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1997 Isuzu Rodeo Trouble Starting/ Check Engine Light On
My 1997 Isuzu Rodeo has been having trouble starting. The check engine light comes on when it's started. When driving, it wants to stall when stopped, but idles fine. It's at the garage right now, but the mechanic hasn't experienced the problem, and it's been 3 days. The car has done it every time, and now that it's at the mechanic it won't do it!! He says the catalystic converter is slightly clogged, but he won't say that this is definitely the problem. Does this sound right? There are a couple of different things that will be fixed on the Rodeo, but I am hesitant to fix anything until the starting problem is solved. PLEASE HELP!!
I have a 1997 Isuzu Rodeo that intermittently won't start. Of course when I leave it with the mechanic it starts every time! My mechanic suggested that I listen for the fuel pump to turn on and build fuel pressure before I crank it. Just turn the key to the ON position and leave it there - listen for the fuel pump to run for about 5-7 seconds. You should be able to hear it with the driver's door open and the radio off. You might have to hold the door switch in to stop the "door-open" beeping. When I do this and hear the fuel pump running, it starts. But recently I tried this and didn't hear the fuel pump running, and sure enough it didn't start! So at least I know that it is either a wiring issue or a bad fuel pump. The pump is in the tank so it isn't a real easy fix, but at least I have a pretty good idea of what the problem is. Hope this helps.I have a 1997 Isuzu Rodeo that intermittently won't start. Of course when I leave it with the mechanic it starts every time! My mechanic suggested that I listen for the fuel pump to turn on and build fuel pressure before I crank it. Just turn the key to the ON position and leave it there - listen for the fuel pump to run for about 5-7 seconds. You should be able to hear it with the driver's door open and the radio off. You might have to hold the door switch in to stop the "door-open" beeping. When I do this and hear the fuel pump running, it starts. But recently I tried this and didn't hear the fuel pump running, and sure enough it didn't start! So at least I know that it is either a wiring issue or a bad fuel pump. The pump is in the tank so it isn't a real easy fix, but at least I have a pretty good idea of what the problem is. Hope this helps.
The fuel pump and wiring are a good start - the shop can test the pressure easily. Have you put new gas in it lately? From a trusted or more than one source? That fooled a GM mechanic when it happened to me.The fuel pump and wiring are a good start - the shop can test the pressure easily. Have you put new gas in it lately? From a trusted or more than one source? That fooled a GM mechanic when it happened to me.
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The upper intake gaskets may be leaking. They are made of plastic and metal and will leak air. Do not remove the cover on very top of manifold when changing.
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double posted, why do that.
its answered already,
the "meter fuse"blew.
all warning lights out,
or do you mean the parking lamps out in cluster.
there are scads of waring lights, name some.
the CEL lamp tops list, if out the engine my not run.
does it run? do head lights work and all other lights.?
is the battery in car charged," top 12.6v rested. and you can drive say 10 mile with head lamps glowing full bright?
that be good to know.
A 2000 Isuzu would have fuel injection not a carb, so no choke is used.
You would need to get the computer checked for trouble codes, I would suspect a huge vac leak is the cause of the fast idle.
1 Locate the 16-pin data link connector. Connect the jump wire to terminals 4 and 9 of the connector. Turn the key to the "On" position without starting the engine.
2 Watch the "Check Engine" light. This light will begin to flash in specific patterns to indicate a 1- or 2-digit Diagnostic Trouble Code. The flashes will be long for the first digit, short for the second digit and blank if the digit is 0.
3 Record all the codes given. The "Check Engine" light will display the codes in sequence and then keep repeating them in order. Refer to your repair manual to check for the meaning of the codes.
This is straight from Haynes Repair Manual for 1989-1997 Isuzu Amigo/Rodeo/Honda Passport (book # 47017:
The 12 pin Assembly Line Data Link (ALDAL) terminal is located under the dash on the driver's side on 3.1L engines. To retrieve the trouble codes, connect a jumper wire to terminals A and B. It may be covered with a plastic cover. They suggest using a paper clip to jumper the two terminals-then turn ignition switch to ON position (NOT ENGINE START). Check engine light on dash will flash-one flash-a pause-then two short flashes-indicating code 12-diagnostic mode. After self checking-if there are any trouble codes-the light will flash proper codes using mentioned method.Note the flash code then call a shop with your info for what ails your Rodeo.
P1290 = Elec Throt Control Particulate Bank 1
Idle, This means you could have a problem with your throttle body. You
will need to monitor your tps sweep on a scan tool to check for spikes.
Sometimes this code is set when the battery is disconnected and resets adaptations.
If it keeps coming back, you
most likely have a bad TPS sensor.
I hope helped with this (remember rated this help). Good luck.
No...the fuel sending unit is not a computer driven item nor is it monitored in any way by the onboard computer system. Interface with scanner and retrieve code(s) associated with indicator lamp occurrance
GET AN AUTOPARTS STORE TO READ THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CODE. OXYGEN SENSORS ARE COMMON CAUSES. DON'T SEND RAW GAS INTO THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER. IT WILL BE COSTLY TO REPLACE.
the flashing service light is cat protection mode. check cat convertor and exhaust for blockages.
check vacuum hose from fuel pressure regulator not leaking petrol into intake manifold by disconnecting while running.
I have a 1997 Isuzu Rodeo that intermittently won't start. Of course when I leave it with the mechanic it starts every time! My mechanic suggested that I listen for the fuel pump to turn on and build fuel pressure before I crank it. Just turn the key to the ON position and leave it there - listen for the fuel pump to run for about 5-7 seconds. You should be able to hear it with the driver's door open and the radio off. You might have to hold the door switch in to stop the "door-open" beeping. When I do this and hear the fuel pump running, it starts. But recently I tried this and didn't hear the fuel pump running, and sure enough it didn't start! So at least I know that it is either a wiring issue or a bad fuel pump. The pump is in the tank so it isn't a real easy fix, but at least I have a pretty good idea of what the problem is. Hope this helps.
Do you still need help?
The fuel pump and wiring are a good start - the shop can test the pressure easily. Have you put new gas in it lately? From a trusted or more than one source? That fooled a GM mechanic when it happened to me.
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