How do I remove the front drive shaft of a 2001 Ford Ranger double cab UK model, 2.5 turbo diesel

notify ford problem is with a different engine and not all vehicles http://vanguide.co.uk/ford-ranger-problems as you see its the turbo diesel 3.2 engines and no recalls http://australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Ford&model=Ranger&gen=264

22 gallons

I get the impression the cv joint has broken up. Jack up the side that's noisy and check hub for wheel bearing movement and then remove the boot clip and peek inside. I don't think it sounds very happy. It may be simpler and cheaper to get a whole shaft if the current one is badly damaged. Its not a major task but would need the radius arm joints split to allow the hub to swing away enough to release the shaft. Be prepared for the front diff to leak oil when removing the shaft unless its flange mounted on a ring of small bolts. Don't drive it until its fixed, you risk a wheel lock up which is not good news.

Wheel bearings. Or cv shaft bearings. Most likely the cv.

If these are the split boots that you assemble on the CV shaft it is very easy. Cut away the old boots and remove the old clamps and then put the new boots on. You don't even have to pull the shafts in this case.

check your CV joint boots. If the boot is torn then the CV joint is probably bad. replace the whole drive shaft instead of repairing just the outer CV joint.

One would have to remove the half shaft to service the cv joint properly.

CV-Joints Overhaul Check the CV-boot for wear

Removing the outer band from the CV-boot

Removing the inner band from the CV-boot

Removing the CV-boot from the joint housing

Clean the CV-joint housing prior to removing boot

Removing the CV-joint housing assembly

Removing the CV-joint

Inspecting the CV-joint housing

Removing the CV-joint outer snapring

Checking the CV-joint snapring for wear

CV-joint snapring (typical)

Removing the CV-joint assembly

Removing the CV-joint inner snapring

Installing the CV-joint assembly (typical)

Halfshafts (Drive Axle) REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: A torn CV-boot requires removal of the driveshaft for overhaul
Fig. 2: On most vehicles. the caliper should be removed and supported out of the way
Fig. 3: Also on most vehicles, the tie rod end should be separated from the steering knuckle
Fig. 4: Once the lower shock fasteners are removed it may be compressed and wired up out of the way
Fig. 5: Loosen and remove the flange bolts
Fig. 6: Remove the cotter pin and retainer so the axle nut may be loosened
Fig. 7: A prybar may be used across to of the lug nuts in order to keep the hub from turning while loosening the nut
Fig. 8: Use a suitable axle shaft removal tool to drive the shaft from the hub
Fig. 9: If a driver tool is not available, thread the nut just flush with the shaft end and tab gently with a rubber or brass mallet
Fig. 10: During assembly, hold the hub from turning and torque the axle nut to specification
FRONT DRIVE AXLE Identification The front axle assembly used on most 4wd models covered by this manual utilizes a central disconnect type front axle/transfer case system which allows shifting in and out of 4wd when the vehicle is moving under most driving conditions. The axle has an aluminum carrier which includes a vacuum activated center lock feature. The axle on the MFI-Turbo is designed for full-time four wheel drive and therefore is not equipped with a disengagement feature. With this one exception, the MFI-Turbo and standard 4wd front axle assemblies are very similar. The drive axles employ completely flexible assemblies which consist of inner and outer constant velocity (CV) joints connected by an axle shaft. The inner CV joint is a "tri-pot'' design, which is completely flexible and can move in and out. The outer CV joint is a "Rzeppa'' design which is also flexible but cannot move in or out. NOTE: For more information on front axle identification, please refer to Section 1 of this manual.

Removing/Replacing the cv shaft is not as much work as it looks.
Take the wheel off, take the axle nut (36 mm) off, undo the lower ball joint (21 mm) and then undo the 6 bolts on the inboard side of the shaft (12 mm 12 point bolts) and then pull down on the inboard end of the shaft. (it may be necessary to hit the end of the bolt with a hammer) remove the splined end from the wheel hub and remove from vehicle (it is possible if a bit tricky to get the shaft out without taking anything else apart, just don't give up too easily. It is often easier and cheaper to just buy a refurbed CV shaft than it is to replace a torn boot by itself. A new boot from the dealer is over $150, a remaned shaft from Pepboys is about $75.

remove inner cv boot, just on inside edge is circlip which holds inner bearing joint into outer housing remove circlip and separate joint outer housing does not come out of front diff unless you drop or remove whole front diff assembly
will have to remove whole stub axle hub assembly to remove drive shaft from outer wheel stub axle (hub) assembly