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No heat at idle. After I get up to highway speed I get heat, when I slow down it blows cool. Have flushed, changed thermostat, changed pressure tank (it had a crack and was leaking) w/new cap. Doesn't over heat so I'm assuming the water pump is working, although some one has suggested that might be the problem. Also have notice that the radiator cooling fans seem to come on quickly, only 2 - 3 minutes after starting engine. I am no losing any coolant. Have seem on this site about changing the Temp Control Valve. Where is that located if that might be the problem? Thanks, its starting to get chilly here in Wisconsin in the mornings!!!!!!!!!!!
Sounds reasonable to me, it definitely would make sense that the circulation is an issue and at higher RPM's the coolant would flow faster and deliver more heat. Will try it tomorrow Thanks.
Sounds reasonable to me, it definitely would make sense that the circulation is an issue and at higher RPM's the coolant would flow faster and deliver more heat. Will try it tomorrow Thanks.
Did what you said to do and now have more heat than I've had in years. It must have slowly plugged up and I didn't notice the slight difference in temp. I couldn't get directly to the heater core so I pulled off the hose from the water pump that goes to the outlet on the core. I back flushed it both ways because the hose T's off and makes a complete loop. It did add water to the system but I just drained the watered down antifreeze from the radiator and added more to get the 50/50 mix needed. Thanks you have saved me hundreds of dollars and hours in a shop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Did what you said to do and now have more heat than I've had in years. It must have slowly plugged up and I didn't notice the slight difference in temp. I couldn't get directly to the heater core so I pulled off the hose from the water pump that goes to the outlet on the core. I back flushed it both ways because the hose T's off and makes a complete loop. It did add water to the system but I just drained the watered down antifreeze from the radiator and added more to get the 50/50 mix needed. Thanks you have saved me hundreds of dollars and hours in a shop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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You may need to remove the hoses from the heater core inlet an outlet and flush it directly, I saw these get plugged up on many cars like yours while I was a Ford technician, direct flush of the core cured the issue.
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Blend air door actuators fail often in Ford Taurus. It sounds like that may be the problem with yours. For more information regarding this subject, please read the following article:
you have air trapped in cooling system. Go to a shop that uses evacuate & fill equipment and have them flush system and burp air. SHould cost about $65. Make sure they have evac/fill equipment
You have a partially blocked heater core. This is not a repair for the average DIYer. Any radiator shop can repair it by rodding, or just buy a new one - they're less than $100 but a real job to get out. I'd take it to a professional or if you're game, pick up Chiltons for 2000 Taurus and give it a go.
Quite often it ends up being a restriction in heater core, due to calcium etc build up in the heater core, and therefore requires a higher engine RPM to push it through at proper volume to get proper heat. So when idling or lower RPM's, it doesn't circulate it through as well, then once you increase RPM's by stepping on the gas pedal, it increases the flow, and you feel more heat. Here's a link to a tip I put on this site pertaining to that particular problem. It may help you decide what to do about it. Mind you a good flush, and reverse flush at a local rad shop or repair shop may do it, this link will explain what I did that worked, and it's worked many times over the years for me, and is relatively cheap, as long as you have someone a little handy with basic tools around that can do it.
1. Your coolant is low
2. Your thermostat doesn't close and needs to be replaced
3. The valve from the cooling system to the heater core is stuck
4. Your heater core is clogged
First you have to identify what causes the problem.
To do this you have to: 1)When engine is cold check the level of coolant. If it is low fill it up. 2)Start engine and check if engine reaches regular temperature. If your engine is not heated enough it means your thermostat does not work properly and should be replaced. 3)If engine temperature is normal, then check the temperature of pipes that go to/from heater core. These pipes are located up the fire wall (easier access is from the passenger side). If pipe/pipes are cold (even engine is worm) it means you heater core is plugged and should be flushed. Keep in mind, flushing the whole cooling system is different from flushing heater core. 4)If pipe/pipes are hot/warm, turn off the fan, switch controller to the hot position, wait for 3-4 minutes and turn on the fan. Note if the cold air blows first or warm air blows first but it cools down in 5-10 seconds. If the air blows cold than it is most probably the problem with blend door or blend door actuator. 5)If air blows warm first and then cools down, then while running engine and remaining the transmission in PARKING position, press on the gas pedal until your engine reaches 3,000 RPM. Check if your heater blows warm/hot air. If it does, then your water pump does not work properly and should be replaced. If the air still cold, I would suggest to flush the heater core.
sounds like you may have an air bubble trapped. Try loosening the radiator cap & running the engine at 1500 rpms till the thermstat opens & see if you can "burp" the air out. You may lose a little coolant this way. shut off car & recheck coolant in radiator and reservoir bottle. Just because reservoir is full, doesn't mean radiator is full.
Just finished fixing my daughters 1999 taurus heat. It would blow warm only when running down the road. At idle it blew cold. I started with replacing thermostat, and water pump because they are the easier fix. Still did not help. Then I replaced the heater core. A daunting job but not that hard to move the dash slighly out of the way to replace. There is a good write up at tarusclub.com. After that, heat was better but at idle, it would still blow cool sometimes. Researched and found answer. Park car on the steepest hill you can find with front of car up. Start car and take off reservoir cap. Let car warm up and keep rpms about 1500. After a while the fluid will come running out of the car and all over the place but it will bring air bubbles with it. Reduce rpm, add more fluid and repeat about 3 times. It will make a mess but after that, the heater works perfectly. We get heat long before the temp gage indicates any and it never blows cold unless you lower the temp.
Sounds reasonable to me, it definitely would make sense that the circulation is an issue and at higher RPM's the coolant would flow faster and deliver more heat.
Will try it tomorrow
Thanks.
Did what you said to do and now have more heat than I've had in years. It must have slowly plugged up and I didn't notice the slight difference in temp. I couldn't get directly to the heater core so I pulled off the hose from the water pump that goes to the outlet on the core. I back flushed it both ways because the hose T's off and makes a complete loop. It did add water to the system but I just drained the watered down antifreeze from the radiator and added more to get the 50/50 mix needed.
Thanks you have saved me hundreds of dollars and hours in a shop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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