A car has run into a fire hydrant and come to an abrupt stop. A suitcase tied to a rack on top of the car has been thrown off and has landed on the roadside 11.6 m away from the hydrant. The suitcase is found to have been 1.2 m above the ground when it was still on the rack. Determine the impact speed of the car if the launching angle for the suitcase was 10'.(assume g=9.8 m/s2)

Fusible link for which circuit ?

Several possibilities come to mind.
Tire out of balance. Could have thrown a wheel weight.
Worn ball joint or tie rod end.
Worn Idler Arm or Drag link
Bad shocks
Bad tire (May have broken cords internally - not visible from the outside).
Time to get the vehicle on a rack and have an inspection done for worn parts or a bad tire.

Procedure on replacing the inner tie rod ends:


1) Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2) Remove the front wheel/tire assembly.

3) Clean the steering rod between the steering boot and outer tie rod end lock nut with a suitable penetrating lubricant and a clean cloth or shop towel.

4) Loosen the outer tie rod end locking nut 1/8 turn.

5) Loosen the steering boot clamp(s), and slide the small clamp off the boot.

6) Carefully loosen the boot and slide outward off the steering rack and onto the shaft to expose the inner steering rod mounting fastener.

7) If necessary, position the inner steering rack shaft in or out to allow for additional access.

8) Relieve the steering rod nut locking tab from the inner steering rack shaft, then loosen the steering rod ball socket nut 1 turn.

9) Matchmark the tie rod end to the threaded shaft.

10) Remove the cotter key and castle nut from the outer tie rod end threaded spindle, and using a tie rod end removal tool, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

11) Hold the tie rod with a wrench, and remove the outer tie rod end from the threaded rod, counting the number of complete turns it takes to remove the tie rod end from the shaft. Write the number of turns on a piece of note paper.

12) Remove the tie rod end lock nut from the threaded steering shaft.

13) Slide the steering rack boot off the shaft.

14) Remove the inner steering rod ball socket nut from the inner steering rack shaft.

To install:

1) Inspect the tie rod end for looseness, and the steering rack boot and tie rod end boot for cracks deterioration or damage and replace as necessary.

2) Clean steering rack shaft and apply a light coating of Genuine Honda Power steering fluid as necessary.

3) Apply a medium strength locking agent to the threads where the inner steering rod ball socket mounts. Use a new locking washer and a new stop washer, and install the inner tie rod onto the steering rack shaft.

4) Tighten the inner tie rod end fastener by 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm)

5) Peen the lock washer over the nut or onto the flat surface of the steering rack shaft.

6) Apply silicone grease to the outer circumference of the inner tie rod end ball socket, and onto the groove just outside of the socket.

7) Apply silicone grease to the inside of the small end of the steering rack boot, and slide the boot over the steering shaft and onto the rack and install the boot clamps. If the boot has air hose fittings make sure they are installed as removed.

8) Apply a light film of an anti-seize compound onto the threaded tie rod end, and install the tie rod end lock nut.

9) Install the tie rod end onto the tie rod, turning it in exactly the number of turns it took to remove it.

10) Install the tie rod end following the tie rod end installation procedure.

11) The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

12) Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

Inner tie rods rarely if ever need to be replaced in my experience: outer tie rod ends are far more common. Its not impossible so here's how.

1. remove the tie rod ends from the knuckle.
2. remove the clamp for the rubber bellows on the rack ends, and slide the bellows down the rod.
3. Turn the rack to fullleft or right as needed to get access to the inner rod end that screws into the rack.
4. There's a lock tab that has to be bent flat. This locks the rod end into the rack.
5. You'll need a (probably) 32mm wrench to undo the rod end from the rack.
6. Note how the lock tab is fitted to the rack/rod end.

7. Put in the new tie rods.

If your garage mechanic told you the inner tie rods are worn out, I'd ask why they think so. At step 4. above, try rotating the rod. This should be quite difficult. There should be NO evidence of slop or wear in the inner joint. What more commonly wears is the bushes on the end of the rack. These bushes are easily replacable with the rack in the car.The tie rods have to be removed to do this. So, when the rods are off, inspect the rack bushes for wear.

SD

It's not to terrible there are not a lot of bolts to take out but you need to be able to get it up high enough to SAFELY get under the car. There are four bolts that hold the rack to the fire wall, The steering column shaft usually has a flat side so you can only put it together one way, your new rack may not come with new tie rod ends so if it doesn't buy two new ones. and measure the length of the tie rod adjustment as close as you can on the old unit so that the tow in will be close when you're all done. Also, you'll want to have the alignment check afterward just to be sure.

its an easy job if you have the tools but you wll need an alignment after so its best just to let them do it all. You may have something bent and an inspection from a qualified tech might find something

1. Lift the front of the vehicle, support on axle stands and remove wheels..
2. Loosen tie rod ends from hubs andremove them from rack ends.
3. Remove presure pipe from steering pump, and return pipe on reservoir, drain oil in suitable container.
4. Remove bolt on steering shaft universal and remove from rack by slightly tapping with suitable drift .
5. Remove 4 bolts securing rack to chassis.
6. Remove brackets securing pipes on rack *** well as chassis, slide rack to opisite side of sreering
shaft, remove pipes from rack.
7. Remove rack

The book calls for about 5 hours labor with a lift, air tools, and experience. It's a tough job. Here are a few tips, Take the lines loose from the rack; not the pump. With the tires off, Remove the nuts from the outer tie rods.Run the nuts back on the tie rods stud and hit the steering knuckle where the tie rod's stud goes through.This will free the stud. Remove the steering shaft from the rack.(take the bolt all the way out.Remove rack mounting bolts. Twist,pull ****,and fight the rack out the side of the car with the most room. The new rack will have inner tie rods already installed. Make sure the new rack is centered.(Turn left then right count the turns then center same # of turns from left to right). Count the threads or measure from the outer tie rod's jam nut to the last thread on the inner tie rod.(you can leave the jam nut in place and take the outer tie rod off and measure from the jam nut to the end of the rod.)Install the outer tie rods. Replace rack in car. hook up steering shaft.Bolt up rack. Hook up lines. Add fluid and work rack back and forth to bleed air. recheck fluid. Have it aligned. (or just take it to a shop.This job is going to be a nightmare!!!)

pretty decent job ahead first jack up car support with jack stands remove front wheels remove nuts on tie rod ends remove tie rod ends from spindles with tie rod end tool or tap with malet were they sit to loosen them hit the spindle area not the tie rod or tie rod threads then dissconnect power steering lines from steering rack also disconect steering linkage to rack there should be 2 main bolts holding assembly to frame remove them should free rack i know that car may have a unique design were u may have to remove inner tie rod ends first if it has those round bushings that always go bad disconect inner tie rod ends behind engine on top of steering rack then remove rack from wheel well replace those inner tie rod bushings u may be able to leave outer tie rod end connected to spindles and u may be able to get to the sterring rack from behind engine good luck

Had similar problem on my 97. Replaced main computer. No more problems after 28k miles.