Here is some info for you to read, besides me explaining what ppm is, i also gave you some info of how to solve this, Ain't that special LOL. Mike
Overall Result: PASS or FAIL. A vehicle with a properly operating engine and catalytic
converter will have very low HC and CO readings. However as a vehicle ages the HC and CO
emissions will increase and may become erratic. As a vehicle ages it becomes increasingly
important to be sure that the engine and converter are fully warmed up before the test to
have the best chance of passing the test.
HC (PPM): The parts per million of hydrocarbons (unburned or partially burnt gasoline)
in the exhaust.
CO (%): The percentage of the exhaust that is carbon monoxide (CO).
CO +CO2 (%): Complete combustion in the engine or catalytic converter will result in very
little carbon monoxide (CO) and a high percentage (up to about 16%) of carbon dioxide (CO2)
in the exhaust.
O2 (%): When there is complete combustion in the engine or catalytic converter there is a very
little oxygen (O2) in the exhaust. Usually less than one percent. A higher reading indicates a
problem with the engine, the exhaust system, the sampling system or the catalytic converter.
Vehicles do not pass or fail because of the O2 reading; it is only diagnostic information.
RPM: The engine speed in revolutions per minute (RPM) or N/A.
Cruise Limit: The maximum allowable HC and CO emissions at 2500 rpm. The CO+CO2 (%)
must equal or exceed 6. This verifies an adequate sample of the exhaust has been obtained.
N/A for O2 and RPM.
Cruise Emissions: The emission readings measured at 2500 rpm.
Cruise Result: PASS, FAIL or N/A.
Idle Limit: The maximum allowable HC or CO emissions at idle. The CO+ CO2 (%) must equal or
exceed 6. This verifies an adequate sample of the exhaust has been obtained. N/A for O2 and RPM.
These are the possible problems:
bad o2 sensor
bad EGR valve
bad cat
bad timing
dirty injectors
bad plugs or wires
the less costly fixes include replacement of the o2 sensor and EGR
valve i would not clean the EGR I would buy a new one there are very
cheap you can pick these up at any local parts store .
also run some injector cleaner through your car at least a full tank of
gas and one bottle of injector cleaner should be ran through.
you can also have your timing checked for a relatively low price.
and when you go into to have the vehicle checked make sure the car is
been running because your cat convertor has to be warm in order to
preform at it peak so do not do it when the car is cold.
all of the above are pretty reasonable fixes the general rule of thumb
when you work on your own vehicle is start with the cheapest fix first
then go on to the next.
From yahoo answers:
bad o2 sensor
bad EGR valve
bad cat
bad timing
dirty injectors
bad plugs or wires
the less costly fixes include replacement of the o2 sensor and EGR valve i would not clean the EGR I would buy a new one there are very cheap you can pick these up at any local parts store .
also run some injector cleaner through your car at least a full tank of gas and one bottle of injector cleaner should be ran through.
you can also have your timing checked for a relatively low price.
and when you go into to have the vehicle checked make sure the car is been running because your cat convertor has to be warm in order to preform at it peak so do not do it when the car is cold.
all of the above are pretty reasonable fixes the general rule of thumb when you work on your own vehicle is start with the cheapest fix first then go on to the next.
Link Here!
Hope this helps!
SOURCE: FAILED EMISSIONS
possible but could be head gasket or valves , or worn rings and is by passing the pistons going straight out the end ...or maby settings are wrong ? try carb cleaner and inspect visually air-filter etc.
SOURCE: ASM 2525 NO ppm TAILPIPE EMISSIONS failure
I have a 94 Tbird with a reading of 790 NO ppm at 1871 RPM, I put about a liter of water into the intake at about 2000 RPM and changed vacum lines to EGR valve,(may have been cracked), now the reading is only 214 NOppm at 1348 RPM. This much change I don't understand. Maybe this info may help someone.
SOURCE: volvo 850 wagon failed NOx emissions test - badly!
Hey Pitloops!
It seems likely that one or both of your o2 sensors are acting up, or that your engine is sucking in unaccounted air from a leaking vacuum tube. Spray the tubes with "start gas" while the engine is idleing. If you hear it revving up when you spray the gas on the tubes you'll know there's a leak.
I'll sacrifice a squirrel for you and hope that the problem isn't your o2 sensors since they can be expensive to replace. Fcpgroton.com is probably the cheapest part supplier online if you'll need new sensors.
You might also want to clean your throttle body, as it usually gunks up with carbon deposits and sludge over the years. It only costs you the price of the carb cleaner to do it and the car will probably run better afterwards even if it doesn't solve the problem.
Good luck!
SOURCE: 1991 Honda Accord LX failed EVAP test. The ASM
Things to consider or replace...
If you are getting a Check engine Light let me know, it will make things easier to diagnose.
Catalytic Converter
Oxygen Sensor
EGR Valve
SOURCE: failed smog check
How well does the vehicle run?
Assuming that the engine did pass the EGR function test on the emission test results, and the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) or check engine light is not on when the engine is running, and if you are not sure when the last time it was that the engine had a complete tune-up, with distributor cap, ignition rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, air and fuel filters, then a complete tune-up would certainly help, and if the engine oil and oil filter have not been changed in a while, then they should also be changed before an emission test because long used engine oil traps carbon and it will show up as higher CO on the emission test because the emission analyzer will be able detect the higher CO from the engine oil through the PCV valve.
However, it would seem from those HC readings that there is a vacuum leak, and carefully inspect all of the vacuum lines for any cracks or damage, (especially the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator) because cracks in the vacuum lines seem to like to hide underneath the lines.
The emission label under the hood should have the vacuum line routing diagram printed on it, and the vacuum lines should all be checked to be certain that they are all connected correctly.
Here is the firing order diagram for that vehicle to help assist you tune-up the vehicle.
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