2000 Chevy S10 PU I have a front end vibration on acceleration. Changed both front hubs in the last two months. Vibration started a month after changing first hub. There is no shake when foot is off gas. Tires are nearly new and don't show any uneven wear.
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Hello, I see you may a lot of changes and replaced a lot of parts. We leased an Explorer the same Year as yours. In our case there was a slight noise as well as vibration. The problem was the Front Hub bearings, They were bad at 18000 miles.
There are a few things I want to suggest. The spinning of the wheels on the lift will not load the bearings. A Dyno table can get everything turning with a load on it. As your vehicle is a 4x4, most Dyno's were 2 wheelers. You would have to call to find one for a 4x4.
Next, if the new Hubs do not help, have a look at the rotors. They are also balanced. You can spin balance the Wheel and rotor as a unit with a floor motor. It's not the best way to Balance because tire rotation or even shifting the Wheel on the lugs will UNbalance it. But this method CAN pinpoint a problem if a Balanced tire does not spin true when bolted to the vehicle. You will know the Rotor is off-balance and which axle is causing the problem.
Would be interested to see a Post of what you found.
I would next check the condition of the engine, transmission and transfer case mounts. The mounts all have rubber inserts in them to absorb vibration and if the rubber starts to deteriorate or drycrack it can cause a vibration, especially under load.
check for deformed tyres ?? this is the most obvious cause,i may be old dinasaur who gets lost with sensors and electronic stuff but after 40 yrs somethings never change
8 months of trauma! The original d/s has a double Cardan style...other wise known as a constant velocity u-joint, at the pinion end/rear end connection. My Ford dealer had it to the d/shaft re-build place and they did a new d/s w/single u-joint at the rear end. WRONG! The OEM shaft has a needle zerk on the Cardan joints and most shops don't know about it and don't see it and so it never gets grease. What you need to do is just re-build the original c/v Cardan and the prob. goes away. My dealer finally installed a double/double Cardan d/s!!! $1200. NO CHARGE TO ME! Problem solved! The OEM as I recall, has a double cardan at the rear end only. This one has a double at the hanger bearing and at the rear end!! I also installed the S-10 extended cab drive shaft alignment kit from Stealth Conversions. They claim even if you have the double cardan this kit will make it last a lot longer. $42. for the kit and $200 for the install by my gar. guy. I would have done it myself but the bolts on the rear end needed to be heated to get them off and install the 2 degree shims. No way I'm laying on the floor w/a torch 2 inches from my nose to do that!! Now it is as smooth as silk! What an ordeal! This is the ONLY way to solve the vibration problem. You need,at minimum, the OEM double cardan (C/V) system at the pinion connection. You probably don't need the double at the hanger bearing. Hope this helps.
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