Suzuki Swift - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 8

nice double post. and still no engine stated, nor country. which engine, 5 engines world wide, this forum is USA forum the enhanced 1.6L VVT? m16 you do know that many suzuki engines the covers and pan are bolted on after a full RTV silicon gasket squirted on . then cured, right? its it he FSM , ever seen a real FSM a real suzuki factory service manual, sold at, "SUZUKI"??? is this what you have, now that you said VVT? In October 2005, Suzuki launched the Sport version of the new Swift in Japan named SwiftRS, and in September 2006 the model was introduced in most European markets. Named "Swift Sport", it is powered by an enhanced M16A unit, a high-revving 1.6-litre, naturally aspirated DOHC VVT four-cylinder engine with an 11.1:1 compression ratio, high lift cams, forged pistons, and strengthened valve springs.

Body control module. Put a scanner on it.

which engine, there are 8 engines. you work on engines not knowing what is there? really?

Sealey makes the specialty tools to lock-out the camshaft(s) and crankshaft so they don't move when you replace the sepentine belt. As long as you have the pins in properly so nothing moves, it's not a big deal. Most mechanics prefer to change the water pump at the same time. It is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED you change the front oil seal on the transmission when you do this job. You will only regret it later if you don't. If you don't want to use the specialty tools, some people use the back end of suitably sized drill bits to insert into the hold to secure them. Here is the Sealey hyperlink: I would look at the kit contents to decide what you want to do first. http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?id=22&method=mVehicleLockingKits

USA answer only "shinning" huh? we can not do noise here, we are blind and deaf. so, find location first. then post questions about that. if the trans making noise. bad that. is it full of ATF fluid per manual.

what is a wet clutch?,. the A/T torque converter the inside transmission wet, clutch packs or the stick shifting master cylinder and slave why not post year, swift, and what system you are working. eg: my car wont move, got that. my RPM tachometer races fast, but car wont go (called slip) or my clutch pedal seems dead. or my A/T CAR., transmission is no working right, say what? we cant guess any of that. just say whats up, fully, please.

Remove the belt and check those parts. Spin them by hand The alternator should spin freely. The PS pump will have more drag on it. Also check the tensioner and idler pulleys. When turning them Feel for roughness. All these should be smooth turning. No bumps or grinding. One of them is going to be tight or rough. The PS pump will move in and out a bit, this is normal.

engine RPM must be near 800 not 400. for all accessories to work , alternator, and P/S and A/C so RPM is first. next is belts must not slip. the engine is running too slow. that is called bad idle controls the PCM controls idle at all times perfectly so its lost control and that is causes by 50 reasons. get it serviced, is what you do. or learn to fix cars. if you didnt notice low RPM then you need to learn that first., low rpm can be cause by 1: never getting a tuneup ever? 2: bad spark. weak or worse dead plugs. 3: bad fuelling, (too lean, or to rich misfiring) 4:bad engine, (50 reason) but can be vacuum leaks or ISC valve stuck closed, or EGR valve stuck open. next time ALT lamp comes on , use your right foot to raise rpm to 800 or more, id bet the alt light goes out, and the P./S pump wakes up.

it needs a tuneup (no year car stated) nor engine there are 8 Swift engines used world wide. scan it, use a scan tool if 1996 and newer and in USA no country stated, so can't really help much. The MIL/SEC/CEL lamp one means, SCAN ME ! no kidding. scan tool vary from $ 5 to $150 (junk to nice)

This is detective work.first place to check is the master unit which can fail due to clogged filter or water ingress.usually found in side boot panel area.if this checks okay.then you need to check each door panel lock to see if air pressure activates lock.you can do this with a syringe body into tube connector of any door and suck or blow air into the tube system.this will reactivate a stuck lock .usually means one or more door cards has to come off.did this on a merc only one door and it fixed the central lock back to working order.

which engine, there are like 6 engines used world wide. and country , this is a USA CALIF forum so if you live in say japan and ask us, you get wrong answers, see why? here is the list of engines used in Gen 2 cars 1.2 L I4 (petrol) 1.3 L M13A I4 (petrol) 1.5 L M15A I4 (petrol) 1.6 L M16A I4 (petrol) 1.3 L I4 (diesel) It was produced in Hungary, India, Japan, Pakistan and by Chang'an Motors in China. some even have FIAT engines, so...... what engine do you have.

Hi Wade I'd be checking motor mounts and tail shaft mount, also muffler and exhaust mounting points and connections.

why not just install the key assemble with old immo ring and turn the key. IMMO light off, end story. no matter what, id never put in the new IMMO as that can make the PCM think you are a theif and brick the PCM. the book explains all this why do you guess? 2001 may match https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Category/3-suzuki-service-manuals.aspx no country stated. so??? suzuki shut down in USA and canada for cars. (not ATVs) so buy parts is hassle and service zero. the book tells you the rules. read it read how to change out the key assembly all steps are clearly stated. and warnings too.

It should be oil....but it is easy to figure out what it may be by its color.obviously fresh oil is amber to brown...dirty oil is almost black. transmission fluid in automatics should be a shade of red. Clutch and brake fluid light yellow.

can you afford a 10 buck walfart meter? DMM volt meter the battery terms clean fuses checked starter dead, no jumper cables for a old car, its like first buy tool if ever there ways. huh> so you cant jumper cable start car. so we measure battery voltage cranking 11v good, hear clank, bad starter, 12.6v no clank is dead starter or dead keyline hot wire key line, it cranks means key line DEAD. try to crank in neutral? yet< A/t trans, this uses new switch contacts, wow it starts.? lower than 10 v cranking is weak battery, no jumper cables, oops;. or shorted starter, or seized engine, can you turn engine by hand. my guess, is all this is too hard. it takes tools to fix cars, some or are dirt cheap today. unlike say in 1970 .... you in the good times.

lots of possibles bad shocks? (dampeners) bad track bars. bushings, get someone that can touch it and see it, and inspect it to find the cause. get is serviced?

the FSM covers this, and alldata.com (USA we are and links) and at suzukipitstopplus (real fsm sold there) posted many times now here, did you search.? i posted every step just this week. here is remove , it , list (not doing all 50 steps. sorry) quote FSM> the process of removing the engine, you will come across a number of steps which call for the removal of a separate component or system, such as "disconnect the exhaust system'' or "remove the radiator.'' In most instances, a detailed removal procedure can be found elsewhere. It is virtually impossible to list each individual wire and hose which must be disconnected. Careful observation and common sense are the best possible approaches to any repair procedure. Removal and installation of the engine can be made easier if you follow these basic points:

• If you have to drain any of the fluids, use a suitable container.
• Always tag any wires or hoses and, if possible, the components they came from before disconnecting them.
• Because there are so many bolts and fasteners involved, store and label the retainers from components separately in muffin pans, jars or coffee cans. This will prevent confusion during installation.
• After unbolting the transmission or transaxle, always make sure it is properly supported.
• If it is necessary to disconnect the air conditioning system, have this service performed by a qualified technician using a recovery/recycling station. If the system does not have to be disconnected, unbolt the compressor and set it aside.
• When unbolting the engine mounts, always make sure the engine is properly supported. When removing the engine, make sure that any lifting devices are properly attached to the engine. It is recommended that if your engine is supplied with lifting hooks, your lifting apparatus be attached to them.
• Lift the engine from its compartment slowly, checking that no hoses, wires or other components are still connected.
• After the engine is clear of the compartment, place it on an engine stand or workbench.
• After the engine has been removed, you can perform a partial or full teardown of the engine, as required.

1. Relieve the fuel system pressure on fuel injected vehicles.
2. Using a scratch awl, scribe the hood hinge-to-hood outline, then, using an assistant remove the hood.
3. Make a note of all radio pre-sets and the radio code.
4. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the cooling system. CAUTION When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a seal-able container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Remove the radiator assembly along with the cooling fan.
6. Disconnect and tag all necessary electrical connections.
7. Disconnect and tag all necessary vacuum lines.
8. Disconnect, tag and plug all necessary fuel lines.
9. Disconnect the heater inlet and outlet hoses.
10. Disconnect the following cables:
    • The accelerator cable from the throttle body or carburetor.
    • The clutch cable from the transaxle (for manual transaxle models).
    • The gear select cable and the oil pressure control cable from the transaxle (for automatic transaxle models).
    • The speedometer cable from the transaxle.
11. Raise and safely support the vehicle safely.
12. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
13. Disconnect the gear shift control shaft and the extension to the transaxle for (manual transaxle models).
14. Drain the engine oil and transaxle oil.
15. Remove the drive axles from the differential side gears of the transaxle. For the engine/transaxle removal, it is not necessary to remove the drive axle from the steering knuckle.
16. Remove the engine rear torque rod bracket from the transaxle (for automatic transaxle models).
17. Lower the vehicle.
18. Install a suitable chain hoist to the lifting device on the engine.
19. Remove the right side engine mounting from its bracket.
20. On vehicles equipped with a automatic transaxle, remove the transaxle rear mounting nut.
21. On vehicles equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the transaxle rear mounting from the body.
22. Remove the transaxle left side mounting bracket.
23. Lift the engine and transaxle assembly out from the vehicle. Separate the transaxle from the engine.

automatic trans right?not stick, both have clutches.!! so you want us to guess leaks.? well is it ATF leaking? or engine oil>?> pink or brown, oil>? finding A/T leaks is no easy task, some seals will fail again if the TC is not swapped out. the seal runs on a metal surface there, and most not be damaged the pump is there and it can leak. finding it is no easy task, and very expensive. find a mech, that will find it clean it all , drive for 5 miles, see leak now? way 1. way2 use dye IR light methods buy the dye kit and put it into the unsaid oil source. ask any mech, on earth to ID that oil, ATF, GL4, or engine oil then add dye to that source, and run engine, and load up trans (A/T) and see it leak and see the dye glow as it does with IR light . $15 kit, to do. try top post next time, what engine you have, and what trans. we cant guess any of that, a swift to me , is a metal cage. what matters here, is what driveline you have (cage gone)

Hi,if you are talking about not picking up the gears properly,yes you are.

wow, no year, posted or country, (this is a usa forum) M13 is a 4 banger so has one sensor until , i the USA the EPA required, 2. in our town ever autostore sells them, you have a town? in the states we look up parts first at rockauto.com and see who makes em. and price. they came in 2 flavors, DIY hand wired, and PNP, plug and play. the later is easy but costs more.