Power window driver side wiring diagram

Could be the motor too...could also be the regulator or broken wire inside the black rubber boot from the body to the door .. What's the big deal about pull the door panel ? Take's 5 min's ,no problem . All other windows work ,correct ? The yellow wire ,pin H at the switch connector is battery voltage supply to the driver switch. Don't forget to check the ground side of the circuit . Pin G black wire goes to G 301 , pins A & E go to the driver door window motor . dark blue & brown . Does the passenger window work from the driver switch ?

All the wiring for all the windows flow through the master switch...both power and ground. So the problem is most likely a bad master switch or a broken wire in the hinge area of the driver's door. Get a wiring diagram and check for power and ground coming to the switch. If so, then the switch is most likely bad. Read this post http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/window-goes-up-but-not-down/

Not following you completely.
When you say driver side passenger window, you mean the driver side rear window ?
The window motors get power thru a power window control unit and thru the driver master switch.
You'll need a shop manual with the wiring diagrams to track down the problem.

your mirror control switch has 9 wires.,your drivers door mirror has 5 wires color coded .from your mirror control switch to your drivers siide mirror / 0.5 black .0.5 brown. 0.5 brown. 0.5 black. 0.5 black.
your passenger mirror wires are 0.5 blue/black .0.5 blue/grey. 0.5 blue/white. the passenger mirror has a ground cable 0.5 brown.
the passenger mirror wire 0.5 green/white connects to a 5amp fuse/F25 onto F31 5amp to a wire 0.75 green/yellow.back to the mirror control switch.

Hi Jack,

First I want to appologize to you for not getting back to you right away. I was not actually online at the time that you purchaced my services. I had simply forgotten to log out. So I am just now getting the message that you have asked for my help.

Anyway, if your other windows are working, this eliminates several possibilities. Your passenger window circuits can all be tested from the passenger window switch connector without having to take a lot of stuff apart. I have uploaded the wiring diagram for your window circuits. You can download a FREE copy at the following link: Window Circuit-01.gif

Just scroll down to the bottom of the page and select the link that says "slower download" , wait for the timer and enter the "captcha code" to download the file. Please note that you DO NOT have to purchase a "filesonic membership" to download the file. I have had problems with people thinking that I am trying to "sell" them a filesonic membership - this is simply NOT TRUE. The only thing I am selling is MY SERVICES and this is just one of the methods I use to deliver them.

When you check the circuits at the PASSENGER window switch, this is what you should find if the circuits are all working properly:

The BROWN/WHITE wire (pin 3) and the VIOLET/WHITE wire (pin 2) should both be GROUND with the driver's switch in the NEUTRAL position. The wire at pin 3 will switch to battery power when the driver's switch is in the UP position and the wire at pin 2 will switch to battery power when the driver's switch is in the DOWN position. If these conditions are not what you find, then the problem is either the driver's control switch or the wiring between the driver's switch and the passenger switch.

The BROWN wire (pin 8) and the VIOLET wire (pin 5) work similarly, however they are both grounded when BOTH switches are in the NEUTRAL position. These should toggle between power and grond when EITHER switch is operated. If the circuits above (pins 2 and 3) are working like they should, but these wires are not, then the problem is the PASSENGER switch. If ALL of these circuits are working as described, then the problem is the window lift motor.

Please study the wiring diagram so you can understand how this is all supposed to work.

If you need any further assistance, please respond back to this message to let me know.

Thank You for your patronage,

Dave (dttech)

In the diagram, the brown wire is voltage for power windows. Goes hot when you turn on the key. Voltage comes from the power window circuit breaker. The black wires in the middle of diagram are ground. Use a testlite to check voltage on brown wire, key on. If the brown wire has voltage, to check the black wire for ground, use a testlite between brown wire and black wire. If lite comes on, you have voltage and ground.

POWER GOES TO THE DRIVERS DOOR TO OPERATE BOTH ;RUNS MOTER ON PASSINGER DOOR; PASSINGER DOOR RUNS IT`S OWN POWER; CHECK CONNUITY IN THE SWITCHES AS YOU PUT THEM IN THE OFF ON POSITIONS !?

This is what I have for the Golf 2001:

' ITEM ' WIRE COLOR 'POL' WIRE LOCATION '
' 12V 'red '+ 'ignition harness '
' STARTER 'red/gray '+ 'ignition harness '
' IGNITION 'black '+ 'ignition harness '
' ACCESSORY 'black/red '+ 'ignition harness '
' POWER LOCK 'yellow/blue '- 'drivers door module *1 '
' POWER UNLOCK 'green/red *2 '- 'drivers door module *1 '
' LOCK MOTOR 'purple/yellow ' 'drivers door module *1 '
' UNLOCK MOTOR 'blue/yellow ' 'drivers door module *1 '
' DISARM DEFEAT 'pur/yel or blu/yel ' 'passengers door module *3 '
' PARKING LIGHTS + 'gry/red & gry/blk ' 'drivers kick panel '
' HEADLIGHTS 'yellow/red '+ 'headlight switch '
' DOOR TRIGGER 'blue/gray *4 '- 'comfort module *5 '
' DOME SUPERVISION 'blue/gray '- 'comfort module *5 '
' TRUNK/HATCH PIN 'brn/blk or brn/blu '- 'hatch light '
' HOOD PIN 'brown/red '- 'comfort module *5 '
'TRNK/HTCH RELEASE 'brown/black '- 'comfort module *5 '
' FCTRY ALARM ARM 'arms w/ lock ' ' '
' FCTRY ALRM DISARM 'disarms w/ unlock ' ' '
' TACHOMETER 'green/stripe ' 'ignition coil '
' SPEED SENSE ' ' ' '
' BRAKE WIRE 'red/black '+ 'drivers kick panel '
' HORN TRIGGER 'black/yellow '+ 'comfort module *5 '
' WIPERS 'grn/yel and green '+ 'wiper motor

*1 The drivers door module is located in the drivers door.
*2 A double pulse will unlock all doors and disarm the factory alarm.
*3 The passengers door module is located in the passengers door.
*4 This wire will read the dome light delay. The avoid the dome light delay, use the separate door trigger wires and diode isolate each one. They are brown/white and are all located in their own door at their own door module.
*5 The comfort module is the main control module located under the drivers side of the dash.

Use this diagram for the door trigger isolation: motorsport.com/images/install_notes/149.jpg

Use DIAGRAM A.


Hope this helps.

You'll need to pull the door panel and check for power and ground at the 2 wire connector located near the window motor (there should be a dark blue wire and a brown wire). With a test light there should be power on one of the two wires at any time. If there is power on both wires with the switch in the up position than the switch is bad. If the only wire powered up in the up position is the dark blue wire than try tapping the motor while holding the switch in the up position. If it starts to work than the motor is bad.

On a side note check for power with all the connectors plugged in. You can also jump the connections at the motor. Supply a ground to the brown wire and supply power to the dark blue wire and the window should go up.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

no problem on fuse............... check your power window switch, if not work on main and secondary switch, check power window ,remove the switch on passenger side, try to activate the motor by touching wire to battery, take the two wires, brown stripe red and brown stripe white, you will now know the problem