A/c has freon, changed low/high cutoff switch, Compressor only comes on if I jumper directly to + side of battery, Compressor then cools so compressor clutch works. No power at connector to compressor. Fuses, etc. all OK, Static pressur etest shows high and low sides are equal before startup. What to check next?? Where can I get an A/C wiring diagram for the 1995 intrepid 3.3 l?

Yes it is true IF your system has a low pressure cutoff switch. Some systems only run a high pressure cutoff switch.
Most newer systems run a high/low pressure switch. When these switches are activated the clutch on the compressor is disengaged.

Sounds like the fittings are reversed.
With the compressor running, the low side should drop below zero then climb to 60 or 80 psi as you add freon.
You would need to jumper the low pressure switch to engage the compressor clutch to add freon. The compressor must be running.

First of all coolant is only for heater and engine cooling. If you meant refrigerant that is tested by hooking up a A/C pressure gauge. A quick
check would be to look at the compressor to see if it s spinning. A jumper wire from the battery and from ground will tell if power is not reaching the compressor. The force feeding the compressor bypasses all the safety devices so just do a spot check. Next get a gauge set and measure the pressure with the car off. It should read over 20 pounds about the limit of the low pressure cutoff switch. It the pressure is too low Put no more than 2 14oz cans of Freon and then check the pressure after shutting engine off. To get it started putting freon in vent the system from the high pressure side by holding down the spring loaded valve. You can find this usually by removing the black cap and it looks just like the valves in a standard tire stem.
oops the fuse should be in the fuse box.

A mechanic would start at the compressor and work back.
Did you jumper the low pressure switch, or the relay, or put power directly to the ac clutch ?
You have a low pressure switch that should be closed and a high pressure switch that should be closed to put power to the compressor clutch. If the freon pressure drops below 20psi the low switch opens, if it goes above 300 psi the high switch opens.

Hello, You need to check how much Low end pressure you have. The Low pressure cutoff switch will disconnect the compressor if the pressure is too low. The high end pressure switch will do the same thing for extreme pressure.

Sometimes the Low pressure switch will get weak and cut off the system too early. Just change this switch which will come out with only a slight puff of Freon being lost. You can jump the connector with a U shaped wire and bypass the Low pressure cutoff switch. If the compressor works better and does not cut out, it can still be low on Freon or have a bad Low pressure switch.

However, if the compressor cuts out a Second time with the Low pressure switch bypassed, the system is probably overcharged and the HIGH pressure switch is cutting off the compressor. You need to purge some Freon out of the system if High pressure is indicated.

Where it gets tricky is the Compressor will compress both Freon and Atmospheric air. Your efficency drops when the Freon is displaced by Atmospheric air. You will need to find the leak in the system which is allowing Freon to leak and outside air to enter the system. You will get a pressure reading with any gas in the lines.

There are Leak detectors and sealers for the system. I hope you just have a bad low pressure switch which is the easiest solution.

The refrigerant may be low or empty due to a leak. If not here are a few ideas you can try. If there isn't any refrigerant in the system, you WILL damage the compressor if you bypass any of the safety switches to test. The low pressure cutoff switch or high pressure cutoff switch may be bad. Try removing the low pressure switch electrical connector and jumping across it with a paper clip.

Can't see filling with freon without compressor turning. Put jumper wire on high/low pressure switch harness to see if clutch engages. If so, bad high/low switch. If not,check power to high/low harness via fuse,relay, or dash control.Battery voltage applied to compressor if accessible will also engage compressor clutch and read your low side with your fill gauge. 30-35lbs is good

Need clarification...
Does the compressor run steady, cycle on and off continually or even come on at all? If cycles on-off then attach charge manifold/gauge set and bring freon up to proper level. If does not come on at all, then start engine, turn a/c on, remove two-wire plug from low pressure cut-out switch mounted on accumulator. Jumper the wires at plug and see if compressor comes on. If so, bring freon up to proper level.

If charge level was low then check for system leak after system charge with an electronic leak detector if available.

If compressor runs but doesn't cool vehicle then with engine running and a/c on feel (carefully) the lines. High side line should be hot (be careful) and low side line should be cold. If these are both true then it's possible non-cooling condition is due to air temp diverter door not operating or heater valve not shutting off (if so equipped). If low side not cold it could be a plugged orifice tube. If high side not hot it could be bad rings on compressor. Both conditions can be diagnosed with a/c manifold gauge set by noting the pressures.

For safety... if not familiar with differences between hi and low side components or with charge equipment then please take vehicle to qualified person for service.

Hello I'm a M.B. tech. 1st you need to know why the freon is low. Hopefully it just needs to be serviced. There is a component located in the lf of the engine compartment called a receiver drier. It soaks up the moisture in the freon so the gases can work the way they are supposed to. On this unit there should be 2 switches(I believe they were combined into one switch in 98. 1 switch is a temp switch that operates your electric fans, the other is a compressor cutoff switch. Assuming the compressor is not coming on-take a fused wire and bridge the 2 contacts- If the compressor does not come on at all there is another problem(it is not low on freon. On the condenser there is a high side port(it is the bigger of the 2)By the brake master Cyl.(lf of the engine compartment thereshould be a smaller low side valve in line with the fuel cooler hose. Usually you can hook up a machine to the low port and **** freon in through that port. Assuming you do not have a refrigerant machine. It is very self explanatory on the bottle of r 134a refrigerant which can be purchased at your local auto supply store. I would start with 1 lbs. and add dye with the freon in case there is a big leak. If the system is overcharged it will not cool properly. I believe the system capacity is approx. 2 lbs. Add a few ounces after the first pound until a/c system is cooling properly and the electric fans are also coming on when the system gets to high. If you get a can with a good Gage set on it you should see the high side between 150 and 2000 psi(fan coming on at max. press.) also the low side should read about 35. It is about the temp of the evaporator which is i=located in the dash and the blower blows through this component out through the vents. Hopefully I have been helpful.

Sounds to me like its simply ran out of gas!, get the system inspected, the clutch wont engage if there is no pressure in the system, hence the switch problem.
Get it recharged and check for leaks, vehicle with air con will loose around 50grams per year from normal usage, if its been years since it was check it could simply just need recharging.