It run hot on me, the gauge would move back and forth and then stay pegged out. I bought a new thermostat and in the process of replacing it I noticed the wip hole on the water pump was wet, so I picked up a new water pump. I started it up after installing these parts and it is still running hot, what esle could it be. I'm not loosen any water and it is not boiling out of the reservoir. It is the 1999 1/2 with the Vortec 5.7 The thermostat and housing is all in one.
Change the coolant sending unit for the gauge. Usually this is different than the Coolant Temp. Sensor which is for the pcm. Maybe the sending unit is no longer functioning correctly after overheating. Of course, a scanner could show the temperature as recorded by the CTS, or you could use a hand held infrared temperature device to get a better idea of the true temperature.
SOURCE: will the computer for the 305 vortec work for 350 vortec motor
No. Same Computer, different programming.
-JC
SOURCE: 1999 GMC Jimmy Running Hot w/ Engine coolant reservoir empty
Hi
The problem is most likely 90% head gaskets but could be intake manifold gasket leaking too. Intake gasket has to be checked when intake is removed. Might find problem there if not continue and remove heads. Bars Leak will not work.
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had this problem on my neighbors 98 chevy truck with the same engine !!
it turnd out too be the fuel pressure regulator,you have too pull the upper intake too replace it!!
SOURCE: whats needed to convert 1996 from 5.0L vortec to 5.7L vortec
hi all the exturnel parts are the same a 350 will go right in .the valve covers,intake oil pan all the same
SOURCE: Can a 1995 4.3l vortec v6 from a chevy astrovan
yes i imagine so. they are the same block but with different intakes.
Having a blocked heater core will not make the engine over heat. You will just not get any of the heat from the fluid that would normally be pushed through the heater core because your core or cores are blocked (I think you have two cores if you have a rear heater.). The engine does not need your interior heater cores to keep cool. When you select "heat" on your console, either a valve opens up and allows fluid to move through the lines to your heater cores and or an air duct opens to the cores to blow air across them...
Did your heater work before your work?
Does the gauge stay pegged or does it fluctuate?
If your gauge now fluctuates after your work, it would indicate to me that there is air trapped in the engine or bubbles passing by. The air does not cool the engine block as well so the temp will rise quickly. It will then cool a bit as the coolant splashes by. If your gauge is staying hot and never moves, it could mean: you are missing a lot of coolant, trapped air near the temp sender, or your thermostat is not opening. A closed thermostat would make the gauge go all the way hot and stay hot. The thermostat can be checked with a pan of boiling water on the stove. When boiling, put the thermostat in the water and check to see if it opens. It is also important that the thermostat is installed in the correct direction. The temp sensor much be on the engine side. I am also assuming your pump shaft is not sheared and is still connected to the impeller and it is spinning as well. You can take your belt off and move it by hand to see if you feel any resistance. If you are sure the thermostat is opening and the pump circulating, I would then check and see if you have air in trapped in your system. I looked at my Uplander and noted a lot of hoses and metal pipes at a higher level than the filler neck of the radiator. Perhaps, when you filled your system back up from the radiator, that a lot of air got trapped in the upper part of the engine and the heater lines. I also saw that there were little brass valves near were the hoses connect near the pump and on the driver side. I would suggest running the engine and open and close the little brass check valve on the divers side to see if you have fluid or just air coming out. I wouldn
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