light on, does it have one? The number 1 reason for no spark is that the antitheft system needs resetting or a sensor has failed.
https://www.google.com/search?q=1991+plymouth+acclaim+no+spark
A mobile auto electrician can connect a pro grade scan tool computer and diagnose in 30 minutes.
https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto+electrician+near+me
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I have a Nissan x-trail with QR20 engine 2005 model.
it's starting but after 20mins it's charting off.
After that it's starting again then drive after 40mins it's charting again.. New camshaft sensor..new crank sensor...new fuel pump new through bokle i need help
Firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4
As far as setting the points, they are to be set when the points are at the highest point on one of the cam lobes, does not matter which one.
As far as the distributor, the rotor only has to point to the plug on the compression stroke, not the exhuast stroke.
The zero mark on the front balancer is for timing the engine for number one cylinder only
If your 1997 Plymouth Breeze 2.0 is not starting and there's no spark, it is likely due to an issue with the ignition system. Here are some possible causes and solutions:
1. Faulty ignition coil: The ignition coil is responsible for supplying spark to the spark plugs. If it's faulty, there will be no spark. A mechanic can test the ignition coil and replace it if necessary.
2. Bad spark plugs: Worn or faulty spark plugs can also prevent the engine from starting. Check the spark plugs for any signs of wear or damage and replace them if needed.
3. Failed crankshaft position sensor: The crankshaft position sensor is responsible for providing the ECU with information about the position of the crankshaft. If it fails, the ECU won't be able to send a signal to the ignition coil to fire. Check the sensor and replace if necessary.
4. Failed ignition switch: If the ignition switch fails, the ECU won't receive the signal to send power to the ignition coil, and there will be no spark. A mechanic can check the ignition switch and replace it if needed.
I suggest taking your car to a qualified mechanic to properly diagnose and fix the issue.
Try the silly, obvious stuff first. Make sure the port on the vehicle is clean and not damaged. Also check the connector and cable for the scanner are not damaged. When you plug it in make sure the connector is all the way in. I had a vehicle where the cable connector was a very tight fit so it didn't connect fully to the OBD2 port.
It was 1996 when OBD2 was made a legal requirement so your vehicle should be OBD2 compatible. If you have access to another scanner try that one. This is to check if it is the tool or the vehicle causing the message. If the second scanner doesn't work it's an issue with the vehicle. If it does work the first scanner needs to be checked.
only if loose.
why not torque it spec, then know yourself the answer>>?
Where did you see timing off, doing what with what or how?spark timig
or a new cam chain
or getting CKP sensor errors?
GV = Grand Voyager, sure, 3.3L sure V6 , the baby brother to my Jeep V6, 3.8L
Heads up the car has computer brain cluster. CCD bus networked
The speedo only works if the cluster tells it the live data from PCM
or fuses top cluster not blown (JB Fuse 2 not blown) or tranny VSS sensor is dead. (veh,speed, sensor) sorry no VSS ever killed any engine,!speed is MPH. live.
the car is old, and most cars that old have lots of hard failures
and were ignored, until the day of TOO MANY HAPPEN.
like the the adage, "the straw that broke the camels back" relived.
first off , my answers are USA only, except above.
1996 is the EPA year of new OBD2 PCM the runs the engine.
that means any scan tool here ,EVER MADE, works here.
16pin under dash OBD2 DLC jack
check all fuse first. cab and engine bay, all means ALL.
there are 50- causes of cranks but no starts. or stalls
I will not go and list 50 bad parts, I will assuME you want to do tests. and will even buy tools (meters and gauges) to do so.????
most folks posting here only want guesses from the blind. sadly./
and to scan the PCM first (next after fuses checked) ok?
there are 3 game plans besides sell it dead.
1: do the tests
2: get shop to do it.
3: OR GUESS AND GO BROKE,
ONLY YOU KNOW YOUR GAME PLAN , AND NOT TOLD YET
In a real shop that loves his customers.
they will do the tests, and even do extra tests.
what if the tech run a full compression test and told you it fails.
or is near failing and will fain soon after he fixed that caused this engine dead now>>??? see how that works? He is your friend
(as in gee the repairs are over the value of the car now, dead)
$3700 running used and far less not. $1500?(econ 101 decisions)
Lets DO IT:
now the tests using tools. (100 years the same )
1: the compression test must pass over 150psi
the readings are done WOT, spark out and fully charged battery
wide open throttle , the readings are based 2 factors.
WOT wide open throttle or close. MUST HAVE AIR TO COMPRESS , the engine is and AIR PUMP.
varies,(engine good) by the CR of the engine, (compression ratio)
and the ALTITUDE, (if under 500 feet) we know what it reads for sure. a LEAK down test tool , is great too ,got shop Air?
I have all 3. and do both tools but on all DOHC engine I do only leak down. and off topic here.
so if that old engine (no miles told) is good??????
what comes next. if scan tool told you spark is dead it is.
we test spark on all 6 not just 1.
are the spark plus 27 years old "OOPS
and last if fueling test. did the scans show a shorted injector?
fuel pressure is tested and most cars this old the FPR is no god
fuel pressure regulator(oops in the tank at pump , sadly)
MOST PERSONS CRYING COMPRESSION TESTS ARE NO GOOD
NEVER EVER DID IT THE CORRECT WAY OR
DID NOT COMPENSATE FOR ALTITUDE IN DENVER. CO.
ASK HOW, DO KNOW HOW.
NO THE LEAK TEST AND THE COMPRESSION TEST WILL
NOT FIND A BAD CAM LOBE. 1/2 GONE. SORRY WILL NOT!
IF FINDS BAD RINGS AND VALVES BENT/STUCK/OR BURNED, OR STUCK AND WARPED HEADS. valve spring broken happens
THE CYLINDER TO CYLINDER EQUALITY TEST IS SUPER GOOD. AS THE SHOP MANUAL STATED!
checking fuel pressure to spec, is last .
now watch scotty do the tests. (hoping engine is good,he IS)
watch him, the tests are simple and if lucky ,bingo.
https://youtu.be/064Ilsz8Fzg
my 3.8L does180 psi on all 6,near the same 90k on the clock
150 is good point ,,never 90.
shifter to tranny cable shift linkage is bad.not sure that skim thing me.kinda do. if car will not go to park and car is on flat groundthe links are bad.now getting out of park is a whole other matterand is park lockout failing if that. stuck in park'the car needs service, said my friend .get some?
we can not see you shift.
PRNDL , car will crank in N and P, both.
park lockout is safety feature.
all fuses good.
battery charged (under hood)'
brake lamps most work.
sure likeage can fail for sure. they told you the truth.
park lock out locks it in to park
and can not be shift out until brake applied and brakes glow. rear (brake fuse not blown)
then if did shift out of park and not lever is dead
that means the linkages is bad.\
NO it will start in Neutral. all cars do but the most rare of odd honda's
fly past neutral means cable is broke me but cant feel your shifter lever.
the shifter has 2 ends of linkages, top side and under car. to trans.
removing the PRNDL switch means engine can never crank again, P/N now dead.
my guess is this is cave man simple bad linkage.
a simple lever device, and link
Camshaft Position B - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)
codes are OBDll and are available online free
Google P025
copy and paste
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0025-obd-ii-trouble-code-camshaft-position-b-timing-over-retarded-bank-2-by-jay-safford
Remove the cowling that the windshield wipers go through. This piece is removable. On my ford the wiper motor comes off with the cowling. This is the trick.
