1989 dodge spirit...how do i put the clips back on the brake pads?

Brake anti-rattle clips are used to reduce brake noise and vibration caused by loose-fitting brake pads. Here are the general steps for installing brake anti-rattle clips:

1. Remove the wheel/tire assembly from the vehicle.
2. Remove the brake pads from the caliper.
3. Clean the caliper, rotor, and brake pad mounting surfaces with brake cleaner and a wire brush.
4. Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the caliper, rotor, and brake pad mounting surfaces.
5. Install the brake pads into the caliper, making sure they are properly aligned and seated.
6. Install the brake anti-rattle clips onto the brake pad ears or shims. Some clips may have a specific orientation, so check the manufacturer's instructions.
7. Use a brake pad spreader tool or C-clamp to compress the caliper piston back into its bore. This will allow enough space for the brake pads to fit over the rotor with the anti-rattle clips in place.
8. Reinstall the caliper onto the rotor and torque the caliper bolts to the manufacturer's specifications.
9. Repeat the process for the other side of the vehicle.
10. Reinstall the wheel/tire assembly and torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer's specifications.
11. Pump the brake pedal a few times to ensure proper brake pad-to-rotor contact before driving the vehicle.

things that have to be checked during a brake replacement process
the caliper pistons have to move back easily when fitting new pads
the caliper body has to move freely on the mounting pins to allow the centralization on the disc rotor
the brake bleeder nipple has to be opened when pushing the pistons back as the displaced fluid build sup pressure in the reservoir
check that the fluid level in the reservoir is not above the full line
check the brake master cylinder is operational and compensating ports are not blocked
basically the problems is that the pads are in contact with the disc and that is generating heat. that heat expands the brake fluid that has to be allowed to flow back to the reservoir
if the expansion of fluid is prevented either by over full reservoir or faulty mastery cylinder preventing the free flow back to the reservoir then the expansion applies the pad more tightly to the disc which in turns creates more heat and more expansion of the fluid
At this point and before you do anything else ,my steps would be to flush the system out using metholated spirits by filling the reservoir and then bleeding each wheel until clear fluid came out
when this is accomplished any black junk in the system is removed
fill the reservoir with new brake fluid and repeat the bleeding process until only brake fluid comes out
Metholated spirits is compatible with brake fluids and is recommended for the purpose
having cleaned out the system and ensured the free movement of the calipers on the mounting pins the pads should be in light contact with the discs and hubs should spin free after brakes are applied and released
In practice pads always touch the disc as there is no method of pulling the ads back and it is the air friction between pad and spinning disc that gives a minute clearance when travelling and if that ability is not allowed then the problems that you have will result

if you notice that the brake pad housing is mounted on the axle remove the bolts 2 of them on each wheel and you can change them easily without damaging the anti-rattle clips

If you have not took apart but one side, take the other wheel off and see where the clips go. when working on brakes, always work on one side at a time.

Jack up the front end remove tire onthe brake pad assembly there will be two Hex head bolts these will be probably a 3/8 u can use a big Alan wrench u will also need a small pipe to use a breaker bar and some WD 40 as these bolts are probably rusted just a bit,once u have the bolts out u should be able to remove the brake pad assembly,u might need a rubber malet to help with this,OK u got this off take the new brake pads out of the boxs,pay speial attention to the back of them,now take a big screw driver a pry just one of the brake pad off if u do the side with the caliber on it,(this is the round thing that pushes the brake pad on to the disk to stop the car)There is a clip take this clip off look that the back of the brake pad find the new brake pad that has the same notches in it put the clip on it the same way it came off put it back on the caliber,ok take the other one off,nothice the clip might be made in to the brake pad assembly on this side if not put clip in to same notches,Ok now u have replace the brake pads u will notice that the brake assembly will not go back on, not to fear take a Clean rag place it on the pad on the caliber side get a pair of channel locks now compress the caliber abit now it should side right on replace bolts and u are good to go do other side the same way.

try changing your brake pads...brake caliper may have play causing it to rattle due to the pads being worn down.

1. Park the Dodge on a flat, level surface and engage the parking brake. Put two wedges of wood in front of your front wheels and two behind them.
   
2. Put the jack under the back frame of the car and lift it up until the wheels are off the ground. Slide the two jack stands underneath the car right under the axles, one next to each wheel. Use the jack to lower the car onto the two jack stands.
   
3. Loosen the lug nuts with the lug nut wrench, and remove the lug nuts and the two back wheels.
   
4. Look for two bolts that are attached to the caliper. Remove them with the adjustable wrench. Lift up the caliper and set it on the axle, taking care not to let it fall and break.
   
5. Compress the brake pads which, in turn, will compress the underlying piston. If they won't budge, use a C-clamp to compress them.
   
6. Open the spring clips by prying with a screwdriver and take off the pads. And if the pads are stuck you can pry them off with the screwdriver as well.
   
7. Rub a little bit of silicone grease onto the back of each new pad and put the pads in the correct position. Put the spring clips back in place to hold the pads in place.
   
8. Put the caliper back in place and tighten the bolts.
   
9. Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts. Lift up the car a little with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the Dodge all the way to the ground. Retighten the lug nuts.
   
10. Lift up the hood and look for the master cylinder's brake fluid container on the driver's side of the car, closest to the driver. Top off the brake fluid, if needed.
    

You will need the following

• 4 wood wedges
• Lug wrench
• Floor jack
• 2 jack stands
• Adjustable wrench
• C-clamp (optional)
• Flathead screwdriver
• New brake pads
• Silicone grease

jack up the car take the wheels off the caliper which holds the pads need to come off usally 2 bolts if you are replacing the rotors you may have to hit them with a hammer to break the free if they have little clips on the rotors you can grabb the clips with pliers and take them off you do not need to replace them make sure you push the pistons on the calipers back in clean and lube the pins and the any where the rest on the knuckle do get lube on the rotors put it all back together do the same on the otherside before you start the car pump the brakes until a good pedal then you are good to go i hope this helps you

Straight forward job. Remove wheels, remove 2 caliper bolts per wheel, check bolts,and bushings for wear/corrosion and lubricate, remove calipers, remove brake pads, push caliper pistons into calipers, replace anti-rattle clips, put new pads in, put caliper and bolts in, put wheels on. Start truck and press brake pedal several times to take up slack and you're done.

After you have removed the caliper from the caliper mounting bracket, remove the pads and guides.  Make sure you have fully depressed the caliper's piston fully then you can start by putting the little guides back in then reloading the new pads back in the caliper.  Be sure to use some caliper grease on the caliper mounting bolts (the bolts that hold the caliper in place).  If you don't use grease on these mounting bolts, your caliper won't slide right and you can have uneven wear on your pads.  This could easily cause overheating.  Once you place the caliper back in the mounting bracket and tighten the caliper mounting bolts back down tight you are all done.  Put your wheel back on and tighten the lug nuts and you're done!
MAKE SURE WHEN YOU FIRST START THE TRUCK FOR A TEST DRIVE AFTER INSTALLING THE BRAKES, YOU NEED TO PUMP THE BRAKES BACK UP!!!!  IF YOU DON'T YOU WILL START DRIVING AND HAVE NO BRAKES!!!  PUMP YOUR BRAKES ABOUT 10-15 TIMES FULLY OR UNTIL THE BRAKE PETAL SEEMS FIRM.  ALLOW THE BRAKE PETAL TO COME ALL THE WAY BACK UP BEFORE PUMPING THEM AGAIN.