Cruise control don't work

If your still under your factory warranty with the car/truck, don't let them get off with an acceptable defect. Even more so if you have paid to have this problem fixed. My dad has a 07 Dodge Caravan and he was having the same problems. They tried to brush him off the same way it sounds there doing to you. I think he ended up getting a new cruise control, controler as well as the transmission controler. These work together to have a effective cruise control. Just the transmission controler was almost $1000.00 and they tried to shake him down for this ammount even when the van was still under the factory warranty. So don't take no for an answer is under warranty or if you paid to have this problem fixed. If they charged you for a computer update and you paid for that and it didn't fix the problem, don't pay them another penny. They can't charge for ever shot in the dark they come up with!!!
Good Luck

It could be something a simple as the cruise control switch(s)... or it could be the Cruise Control Module located in the engine compartment. There's also a 'clock spring' in the circuit between the steering wheel & the cruise module. Note: there are two sets of contacts in the brake lamp switch, one set for the brake lights, the other for cruise control. Properly diagnose the 'CAUSE' of the problem. Otherwise you could end up buying parts you don't need. Proper diagnosis is a 'hands-on' activity, which is nearly impossible to achieve here under the FixYa website

Usually you can follow the hissing noise. Any noise inside the car? Near the brake pedal where the cruise cutoff vacuum switch is? If not, start at the throttle body. The main line runs from there to the vacuum storage canister. See diagram below.

If you don't want to take it to a trans shop etc.then
your not going to get it repaired

If you keep driving it,then the trans will have to come out
& be rebuilt.

You may have a bad Trans Solenoid Pressure Control Pack

If you have been driving it with it slipping,your pretty much done

Hi,
Codes are...P0135 = Upstream heated oxygen sensor circut fault. (bank 1)
Sensor is located closest to the firewall mounted on the exhaust manifold.
Remedy is usually to replace sensor. sensor =$50-$70 range + labor @ ?? $perhour
Can be easily replaced by the home mechanic with a special socket.

Code P0700 = Automatic transmission fault detected.
Generic code leading to the root cause which is the next code....

Code P0740 = Torque converter clutch circut malfunction.
Below is an exerpt from allexperts.com from a chrysler mechanic familiar with this code:

"This code says that the lock-up of the two vanes of the torque converter is not occurring when the speed of the van goes over 45 or so mph. It may be that this is the case or it may be that the type of trans you have doesn't have the lock up feature. The lock up feature is a gas-saving option that totally attaches the vanes so there is no slippage once you are cruising, instead of maybe a 5-10% slippage. Many cars have trans's that don't do this so it isn't a major issue. But if you notice that there is something new in the way the rpm changes when you step on the gas when cruising (e.g. the engine rev will rise without a concomitant increase in the speed) then the lock up may be present and it isn't working. If it is missing there are two possibilities: the electrical connection to the lockup maybe open or the lockup may not be working itself. The former is an easy fix, the latter is not because it requires removing the trans and opening it up (very costly, you will never save that much gas in the future life of the van). Because I don't have any manuals about the trans's used in the van's after '98 you may have to ask a dealer whether this is a real problem or just a "phantom" code because your trans doesn't have the lock-up feature. I wouldn't get into trying to repair this if everything else with the trans is fine. You may just open another "can of worms." If you are under warranty then and don't have to pay for it then checking the electrical would be good. But I would be hesitant to letting them remove and open the trans to fix the lockup itself, even if Chrysler pays for it."

You be the judge if any of these codes warrant any repairs. If the van is running good, I would ignore them. oxygen sensors give false readings all the time whether they are good or bad.

Please rate this answer! Thanks, Mike

jnjkingbird, It sounds like this problem is the clock spring as I don't believe that the horn and the cruise control would share a fuse. However, they do share a circuit in the clock-spring. You can check for power at each unit (horn and the cruise control) which would confirm this. Check each fuse as well. Good luck with this.

Below is the procedure on how to operate the cruise control if it's is working also this is for the factory cruise control operation and not an aftermarket version added on to the vehicle. This should be in your owners manual if you have one. If you don't and would like a copy, you can email me at [email protected] with your make, model and year and I will be happy to email you a copy. Don't worry no cost. I hope this helps and good luck.

I would take a blind guess and sat the speedo sensor has an issue. 99' beetle should have an 01M auto, and the speed sensor is also the dipstick for the final differental drive. search around this area of the trans for the cable and snoop around. loose at the trans ? bad connection somewhere??

if your trans am is an automatic, there should be 3 levers on your carbuator. 1 would be kickdown cable and run to your tranni. 2 would be throttle and run into your firewall. 3 would be cruise control which would run to the unit on the drivers side inside the engine compartment. Disconnect this lever at the carb and propping it up out of the way will disable crusie and leave you're speedometer functional. If you ever want to hook it back up, it would easly possible this way.

Does the speedometer work?