Your best hope is to go to or phone your nearest suzuki dealer so you get the EXACT sized one or really good auto parts centre/. friend.
Both Ebay uk and USA seem to only have the Land Rover ones.
old post, but Ill answer this , as it seems most forums give bad advice. on this topic.
answer,. read the FSM , or alldata.com or suzuki pit stop plus
it shows 6 tests.
this car came with 2 diff. engines, G16b and J18.
and the tests are simular but data is different.
here are the tests in the FSM.
1: cranking pressure. 35 to 40 psi. this is a guess. no engine stated, so no real numbers... answered. only a guess.
2: running pressure (vac. drops it) drop about 6PSI running.
we now test the FPregular for proper reg. at 3 vacuum points. (a hand vacuum tool)
3: the shut test.
4: the leak down test.
5: the 4 tests for INJECTOR leak down tests. 1 by 1>
its really 8 tests.
now the shade tree test
fuel dont leak from rail, fitting cracked, cranking , pump dead
or lost 12vdc to pump cranking.
that be it, with no gauge. must DIY fail here if the fitting dribbles.
as dribble tests dont tell you if pressure is correct.
a carb can run on 0.1psi or gravity , only
but on EFI it takes, 28psi, min. (injectors makers rule , no mine)
putting gas where?
gas tank
or doing the Test fuel procedures?
is this a barn find/ field found car, or it ran perfect last week, and DD for months. (daily driver?) all this maters and is unstated.
1.6L or 1.8L engine, G16 or J18 suzuki enignes? major different they are.
with old engines, we do this and win every time.
all FUSES good, (EFI and spark fuses up to 3 or more)
1: compression test, sparks out , wide open throttle. warm to hot engine.
180psi on all,, good, if like 90, the timing belt slipped. if J18. we have
3 folks now on our forum that managed to slip a chain (they ingored huge noises from engine,,,, amazing)
2: spark got good on all 4 cylinders. and timed right not guessed at
using a real tool called a timing light for 20 bucks.
3: with fuel pump relay pulled i test engine on test fuel.
runs for 3 seconds, each spray and SOUNDS good.
ok it does that.. (this avoids flooding issues)
4: i put back the fuel pump relay.
and it dont start. i check for injection,
i find all injectors, dead.
the ECU is cutting injection,
i connect scan tool and see the CKP DTC errors , the CKP is dead
or CMP on G16. dead. the ECU reports them cranking only, on a dead engine.
the ECU will cut fuel if it seen spark dead.
the ECU will cut fuel if the TPS sensors signals wide open throttle cranking
i checked all that and its good.
i find fuel pressure a 0 , cranking, (one more cheap tool)
i find 12vdc good to pump cranking (a 10 buck meter at walfart)
the pump is bad. no the wires are corroded. at the pump line....
super common on old cars.
this is 1 example path of 100s.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
the pump is fuel cooled and fuel lubricated.
lacking fuel it can wreck a good pump, if key is left on.
or cranked for long times, with no fuel
the operators guide warns all drivers of this fact.
make sure you have 12v to pump cranking
yes, the open (crack a fitting there) the fuel rail and crank, no fueL?
then bad pump.
if you see fuel that dont mean it can run like the OLDEN days carbs
it takes over 28PSI (or as the FSM STATES) pressure for injectors to even work.
sure that feed is SHORTED.
the fuse, saves the FIRE , if there was no fuse at all. boom.
same with home, cars, trains or air craft. all the same. this.
using a higher fuse is dumb. sorry, but why risk fire.? or
very very expensive harness damage , why?.
what do you what, 101 class on shorts? You got it.
sure, we have a great video showing the magic of ammeters.
see Duanes fine video link here.
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/blows-fuse.html
if all this is greek , find any ASE mech, he knows.
probably a bad pressure switch, either the low pressure switch is stuck open, or the high pressure switch is stuck closed. The low pressure is fairly common and easy to test with a jumper wire.
You can try some starting fluid sprayed inside the air cleaner box.
An engine needs 4 basic elements air, gas, spark and compression.
It is a good idea to test for all 4.
