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Problem with 1996 Buick Skylark 3.1 6 cylinder motor
What does it mean when my car crank and allow me to drive where ever I want fine, but when I cut my car off at my destination and get ready to leave, it won't crank up? It will turn over but the dash lights don't come on and it won't start until it has been sitting for a couple of hours. Could someone please help with this problem? Could this be the coil pack, starter switch, spark plug wires, fuel sensor, air flow sensor, etc. Also, the spark plug wires shoot sparks sometimes when we try to start the car.
Yes the check engine light is on as well as the ETF light. When I got that checked on the computer scanner a long time ago it was the oxygen sensor (if im saying that right). Now I have noticed how to crank my car. I still will have to sit about an hour and a half to two hours was it has been turned off, but when I get ready to crank the car, this is the procedure: I have to turn the car over and wait about 5-6 seconds for the dash lights to pop on and then it will crank up. If i just get in the car and try to crank it then it will not crank because the dash lights don't automatically come on as soon as I turn the car over, I have to wait for them to pop on and then it will crank. Someone sugessted that it might be the module. Also, i have had the ignition switch replaced about 2-3 times now and someone said that something could be burning up the electrical part of the ignition switch to cause it to keep going out. I don't know, please help.... P.S. Once the car is crunk, the check enging light and the ETF light stays on the whole time.Yes the check engine light is on as well as the ETF light. When I got that checked on the computer scanner a long time ago it was the oxygen sensor (if im saying that right). Now I have noticed how to crank my car. I still will have to sit about an hour and a half to two hours was it has been turned off, but when I get ready to crank the car, this is the procedure: I have to turn the car over and wait about 5-6 seconds for the dash lights to pop on and then it will crank up. If i just get in the car and try to crank it then it will not crank because the dash lights don't automatically come on as soon as I turn the car over, I have to wait for them to pop on and then it will crank. Someone sugessted that it might be the module. Also, i have had the ignition switch replaced about 2-3 times now and someone said that something could be burning up the electrical part of the ignition switch to cause it to keep going out. I don't know, please help.... P.S. Once the car is crunk, the check enging light and the ETF light stays on the whole time.
AnonymousFeb 18, 2009
car will start the second try and it has too cool of before it will start and run agian car will start the second try and it has too cool of before it will start and run agian
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When the ignition switch was replaced did it solve the problem for any time?When the ignition switch was replaced did it solve the problem for any time?
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It is possible the water pump is going bad. They have a wheep hole that slowly leeks when they start to fail. Or are you sure it is not condensation from the air conditioner running.
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The most common causes are a faulty injector or fuel pressure regulator. If one of the injectors is not closing, it will allow liquid gas to flow into the cylinder and past the rings. If the regulator fails, it will allow liquid gas into the intake.
1996 buick skylark i see this problem all the time, it starts and then shuts off let it cool down and it starts back up only to die again.lol... been there to many time, replce the crank sensor and you sould be fine. the crank sensor is behind the crank pully, jack the car up and pull the passanger side wheel the crank pully will be right there, you may have to rent a pully puller from a part store but the job is simple
This may be due to the antitheft system. GM's are notorious for these parts failing. When it dies again, look for a light that says "security" somewhere on the dash. If you see this light, this link should help you.
http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/
i had the same problem you have to make sure the motor is supported and then take off the mount from the frame to the motor so the bolt's dont thread wrong from there take off the left bracket below the starter put the belt on not all the way yet put the bracket back on make sure the belt is in the grove it go's in then put the mount back on release the motor slowly and release the tension and put the belt on make sure in the grove's not any over hang make sure follows the map too put the tension back on and wallah all done hope this help's
do you mean firing order?if so and you have a buick engine it is
starting with the driver side cyl 1-3-5-7 the passenger side is 2-4-6-8.line up your crank shaft on the mark it has to be on compression stroke the wires go 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. let me know how you do .
I have had the key cylinder changed twice on my 96 Buick Skylark Grand Sport and still having the same trouble. The car will start, it runs for about 3 seconds and shuts off with the theft system light on. I have reset the computer time and again and the car WILL run great for a day or two and then it gets back into the same routine. Is there a way to bypass the theft system? If so... PLEASE help me out before I take a hammer to it.
Yes the check engine light is on as well as the ETF light. When I got that checked on the computer scanner a long time ago it was the oxygen sensor (if im saying that right). Now I have noticed how to crank my car. I still will have to sit about an hour and a half to two hours was it has been turned off, but when I get ready to crank the car, this is the procedure: I have to turn the car over and wait about 5-6 seconds for the dash lights to pop on and then it will crank up. If i just get in the car and try to crank it then it will not crank because the dash lights don't automatically come on as soon as I turn the car over, I have to wait for them to pop on and then it will crank. Someone sugessted that it might be the module. Also, i have had the ignition switch replaced about 2-3 times now and someone said that something could be burning up the electrical part of the ignition switch to cause it to keep going out. I don't know, please help.... P.S. Once the car is crunk, the check enging light and the ETF light stays on the whole time.
car will start the second try and it has too cool of before it will start and run agian
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