for the whole car, really??
asking for>?
all engine smog hoses for all counties and or states on earth, sorry I pass.
EVAP system front and rear?
BRAKE booster. vac
smog parts are not the same even in USA FED and CALIF are different/
no country told
XL-7 USA?
no engine told
no VIN# told so we see VIN ENGINE CODE
2018,well if in USA there is and ANSWER IN THE SERVICE MANUAL4wd or 2wd, not told XL-7/ usa have you looked first or asking blind here.??????? I look first for sure 2001 year every time. i SEE you are at step 7, hub pulls. learn the last step first this Tighten the nut to 157 ft. lbs. (216 Nm). got 250 ft/lb torque wench, and and muster that force? what I do is use tool called (lacking deep wall sockets past 36mm) a measuring caliper tool, metric to the hex flat faces and go gee its 36mm or what it is. all shops have this tool. in year 2001 suzuki changed hub designs radicallly, UNITIZED HUBS ! 1989 to 2005 year the nuts are not Hex nuts at all and use 2pin tool, custom to only suzuki, 2001 to 2005 GV see part ID #11 this is from the old old suzuki, parts catalogs I have. recap, special tools nobody has or seen on EBAY USEDa locking ring too.and 4mm flat head screws to hold it from slipping CCW2006 up the hubs unbolt from Knuckle. video 2wd only 2002 and is the same,clear as day look and matches my above drawings, (ive done 4 these cars)3 vitar'sa and 1 GV ,not done XL7 but i sure can.the video dude put in back on wrong, did not torque it to 150 to 180ft/lbsnot doing that step is a danger to all. in 1000 miles or less the bearings will be destroyed.!! read it.TIMKEN.com proves that with real testing.(the did the job wrong and measured the damage)those are called CRUSH bearings.if not set to spec torque the bearings beat them selves to DEATHH.a hard cold fact of life. Vitara/grand/sidekicks/trackers, up to 2005)https://youtu.be/Mo7lD4BNdHo?t=91sorry here is no HEX not for this JOB< zeroyes I have seen hacks done on suzuki'sbut no photos posted by you with part ID4 removed.
The main fuse panel is inside the engine compartment. The second fuse box is located under the drivers side of the dashboard. Remove the fuse box cover (if equipped) by pushing in at both ends and pulling off the cover.
hunt # 1000000001
the dealers web site shows that,if you tell it the VIN
Remove the Instrument Panel Lower Brace Bezel.
Disconnect the BCM electrical harnesses.
its not bad but here it is
inputs to it are bad (gee scan it)
or outputs from it are bad. scan it.
Hi,
Please review your suzuki's manual to find all of the locations for small bulbs. It should have diagrams revealing all of these locations. Thank you..
yes heat is always a cause, heat wrecks all things many makes faster (electric)
DRL love to fail is this up in canada, , it is not law USA to have it.
he law here ended 2010 on DRL junk.(proven not to work)
many cars have a DRL module and the pins on it look burnt
and is bad. ALL DRL on suzuki seen by me to 2000 did that
no sure 02
DRL has relays to fail or even hand brakes switch too.
the 2 rules on DLR are
hand brake must turn off and lamps on, no kind of brake failure allowed,
and
no GEN?/ALT/Batteyr lamp failure in cluster
this last bit of logic allows driving further DLR off, and dead alternator in car..
or bad relays. H.L
.
.
.
With my 2007 XL-7, it would reset like the manual said until 30,000 miles. Today I took it to a repair shop to have the oil changed. They wrote the following instructions that reset mine today. 1. Press information button until 'oil life' is displayed. 2. Tap check mark two times and hold it on the third tap. Good luck!!
Hello. The knock sensor is a single wire device fastened to the side of the engine. It looks like a 'plug' with a single 'tab' protruding out of it. A single terminal wire slides onto that 'tab'. That single wire is nearby; somewhere on either side of the engine block where the knock sensor is at. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.
I would like to know the same.i just removed mine because it would not start half the time,and i just put a new battery,alternator,pig tail,and new terminals,and still had the issue of starting half the time,i removed that square with the metal fuse on the positive battery terminal and no issues with it not starting,mayne i shouldnt have removed it.any insight is appreciated as there is no info on this subject,everybody thinks your referring to the main fuse box or the one under the drivers side