Hi, i have a ford ranger 1992 4x4. i want to replace the 4 ball joint. i take off everything. i just wonder and can i take off both solid axle shaft so i can take off the ball joint

Old, Some times the hole control arm assembly is changed, if you can find it priced reasonably other wise yes, with proper tools the ball joint can be changed. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
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How to Replace Ball Joints on Ford Ranger
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remove wheel on side. remove brake caliper/brakes, disconnect lower ball joint, remove axle shaft hub nut. push axle out of hub, then pull half shaft out of transmission. install reverse.

Torque Specifications

Description Nm lb-ft Axle-to-frame bolt 66 49 Axle damper-to-frame bolt 34 25 Brake caliper guide pin bolt 33 24 Differential bearing cap bolt 61 45 Differential housing cover bolt 29 21 Ring gear bolt 122 90 Tie-rod nut 91 67 U-joint spider retainer bolt 19 14 Upper ball joint pinch bolt 48 35

A two wheel drive ranger does not have any c.v. Joints. It does have u joints in the rear drive shaft. Worn out u joints can cause vibrations at highway speeds, squeezing noises at low speeds, and in some cases a clunking noise when the transmiissin is placed in park or drive. You can check them by pulling the drive shaft and ratting the joint. If it is stiff or loose than they are likely bad. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

What exactly popped off? Did the mechanic state what the transmission had to do with the ball joints?

remove passenger side wheel remove center nut on axle shaft i believe a 33 mm remove cotter pin on lower ball joint remove nut on lower ball joint with a ball joint seperating tool(pickle fork) seperate lower ball joint might need to tap axle shaft out of the wheel bearing pull the whole assembly aside where the axle goes into the transmission use a pry bar and pry out on the axle sometimes are stuck in pretty good then reverse the procedure to install be sure to torqe axle nut to specefications
good luck chris

No, but you might have to separate the tie rod ends as well as the lower ball joints. With the axle nut off, have someone use a long pry bar between the a-frame and the car frame or fender skirt to pull the a-frame down and separate the lower ball joint. Then swing the hub away from the truck until it clears the a-frame. Next, pull the axle from the hub and finally pull it straight out of the tranny. You might need a drip pan in case the tranny leaks with the axle out.

take the net off the end off the axle shaft and seperate the spindle from the ball joind and the tierod end. now just push or tap the axle out of the spindle and use a pry bar to pop the axle haft out of the front dift. or unbolt from dift if thats your application.

It's easier to put in a rebuilt axle. The steps are as follows

1. Remove the brake caliper, pads, and rotor.
2. Remove the axle nut.
3. Remove the lower ball joint retaining bolt and separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
4. Push the splined axle out of the knuckle.
5. Then, use a pry bar to pop the axle shaft out of the transmission. Insert the new axle shaft and give it a tap with a hammer to pop the "C" clip into position.
6. Then reverse the procedure.

Make sure you only do one side at a time. If you pull both axles, the side gears in the transmission can slip out of place, causing a real headache.

That works fine on a relatively new vehicle but one that has run in salt etc you'll save a lot of time if you remove the steering knuckle completey by separating lower ball joint and outer tie rod end ball joint and bring the whole steering knuckle to a bench to separate the hub/bearing. Soak everything with penetrant, loosen the bolts a few turns and try hitting right on the bolt heads. I also made a very sharp wedge from a chisel and rammed it hard on the other side to seoarate the hub. It will finally come apart then you'll see all the **** that was binding it due to an alumininum knuckle re-acting with a steel hub. Clean the hole and grease everything and fit new bearings