I need a little mor info. But the reason for the being stuck in 2nd gear is because when something goes wrong with the tranny. it goes into "LIMP" mode wich keeps the trans. from shifting out of 2nd when you are going forward. It does sound like your trans. is gone out though.
you need to put a ratchet ******** the front of the engine and remove the dog bone engine mount this will allow the engine to be pulled forward with strap and you can reach behind and remove the plugs or you can get them from underneath the van hand tightened with a spark plug socket and wrench if you overtighten they will break
replace the input speed sensor to transmission and the wiring pigtail all are available at your chrysler dealer take your vehicle registration in to the parts counter so they have your vin # to get the right part and it is the front of trans by fluid linres to radiator.
First check and make sure the fluid is full. The most likely cause is a failed solenoid pack. Circuit codes normally mean something electrical not mechanical has failed. The solenoid pack is on the outside of trans pretty easy to replace.
Disable the air bag system by disconnecting the negative battery cable.
Have the system discharged by a qualified professional mechanic using an approved recovery/recycling machine.
Drain the cooling system.
Remove the steering column cover and left and right side under panel silencers.
Remove the center bezel by unclipping it from the instrument panel.
Remove the accessory switch carrier and the heater/air conditioning control head.
Remove storage bin and lower right instrument panel.
Disconnect the blower motor lead under the right side of the instrument panel.
Remove the right side 40-way connector wiring bracket.
Remove the lower right reinforcement, body computer bracket and mid-to-lower reinforcement as an assembly.
Disconnect the vacuum lines at the brake booster and water valve.
Clamp off the heater hoses near the heater core and remove the
hoses from the core tubes. Plug the hose ends and the core tubes to
prevent spillage of coolant.
If equipped with air conditioning, remove the H-valve and condensation tube.
Disconnect the temperature control cable and vacuum harness at the connection at the top of the unit.
Remove the retaining nuts from the package mounting studs at the
firewall. Disconnect the hanger strap from the package and rotate it
aside.
To install:
Remove the temperature control door from the unit and clean the
unit out with solvent. Lubricate the lower pivot rod and its well and
install. Wrap the heater core and/or evaporator with foam tape and
place in position. Secure with the screws.
Assemble the unit, making sure all vacuum tubes are properly routed.
Install the assembly to the vehicle and connect the vacuum
harness. Install the nuts to the firewall and install the condensation
tube. Fold the carpeting back into position.
Connect the hanger strap from the package and rotate it aside.
Install the 2 brackets supporting the lower edge of the heater housing.
Connect the blower motor wiring, resistor wiring and the temperature
control cable.
Install the retaining screws from the right side to the steering
column. Install the instrument panel trim covering and reinforcement.
Assemble the unit, making sure all vacuum tubes are properly routed.
Install the assembly to the vehicle and connect the vacuum
harness. Install the nuts to the firewall and install the condensation
tube. Fold the carpeting back into position.
Connect the hanger strap from the package and rotate it aside. Connect the blower motor wiring and temperature control cable.
Install the lower right reinforcement, body computer bracket and mid-to-lower reinforcement as an assembly.
Install the right side 40-way connector wiring bracket.
Install the lower right instrument panel and storage bin.
Install the heater/air conditioning control head and accessory switch carrier.
Install the center bezel to the instrument panel.
Install the under panel silencers and steering column cover.
Install the vacuum lines at the brake booster and water valve.
Connect the heater hoses to the core tubes.
Using new gaskets, install the H-valve and connect the refrigerant lines. Install the condensation tube.
Have the system evacuated and recharged by a qualified
professional mechanic, utilizing the proper equipment. Add 2 fl. oz.
(59 ml) of refrigerant oil during the recharge. Fill the cooling system.
Perform the Air Bag System Check procedures outlined in this section before connecting the negative battery cable.
Connect the negative battery cable and check the entire climate control system for proper operation and leaks.
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Dec 27, 2009 - This time around, the check-engine light came on, and while driving on the ..... my dodge caravan wont go in reverse and only a few feet forward tranny shot i will go ... I have a 1992 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L 4-speed xmission. ..... having shifting issues sometimes shifts fine other times I have to cut van off ...
Nov 21, 2010 - 10 posts - ‎1 author
BTW, I have driven it all summer, over 7k miles with no reverse; I just park up hill or in a drive-thru spot! ... 1992 S-10/4.3L V6/249K mi/original 4L60E ... I had a '90 Grand Caravan w/3.3 and same trans. rebuilt at 120k by AAMCO ... I've decided to drive it until the forward gears go out before I pay for a rebuild ...
Ever notice that while driving that the car hesitates or refuses to go into gear? ... that needs to be replaced, but may sometimes point to a more severe problem. ... If the carwill not shift after engaging the clutch and trying to move the stick, take a .... This is a problem because in park a dodge dose not run the the transmission ...
There is no transmission mount, per se. The engine and transmission are bolted together as a unit, cross-wise, and that unit is what it mounted.
I just went outside and looked at my 1996 Grand Caravan, and my 1995 Plymouth voyager.
Both had one mount on the passenger side above the water pump, one mount on the front of the engine pretty low, and one on the end of the engine, under the battery.
you better have alot of special tools needed for this job,your holding the engine in from up on top,and removing the carriage from the bottom that hold the engine and transmission up,let alone removing the axles.
A 3 SPD TRANS DOES NOT HAVE INPUT/OUTPUT SENSORS..ONLY A VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR..IT IS LOCATED ON TRANS EXTENSION HOUSING WHERE RIGHT SIDE AXLE COMES OUT OF TRANS..1 BOLT AND A WIRE CONNECTOR
replace the input speed sensor to transmission and the wiring pigtail all are available at your chrysler dealer take your vehicle registration in to the parts counter so they have your vin # to get the right part and it is the front of trans by fluid linres to radiator.
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