I am trying to replace the passenger side hub and bearing,before i tear it down i need to know if the bearing is just pressed onto the new hub and then the whole assembly slides onto the splined end of the shaft.

You would be better off replacing the entire hub assembly. Yes, bearings need to be pressed into place and this requires a hydraulic press.

Do you have the assembly off the car? If you do, do you know anyone with a press? That will move the splines of the CV joint after you properly support the flange hub. If not, you need the type of puller with a yoke that accepts the wheel bolts to attach it to the hub. Then you can apply enough force safely. The hub is very tough, you can wind on a lot of force. If you are attempting to change a front wheel bearing you WILL need a press anyway. It can be done with BIG hammers but you risk damaging parts.

on this perticular model it is a easy change of front bearings, your good to go. thanks

go to the bone yard and buy the side that you need have new bearings pressed into it and then slowly disassemble the hub and replace with newly refurbished hub. be sure to mark your seams and threads with some spray paint so that you know where the original settings were at. had to do mine twice because I didn't press new bearings into the knuckle i bought at the bone yard.

It's a press-in bearing. If you don't have the tools to press the bearing, you can still save some money. Here's what I did:
- Drain transmission oil,
- Remove front right wheel,
- Remove brake caliper, pads, caliper hanger,
- Remove the wheel speed sensor (even if no ABS),
- Remove the two large strut bolts (100+ lbs ft/lbs of torque),
- Remove the ball joint nut,
- Remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle,
- Remove the axle from the transmission using a pry bar.

Now you'll have the axle, steering knuckle, wheel hub and brake rotor removed from the car, and it'll all be ceased together. Bring the whole thing to your favorite mechanic and get him to separate all these parts and to install the new bearing in the steering knuckle. It'll cost about $100.

Now you'll have the axle, steering knuckle with new bearing and hub installed, and the brake rotor. Take these parts home and put the car back together in reverse order.

Seriously consider replacing the axle while you're at it.

The bearing in pressed onto the hub. Remove the wheel, remove the cotter pin and the great big nut on the axle stub. The whole shebang, bearing and hub, should slide off with a little gentle persuasion.
Take the assembly and the new bearing to somebody with a press and have them r&r the bearing.
Put it back together, have a cold one.

its actually pretty easy if you have the basic tools needed and a little mechanical knowledge, because i dont think you can buy just the bearing at a auto parts store. they sell you the whole hub assembly which is great for the DIYer.

lift the car off the ground and block it from rolling and place a jack stand under it so it cant fall on anyone.


Wheel Bearings

• REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Removal & Installation

These vehicles are equipped with sealed hub and bearing assemblies. The hub and bearing assemblies are non-serviceable. If the assembly is damaged, the complete unit must be replaced.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   WARNING DO NOT allow the caliper to hang unsupported from the brake hose.
   
   
   Front wheel Halfshaft nut and washer Caliper from the steering knuckle and support it aside
   
   
   Brake rotor Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) connector, if equipped 3 hub/bearing assembly bolts Halfshaft from the hub/bearing assembly Hub/bearing assembly
   
   Fig. Exploded view of the front hub/bearing assembly
   
   

To install:
Install or connect the following:

Hub/bearing assembly onto the halfshaft, making sure the splines engage smoothly Hub/bearing assembly to the steering knuckle. Torque the bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) connector, if equipped Brake rotor Caliper onto the steering knuckle. Torque the bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (51 Nm). Halfshaft nut. Torque the hub nut to 284 ft. lbs. (385 Nm) on nuts colored black, or 173 ft. lbs. (235 Nm) on gray colored nuts. Front wheel. Torque the nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).

IF NO CLEARANCE TO INSTALL NEW STUD THAN YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE HALFSHAFT FROM HUB AND KNUCKLE TO PRESS OUT HUB FLANGE,SHOULD BE ABLE TO SNAKE IT IN THERE. WATCH TO NOT DAMAGE BEARING,SUPPORT IT OR IT WILL SEPERATE WHEN PRESSING ON FLANGE OR HUB

Hub should not come apart...it needs to be replaced. Drive out whats left of it however you can. be careful not to beat up opening or it may give you trouble re-installing. U joint comes apart just like those on any driveshaft...There isn't enough room for grease fitting when assembled so get grease in before putting back in car. Control arm bushings should have no play.

Remove the wheel ,then track end ,brake caliper support ,the pinch bolt that holds housing to the strut ,lower track control arm swivel.pull off and place on bench .knock the centre hub piece out and on the inside of the housing is a big circlip that holds it in .Then take to a garage and have the old one pressed out and the new one pressed in.stripping shouldnt take more than 35mins ,visit to garage for the pressing?? allow 2 days --- refitting max half hour