which engine, we cant guess it.some are diesel and have no spark plugs.x2, some engines have distributors if yes, the high voltage spark wires, clearly go to the spark plugs.on newer gas engines, they have coil pack oreven COPS. coil over plugs. and those must come off to reach the spark plugs.some cars have coil pack, see those HV wires, same dealthere, covered all classes of engine. one post.dizzycoil pack 1 or 2.COPS2001 line up1.3 L M13A I4 (petrol)1.5 L M15A I4 (petrol)1.3 L I4 (diesel)case in point M15see this photosee these, its a mix of coil packs and cops.called wasted spark cops.they fire on pairs with wasted spark setup.1 and 4 fire together, as clearly seen above.the HV sides are wired in SERIES to do that magic.nexg time post country and real engine name.we cant guess, either. here, on the WWW !
the operators guide is clear. CEL on , get car serviced. (at a real ASE service shop)or if savvy DIY person?, scan it your self.?with a thing called a scan tool.(barrow, beg ,rent or buy) avoid the zone. what does SHORT mean.lamp flashes short.blowing fuse due to an electrical SHORT?which fuse.post more symptoms, the above is not clear.
swift or swift+? (USA or not in USA>? as swifts vary by COUNTRY)
some cars have fuses. others have circuit breakers.
the latter work better in ICE and when the motor overloads for the same. (engineering details)
some have cars have a simple setup.
just a CB and wire and a switch
other have (2007 may) BCM controls (computer brain box now)
that controls all things in the BODY, the body control module.
this case. we scan the PCM first to see if the BCM is unhappy.
and get ERROR Codes, if unhappy.
if car still has the simple system. only a volt meter is needed to find the cause.
if its BCM controls ,lots more, ask?
here is the wiki on swifts.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_Swift
see all those countries, they are not all wired the same.
not at all.
so.... be the 3 person EVER to say the country, and blow our socks off.
First, you MUST disconnect the negative cable from the battery terminal, otherwise it is highly likely you will shock your self. Next you need to locate the alternator on your Swift (mine, a 1995, was on the top left, down below the carbuerator).
Disconnect the electrical wires going to the alternator (mine were right next to each other on the inner side, towards the engine, although I have seen them one on top and one on the side). These wires should be recognizable, as one is a plug, normally green in color that should come from the positive battery wire, and the other is the negative which should have a rubber cap over it. Take off the cap and unscrew the holding bolt, which should loosen the wire.
Once that's done, you need to remove all the bolts holding the alternator to the frame. There should really only be two, the adjustment bolt on the top (used to adjust the tension in the alternator belt) and one on the bottom (you'll have to raise the car to get this one) its either a bolt on oneside (rare) or a bolt that goes all the way through with nuts on both ends (more common). You're view may be obscured by a shielding piece that keeps rocks and other things you run over from flying into or through your alternator. You can easily remove the two screws in the bottom and one at the top to remove the piece. I highly recommend this because models upto 1998 require this for removal.
Once all that is removed your alternator should be free to move, except for the belt, but slipping that off is pretty self intuitive. Getting it out now is another issue entirely. I've been wrestling with mine for two and a half hours now and am pretty sure I'm going to have to take it out through the top. This step I leave up to you, the only advice I can offer is that the Hayne's guide I have says 1998 and later goes through the bottom.
One other thing that should be noted is that some alternator models (the harder ones to get I assume, since mine was the more common type and this wasn't an issue) don't come with the flywheel attached. For the non-engineers or mechanics out there, that's the big wheel on the side that the belt rotates to generate electricity. Make sure that if your replacement doesn't have this wheel to remove it, as you will assuredly be needing it.
To install simply repeat all the previous steps in reverse.
It looks like the system is working but the signal is not getting to the doors. If you know the supplier of the remote control contact them or the agent to check if the system has a relay which (my best bet is there is one) needs replacing, Otherwise trace your wiring backwards from the door actuators to the sender unit to see where your power is being broken.
some of these are held in place with screws and others snap into place. you will have to look closely to find them. if you don`t find any screws then it probably snaps into place.
wow, the car came with 2 key /FOB.
lost the other one?
i can see you didnt read the manual.
it tells you the rules for this, (DIY rule)
many cars you must have 2 keys good to get a 3 working, DIY.
did you google how to buy the key?
then read the free how to papers on said key,"there"
it answers that question too. if you just read it.
the rules vary by all cars, all years.
my car takes 2 keys to get third, unless you break rule 2
8 keys max.
is this USA car? this is USA forum so if you fail to say country
we tell you USA rules and we lie.
but that dont stop 99.9% of posters asking for more lies.
SIGH.
well gee, no symptoms posted. nor year swift nor country..
gee 2, do both fobs fail? (car came with 2, so..... )
did you scan it to see the DTC errors? only if both fobs failed.
(scan tools all work, and can be rented with dead car)
there is no code, sorry, it's not a radio./ nav sys.
asked now 1000 times.
1million on google
why ask this.....???
here we go..... 1001 th answer.
1: dealer time.
2: car related lock smith house calls. $$$$ and make a new fob.
3: tow it to any shops. ASE they will fix it.
belts squeal for only 2 reason
it's bad. the belt.
or the accessorym it drives is Seized.
i guess you never head of a 5buck stethoscope
and listen to the accessory bearings, ah, alternator front and rear
i hear, front crying for help. easy as child play.
sold everywhere cars parts are sold.
there is no need to guess, , answer use tools.
this was true in 1920 and now, belts then and now all can squeal.
in the old days we had many belts and could drop them
then comes, SERP belts. one for all.
we dont have 1.3 swifts here, so cant see belt routing.
http://www.fixkick.com/tools/steth1.jpg
double posted. ok.
what is a done/?
the radio if 100% dead, no signs of life at all, is a fuse
i bet the dial glows. headlights on or in park.
fuses that look bad ARE, Those that look good, many be bad too.
the can fail with hair line cracks, and some clone fuses rust.
so.... we use this magic $10 tool to measure voltage
on both pins of the fuse, called Radio. 12vdc on both sides.
0v is bad fuse. (rubber meets the road test )
if that simple test passes, we then move to the radio. wires.
is it plugged in? reset it? yet.
is radio ground wires good. not fell off.
got 12vdc to the radio hot wire, (not dial lamp).
if you have 12vdc there, the radio is toast...... (in the mil is was that radio man (ET).
blown fuse. ; is first, as per always.
2nd is scan it, did you scan it yet? that is always 2nd.
all efi engines, all ECU , all cut injectors for (noid lamp test dead?)
you said pulse,does that mean fuel pulse or electronic pulse to injector coil..... ? all injectors dead. or just 1. same for spark.
toss coin land, noid dead. all noids
loss of. NOID signals.!
1; spark
2: lose of CMP or CKP signals (cam or crank senders)
3: ecu sees wide open throttle it cuts fuel 100%
4: ecu bad, is CEL lamp dead key on? scan it.
sure lynne
what engine, there are 7 swift engines.
locked, does that mean you spun engine by hand, ? nah....
ahh, the immobilizer. is set. the suzuki some have that.
and that means it will crank ok, but will not start.
the anti-theft IMMO cuts fuel so thieves cant steal it.
the operators manual is clear on this, lost it?
did you try both keys yet, car came with 2, try both.
if both fail check fuses. next
have the computer checked for codes and data, it could be losing a reference pulse shutting down the system, either the sensor has an intermitant problem or it has become a temperature sensitive problem with the sensor or electrical connection. it could be a fuel pump problem as well which you have to have checked for pressure and volume.
Gearbox oil can't be checked because it is sealed and needs to be drained out and checked for metal parts if there is damage to the gears. Take your vehicle to an authorised service centre if you suspect it is the gear box. Humming noise may be something else- like less engine oil or a defective AC intake (blocked tray) or some loose vibration.
This should do ya:
paste this link into your browser. It shows exactly where all three marks are... for the cams and crank.
https://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=A0SO80NXBA5VwpMAE1JXNyoA;_ylc=X1MDMjc2NjY3OQRfcgMyBGZyA2NocmYteWZmMzIEZ3ByaWQDMGh4SHZBMU5TRS45SjNIYmhxR2MzQQRuX3JzbHQDMARuX3N1Z2cDNARvcmlnaW4Dc2VhcmNoLnlhaG9vLmNvbQRwb3MDMQRwcXN0cgNzdXp1a2kgc3dpZnQgdGltaW5nIGJlbHQgBHBxc3RybAMyNQRxc3RybAMzNgRxdWVyeQNzdXp1a2kgc3dpZnQgdGltaW5nIGJlbHQgcmVwbGFjZW1lbnQEdF9zdG1wAzE0MjY5ODIzNzY-?p=suzuki+swift+timing+belt+replacement&fr2=sa-gp-search&fr=chrf-yff32&vm=r
they fire on pairs with wasted spark setup.1 and 4 fire together, as clearly seen above.the HV sides are wired in SERIES to do that magic.nexg time post country and real engine name.we cant guess, either. here, on the WWW !
