Engine stalls when making full stop when AC is on, but when I cut it off it's just fine.

ip CLUSTER LAMPS,
BRAKES LAMP MUST NOT BE IGNORED, SCAN IT.
but see this....
BATTERY LAMP REALLY MEANS ALTERNATOR JUST DIED.
when that dies, battery discharges fast even 1hour long the battery does dead and will not make spark or crank it now bat dead.

forget the AC, AC shuts off to save you form stalling in traffic,
it delays the stall in truth , see that lamp go to autoshop or home fast.(batt lamP)
it is a blessing and the AC shuts off too, for engine overheat.
and if engine stalls (a no brain'er that, sorry)

The alternator is bad or its huge huge fuse blew in the huge engine bay box , 50 to 100amps comon size.
battery voltage is 13.3v to 15vdc, below that the alternator is dead.
check all fuse is wise now
I bet brakes are not bad ABS etc. or traction controls etc.
as battery goes dead one module after another goes dead(offline)
and most times spark is last, just making it home in time to fix it.
my all time record , drove for 1 full hour ALT ***** on the fly
and made it 1 bock from home, and coast the rest;.
other times less, done at least 5times in 50 years OTR.

Depending on the make model and year, you should have a device that will raise idle speed to cover the load put on the engine by the ac compressor. That device may not be working, or the compressor may be pulling the engine down too much.

White smoke is coolant getting into the engine cylinder and sounds like a gasket blew!

2001 no engine stated. sad.
welcome to computer shifted gear box.
its called a TCM
it does all shifting
so scan the PCM and see why
you cant fix modern cars lacking a scan tool

the engine is misfiring, has 50 causes.
it not the transmission
transmissions can only shift up if the engine makes full power.
it's not making full power, fix the engine, EFI
scan it. ok?



we have posted misfire posts here 100s of time's in fact its endless..
short list.
full tuneup done.
engine gets to 180f and not running cold all the time, scan it to see that. (data scans)

ECT reads 180f.? good or above. and holds
ECT reads low but thermal gun shows say 180f
oops ECT is bad.

no DTC errors stored?, I bet there are.
4.0L coil pack bad?
sparks are new you said.
fuel pressure way too high.?

to scan it , drive to driving cycles.
many errors are not reported with just one drive cycle.
Misfire, errors, DTC P030x , takes 2 full driving cycles , cold to hot engine, and more rules, read misfire, monitor rules in SM.


The engine light starts flashing

that means the EFI system detects gross misfiring
the flashing part means, if you read the opr guide, or SM
that its my damage the CAT converter, due to overheating, it.
it says, there, drive easy to service shop.

the lamp also means and proves the errors
are there stored in the ECU memory called DTC errors.

but if you keep doing driving cycles, they can clear , causes this evidence to erase.
fools many folks this auto clear features.

owning a real scan tool avoids all this , dancing about.

Engine stall or RPM fluctuates at idle.

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control

COULD BE A/C COMPRESSOR KICKING IN AND DRAGGING THE ENGINE DOWN IF ITS LOCKED UP

i had the same problem on my 95 pajero 3500 andafter all my troubles my car produced an occasional airfilter blow back from running on gas before it finally would'nt run my problem turned out to be my crankshaft sensor was failing then died.

Here is the common cause of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

The idle system has gone bad in your car. Did anyone work on the AC? An overcharged ac also put so much load on the engine that it can make it stall when idling. The idle sytem is suppose to raise up the idle of the engine when there is a load such as a headlight or an ac system.

Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls and low idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.