I have mazda 6 2004....earlier i have radiater leak...then i repaired...then again it started heavy fuel consumtion...and chek engine indicator appears on dash board...i have engine oil leakege also..

Start with making sure the tire pressure is at the max in all four tires. Change the air filter if needed. Typically the O2 sensors will cause bad fuel mileage if they go bad. The Check engine light should indicate when one is faulty. If the check engine light is not on you might want to have your front end alignment checked. Most people are not aware of how much front end alignment affects fuel economy. It can be out of adjustment a very small amount and will change the fuel mileage drastically.

at first,try to add coolant slowly to the radiator not to the reservoir,then start the car ,keep adding coolant on it ,until it is very full.u should see the radiator fan should be also running ,then that is the right tempature.drive a little bit & observe the tempature is the normal or not."""but if u have a coolang pressure tester""",u should do a pressure test & see any leak.it might somewhere in cooling sytem leak.hope it wasn't too late,it might cause head gasket burn,it will turn out a big job.

I don't have a Mazda, but could suggest a couple of ideas. Leaks can be a pain to locate, especially in the cramped engine compartment of a mini van. These were designed to be assembled by the factory, not to be easily worked on later.

Are the heater hose lines from your engine to the heater core at the rear of the engine to the fire wall OK? Run you hands along them and see if you get your fingers wet. You could have a leak there.

Is the freeze plug on the engine block OK and not leaking? My Plymouth van had a freeze plug on the block that leaked and I had to replace one. (Real pain) I also had a water pump fail. My water pump was operated by the cam belt. When the bearing fails, the first indication is a small leak. On my vehicle, there was a small passage that would allow fluid to leak near the rear of side of the engine on the passenger side next to the crankshaft pulley. This was designed to keep the fluid off the timing belt. Mine dripped along the casting and dripped on the ground which made it appear to be coming from someplace else. You will have to get under the vehicle with a light to do a more detailed inspection to get an idea of where the leak is coming from.

Depending on your mechanical experience, you might want to have a trusted service station take a look. Just remember, you don't have to have the work done if you don't want to, but they may require an inspection fee. Ask up front.

As far as the overheating you might be low on fluid. Make sure you stay on top of the leak by filling up the radiator over flow bottle and the radiator itself. Do not check the radiator when hot. When the engine is cool, you can remove the radiator cap and fill the radiator directly up with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water if needed. Some coolant is also offered already premixed 50/50 at an auto part store. After filling, with the cap still off, start the engine and turn on your heater to full hot. The pump will lower the coolant level in the radiator as it pushes it through your heater core and engine. Add more fluid until full. When the engine worms up, the fluid will start to expand and start to overflow. Quickly reinstall the cap. Doing this should remove most of the air from your system and take care of your overheating. (I am assuming your pump is working, radiator fan is working, thermostat is opening, and your radiator is not clogged). When your radiator is full of coolant, you can then keep up with the leak demand if it is not excessive by filling up your overflow as needed until your leak is fixed.

Again, leaks can be a pain to find.

I would look for:

· Leaky heater hoses

· Replace radiator cap if over 7 year old

· Overflow bottle has a leak??

· Water pump on engine has a worn bearing and the weep hole is allowing fluid out to indicate a worn out bearing.

Overheat problem: (check in order)

· Leak has caused a large volume of air to enter engine coolant system and it needs to be filled back up.

· Cooling fan on radiator not working.

· Engine thermostat not operating.

I hope these suggestions help you find your leak and deal with your overheating problem.

Todd.

You probably have a blown head gasket, not allowing you to get enough compression built to start the engine.

Rent a compression tester from AutoZone (You get your money back when you take it back) and use it. If the compression on each cylinder is less than 100 PSI, you've got some issues. The cylinders should also be somewhat balanced.

Check your engine oil to see if it is foamy or looks cloudy not clear, if so it could be a head gasket leak, If not it could be a leaky radiator cap or a leak somewhere else in the cooling system. If you see no leaks and are losing water it could be a leak inside the engine, this would show up in your oil

you need to determine if you have spark at the plugs or if fuel pressure is the problem before i can help you

better check the fuel pressure regulator on the rail, ive seem them leak into the vacuum hose that connects to the intake, then check for leaking injectors, good luck

check under the hood and see if you can see where its leaking from might be a hose clamp that you can tighten , if not place cardboard / paper under engine and leave it for a few hours ,return later,any drops will give you an idea of where the leak is. with the engine cold top up the radiator with water only.. do not add antifreeze its only going to leak out again..call the repair shop when they are open..

a fuel cap indication would mean a leak not nessesaraly your gas cap, id check the fuel neck vent hose for a leak

OK, this is what the StreerRodders face all the time.

1) Pull all the plugs and get new ones ready.
2) Drain the Oil and replace with 10W-30 with new filter
3) Check the water level in the radiator - make sure up to level
4) Put several ounces of sea-foam down each cylinder
5) Hand crank engine over several times
6) Use starter motor to spin over motor several more times
7) Put Spark Plugs back in.
8) Make sure fuel in fuel tank is drained
9) Add new premium fuel - Use an air hose to clean the fuel line to the engine
10) Pump through new fuel by loosening the fuel line by engine and pumping a bunch through - hook back up tight.
11) Try starting engine -
12) If Carb engine use a bunch of carb cleaner in the carb before starting to clean out most or junk
13) Once engine is started monitor oil pressure and temperatures carefully - run for about 10 minutes
14) Stop
15) Drain Oil - replace filter again - put in new synthetic oil - recommend Amsoil 0-30W
16) Drain radiator and flush out -
17) Reset radiator fluid and top off.
18) check for leaks everywhere
19) Start again and drive carefully for 100 miles and you should be good to go.

Regards,

Doug