When igive the van to much gas and it goes passed the 3 rpm it starts to cut out

The black button you refer too is the fuel cut off switch for a accident and it could be faulty so either fit a new one or by pass it but i havent wrote this have i ?

no engine, and LC has the largest numbers of engines of any car.
so no engine , no joy, the below is for all EFI cars. (Gas)
some are Diesel, so..... is yours GAS?
GAS:
the cel glows key on to say , the EFI has power (that's it)
and goes out running (and no DTCs stored)
the CEL has no meaning cranking, but can go out over 300 rpm.
what does COUNT is a scan tool, (any works , in USA)
it shows after cranking all 1996 and newer USA cars
up to 3 errors cranking for 5 second not less, and not more that 15s.
CMP error (cam sensor dead)
CKP error (crank sensor dead)
or dead RPM. Dead RPM is above bad. its just a double check.
to start , it needs.
:
1: a good engine, (compression tests win here) 150psi good 80 bad.
2: 12vdc to the EFI , no elect. power , no joy ever.....12vdc.
3: good spark and still timed right. if not right, cam belt slipped.
4 and good fueling,
there are test for each. if 1,2 and pass the tests
test fuel sprayed in to the induction starts all non flooded engines for
at least 3 seconds, does it?

There can be more than one sensor in the system. But here is what happens when your old sensor goes bad. The fuel mix can go rich and this results in a buildup of soot in the catalytic converter.

Sometimes the catalytic converter can recover over time. There are cheater additives which go in the gas and may help you pass the test.

You need a better diagnosis of your potential problem. The onboard computer in your van will not Code every problem and has to be showing a "check engine" light to display any problem.

However, better Scanners (Some costing thousands) can probe the system and reveal many defects.

New sparkplugs, clean fuel injectors, can help lower emissions. Just remember that an additive which dissolves debris on fuel injectors can also send that debris to your Catalytic converter.

Now as far as running it "forever", you want highway speeds, which in terms of RPM is about 2000 RPM on many vehicles. You can shift out of "overdrive" and this will keep the RPM higher at a slower speed, but it needs to be above 45mph to be effective. Your overdrive does not always kick in below 45, so to make a difference using my tip would require driving above 45.

I can give you something to try. Since the Jeep is a chrysler product, chrysler vehicle computers run off of the battery and in most cases at idle the alternater is not pushing a ramped charge. Try cleaning the battery terminals and see how it goes. I have found that it works in most cases and is the easiest to do. Let me know how it goes.

sounds like your van is running rich have the have your van checked out by a good mechanic shop

Pls Check Your Carburator Settings & Ignition Timing Settings.

Sounds like the main computer has gone bad on you. You can try to have it re-flashed, it might fix the problem.

I have no idea how many miles are on the van but 1st lets talk about the oil lite, it is telling u that the engine has less than 10 PSI of oil pressure, this may be the pressure sending unit on the engine is defective, if it does have low oil pressure then severe damage to the engine bearings can result, the click is most likely the contacts in the starter solenoid are burnt, they act up more cold and give the click you hear. I have no idea about the steering issue, without hearing it is almost imposs to diagnose such concerns. In closing I highly recommned that you address the low oil pressure concern ASAP

change air filter, Sparks and clean injectors.

sounds like a fuel or maf problem . check clarksgarage.com for fuel trouble shooting if all checks out ok check your o2 sensor and the rest of the mass air flow system