How to replace a fan belt without a diagram

DO IT YOURSELF... It IS fiddly but perfectly do-able.. easiest way to do it is to remove plastic 'dirt shield' from driver's side inner wing (next to drive shaft and brake line) obviously wheel removed, or rotated is ok.. removal of modern plastic 'tat' is simple (area of cylinder head) allowing as much finger access as possible..not much room down the side of these puppies!! Next you need to de-tension the 'serpentine' belt BUT I WOULD RECOMEND DRAWING BELT & PULLEY SET UP FIRST or taking several photos.. as a reminder of if belt goes over or under (makes sense when you see it) Use blunt engineer's screwdriver (or any blunt long driver, rod, etc) to help push and pull old and new belt about.. REMEMBER TO RE-TENSION THE TENSIONING PULLEY...BUT DONT OVER DO IT!! THE BELT WILL TIGHTEN EVEN MORE AFTER SHORT RUN IN.. ALLOW SLIGHT DEFLECTION.. 6 to 10mm should do... cleanliness is the key really, as with all engine jobs(!) Allow 2hrs to do... if you've never done before... ok?

the belt on your car is automatically tensioned bu a self adjusting automatic tensioner....if there is slack in the belt either the belt is shot, or the tensioner is bad...try a new belt first.

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You can do it. If it takes longer than 10 minutes something is wrong. If its a V8 make sure the tensioner is good, Fan belts rarely just "break" so check all the pulleys.

this is so simple ,first draw a diagram ??so you dont forget evan i draw a diagram because if you go for coffee or a smoke you forget it ,trust me on this .Then look for the idler pulley and put a 17mm spanner on the nut in the middle and de- tension it ,and slip the belt off

On the 1999 Dakota with the 3.9liter, the fan shroud absolutely DOES NOT have to be removed. Very simple job. Simply use a breaker bar with a 15mm socket on the belt tesioner pulley nut. Using the breaker bar push (as though tightening) the pulley nut...the reaction will be that the tensioner removes tension from the pulley and the entire belt can be removed by easily slipping it toward the front of the vehicle...comes right off. The new belt can go back on in exactly the same manner. By the way the belt routing diagram IS CONVIENENTLY LOCATED between the hood latch and the radiator mounting for simple and quick refernce...one person job, I did removal and installation four times in less than 10 minutes. (why four times? The auto parts store was selling replacement belts that were too long and did not allow the belt tensioner to provide suffiecient tension...I had to try four different manufacturers before the tensioner was adequately tight with room to grow as the belt naturally stretches from use.). I found no stringing around the fan is required because of the way the belt is routed (it doglegs around the main engine pulley which is centered below the fanhousing and then the belt runs from there to the left side of the fan housing...avoiding the fan/fanhousing all-together (sure you can try to go past the fan/fan housing if you so desire...but you dont have to...and besides the space between the pulleys and the fan is ample to allow the belt to pass between with minimal interference or a simple rotation of the fan as you attempt this method. One hint that made my installs easy as pie...the last pulley you put it over should not be a bezeled and ridged pulley or you will needlessly make life difficult for yourself...the last pulley should be the water pump pulley which is a smooth bore and non-ridged pulley (makes you wonder how the belt even stays on it!)...making it easy as pie to slip it right over...as your last act of defiance to that mean old serpentine belt!