The throwout bearing stays engaged all the time. the clutch cylender can't be adjusted to let any tension off.
Most likely Weak or broken spring on the trust bearing plate.How to check. When the clutch is fully released push the plate towards the slave cylinder the piston in the slave cylinder should go in. I have sometimes fitted an external spring from the plate to the bolt on the slave cylinder to save removing the gearbox which does work but to do it properly you will need to remove the gearbox and fit a proper spring. Cheers
SOURCE: My release fork shaft on my MItsubishi pickup Has
i had a throwout that was just a bit bigger than the oem one and that caused me the same problem,its something else to check too
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/john_2c7bb9c157d0baa8
SOURCE: 87 suzuki samurai - What are the symtoms of a bad
The symptoms of a bad throwout bearing is a horrible noise that ONLY occurs when you are pressing on the clutch. And/or you have no clutch action at all - the car is either in gear or it's in neutral. Sounds just like your situation alright.
Usually bad throwout bearings damage pressure plate fingers to the point that they need replacing too. And while they are in there, they will want to replace the clutch disk too. And then lathe the flywheel flat again so that they don't have a repeat customer complaining about the lousy clutch $job$ he just got. Flat flywheels supposedly won't chatter on take off or clutch engagement, but it could be hose job where you get soaked as well.
I went this route once on a gremlin - $500. The only reason I paid up was that I had a real good job at the time, and then I've never been back either.
SOURCE: whats involved in changing clutch, pressure plate,
The vehicle must be raised on four jackstands. Disconnect the battery pos(+) terminal.The driveshaft has to be removed . Then remove the three starter mounting bolts, this will allow acess to the main feed wire to the starter, remove the 1/2 inch nut and lock washer and remove the wire.Place the starter to the side. Next you'll need to remove the rear tranny mounting bolt. Then remove the crossmember from the frame. This is where you'll wish you hadn't started this job. You must support the tranny while sliding the crossmember out. This can easily be accomplished by placing a small floorjack centered under the tranny pan with a 1 foot by 1 foot square piece of plywood on the jack lift cradle.Next you'll want to remove and put aside any sensors (back-up, speed, gear position...) if utililized from the tranny. Remove all bell housing bolts. remove the slave unit from the bell housing. Very carefully roll the tranny back a small amount and lower the jack a small amount. Continue this until the tranny is free of the pilot bearing.Lower and remove the tranny. Remove the pressure plate in a rotation motion as not to put too much strain on any one single bolt. Remove the pressure plate being careful not to be hit by the clutch disk which will now be free. Check the condition of the flywheel for cracks and glazing. This will determine if it needs to be turned or replaced. Check the pilot bushing with your finger to make sure it turns smoothly and freely.Then......put it back together with your new parts. Any questions? Good luck, Dana
SOURCE: clutch pedal goes to floor and stays 1999 Nissan
ON A 2000 MAX 6 CYLINDER HAS CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER AND SLAVE CYLINDER, CHECK FLUID LEVEL AND BLEED CLUTCH SYSTEM AT SLAVE CYLINDER BLEEDER. HAVE NOT HEAR OF CABLE CLUTCH SYSTEM. ONLY HYDO.& LINKAGE. GOOD LUCK
SOURCE: Clutch pedal does not disengage clutch
If the car hasn't been driven for a while it could be corrosion on the fork but I think that is unlikely. I think you are right about the release bearing being jammed in the spring. If the truck has quite high mileage, it probably means a clutch job.
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