1992 olds cutlas 3.3litre a/c clutch comes on and off continuiously weather a/c is called for or not on the dash.engine cold or hot. rad fan also comes on when engine is cold and hot keeps cycling. when driving temp guage on dash is at 1/4. when idling it will go to hot even though the fan is cycling. it looks like there is two temp sensors on pasengers side of engine,one with 1 wire and the other has 2 wires??? idle changes continuously??

why guess, no tools? no help finding this using tools
no ASE shop in town???????? in what country NOT TOLD
zero proof or evidence of overheat told. of many just that fibbing dash gauge.????? ONLY or scans show fibbing ECT over 220F?
fans dead? (all) too hot ?
overheating is very complex GOT AC (HVAC COOLING?)
is outdoors hot? not told. at all location/
first is not throwing part wild and now supper thin wallet.
I guess your shop is not with ASE techs, that it?
my list and not one car have I failed ever, to find it.
overheats when.?
parked ?
driving slow or fast,
AC on only hot day, AC blowing cold and engine over heats
up hills only?
any or all of the above.????????? evidence,. and fans dead too.
see coolant on the ground? or on passenger toes, foot well heater core leaks.
engine RAD side tank bottle (overflow) explodes with steam
new rad cap OMG cheap is not a cure.??????????????
new thermostat (design life 7 years) not replaced replaced? 26year old stats are NO GOOD.!!!!!!
dash gauge temp lies, well super common that,26 years old.
or put in STAT backwards by non ASE techs and the bleed hole there not at TOP.?????? Oops THAT BE SUPER BAD ACT1./

AF 50% not using 50% mix, a $2 tool tests it for, %
the rad neck filler dead cold each morning key in pocket sees coolant loss , every day, engine eats AF or side bottle tubes are bad outside or inside bottle even missing tube here inside or just fell off.
I warned you about complex but you throw parts and I do all tests.
same cold neck, rad look no no oil or carbon dust AF there.
we can do a leak down test at RAD neck now a tool, again all shops have.
no steam at tail pipe end, hot engine no steam there
engine oil not full of AF turns to Chocolate milk
same with AT box , no MILK there, if RAD has tranny cooler just look for 2 tranny tube to rad.
ECT shows over 220F scanned, and fans dead, OOPS>? its a fan problem or fuse or relay to it.
ok still fails.
Out come the tool , all shops have an IRGUN
it is thermal meter gun.
I have too hot engine, and I point said tool to the rad tubes
means the finned tubes of RAD rows of them,
I IRgun them (laser) and set temps end to end
and a 50F drop end to end on each
if one or more show no drop those are clogged tubes. END>
air not bled from the whole coolant loop?
LOW HANGING FRUIT DONE,
PHASE2.
the water pump impeller is rusted to NADA. or belt to it slips
last and never first
cracked head
cracked head gasket
cracked block.

more evidence,, sure seen them all me.
engine power drops too hot (if is too hot proved)
engine PING too hot for sure up hills or EGR is dead only.
engine noise, hear funny bad rattling sounds from valve train.
one more odd one
seen engines for sure modern cars with 1 serp belt
the ALt bearings are bad and seized. and causes belt damage bad the water pump spins too slow. and slips too at crank pulley.
we checkout PS/Water and ALT for bad stiff or sloppy bearings

find a reals shop to do all that. or buy the tools
there is also a RAD cap off NECk test tool called the green/blue test tool that proves exhaust fumes are i the coolant loop and is never good. this,
good luck finding real cause or is false readings.

never trust any dash gauge prove it
nor trust old thermatats. ever. or RAd CAPS.
IF A REAL scan tool snows ECT too high 220F up
165f is boiling , cap good 50% AF . only.
I use the IR gun to the thermostat housing and top and bottom of RAD tanks to see that it is overheating. FOR SURE
and if it is why are the fans not screaming.
some cars this year, have a mechanical clutch fan now dead.
or modified, fans, not stock.

First the dash gauge is not that accurate. Yes if you have excessive back pressure from the catalytic converter then the temperature can rise on the engine.

missing a little and running hot are indicators that you could have a head gasket problem. have it tested for a bad head gasket. the missing could be caused by coolant leaking into the cylinder causing a misfire, because of a bad head gasket. running hot is another indication of head gasket. if the rad cooling fan working properly. I think these have what is called a clutch fan which means, when engine is cold the fan turns slower than it does when its warm. if its turning slow when warmed up like when its cold it could be the fan causing the hot running.

Thermostat ?

run engine from cold with rad cap off and see if it pressurises ,as its so old i suspect a failing head gasket and its due for renewal .

normally one comes on when you power up the airconditioning, but at some point they should both work, when the car has stood stiil with engine running in warm weather, if you can get a test lamp and check for power to the motor when rad hot, or join the two wires from the temp switch on the rad or rad hoses this should power the fan , while ign off and motor cold spin fan incase its siezed and blown fuse

Did you run engine from cold, with heater on when you refilled the system? Try again, rad cap off, with heater on, and let engine get up to operating temperature, make sure you have good flow through rad ,leave cap off, until rad fan comes on to cool returning coolant to rad at least twice. Give engine a little extra rev, for 5 seconds or so, every once in a while to make sure flow getting through heater core, and add coolant as necessary. See if that helps, as it may just be an airlock in system. If your cooling system has any bleed screws incorporated, crack them once in a while as well.

where the upper rad hose meets the engine, take the bolts out of the neck that the upper rad hose connects to and underneath that is the thermostat..take note of which way the stat is installed. do not replace it backwards..be ready for a gush of rad fluid

1) Check & see if rad fan comes on when temp reaches normal operating range.
2) Consider flushing rad & changing thermostat if not done already.
Let me know about fan

High idle is computer controlled to try to get fan moving enough air to cool it down (so that part is normal) check that electric fan comes on and check clutch on mechanical fan if you have one. If all OK, radiator may be partially internally plugged or may have leaves stuck between it and a/c condenser.