I replaced the transmission with a used transmission that was tested as good. This issue is making me believe that I did not have to replace the original transmission, as the mechanic stated this was the issue. Now, the vehicle will not move, it's like it's stuck in Neutral or Park. Any advice on what to test or check?
SOURCE: Range Rover 1990 abs pump
Ok, your light WILL go out, and go back to normal once repaired, so don't fret.
Unless the pump was really loud (bad internals), you likely burned up the pressure switch (green thing on end of pump), which can be purchased in LA, USA; or through me, GreenDog Oregon (store name on Ebay US). These go out due to the pump running for an extended peroid of time, overheating the entire assembly, and allowing moisture into the pressure switch (Yes, they do go bad, and I have pictures of the inside of a bad one, full of brown muck). The reason this happens is bacause the nitrogen charge in the ABS accumulator (ball like canister attached to pump) has a limited life-span, and goes bad after about 7 years (Rave 2003). This means that the pump must run more often to accomidate braking, as it has no assist.
So, you can replace the Accumulator, and the pressure switch, and will likely be back in commission, after a proper bleeding, of course (directions for proper bleeding in Rave 2003 -CD available on ebay for appx $5)
Or, you could just replace the entire assy with a nkown good used part, and since the switch on the used part will likely be good, you can then just replace the ABS accumulator. The pressure switch is very hard to find, but I do have a couple of sources, here on the West Coast.
If you need further assistance or need a pressure switch (or parts), contact me through my ebay store, GreenDog Oregon. If you have trouble finding my store, just look for P38 and Classic parts, I'll be near the top of the store listings, as my prices are low, due to the low cost of rovers in the NW.
SOURCE: 2000 range rover
Pull hard on the steering wheel to the left and the steering wheel lock mechanism should release. I mean pull hard to left because shift interlock is froze if you cannot get it this way you will need a pro to help! Good Luck Mate.
SOURCE: range rover 2003 transfer in neutral help please
hi, this is a long shot so dont give me negative if no joy.
on the p38 they suffer from a bad electronic selector.
now, i do not have a clue what gear box or transfer you have.
any way if you look at your transfer, beside where the prop comes out, is ther like a window wiper motor with 6 wires.
if so they get stuck, rust or dirt etc.
have you checked your fuses, alos i would add. again not sure on your model.
in the fuse box there is a blank fuse, when inserted it shifts it to neutral.
the dealers wont tell you where it is.
have you put any fuses in etc, i did this 5 year ago, a p38 was jump started, leads wrong way.
i got a call as the aa did not want to help anymore. aa had a hand full of fuses out, i stuck in were contacts were. after new ecu had no drive.
you are sure its not a gearbox fault, get back to me if not sure, i can tell you how to test this.
SOURCE: replaced battery on 1996 range rover and it has
Immobilizer system can be disarmed using 4 digit code from vehicle security card as detailed in owners handbook.
SOURCE: 1998 range rover p38 2.5 dse auto engine stalls
Sounds like something is overheating then and possibly a sensor. Not familiar with Rovers but might be a problem with the CAS and/or CPS which tells the ECU the motor is running and when to fire. Also maybe the IAC is bad and when you go from throttle to idle it can't control it and allows it to die.
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