Crankshaft pully problem

according to autodata belt replacement guide , there are no timing ,marks on the cam gears
it require special tools and a good knowledge of mechanics to do the job so I strongly recommend that you get a workshop manual before starting on the job
I could type it all for you but with only two fingers , I would be here until next week as the directions are involved and you will need diagrams to full understand the procedure
that is why I suggest a workshop manual
the procedure is not as you would expect as on other engine makes and need to carefully followed

IF the suzy engine has variable valve control V VT or mivec or what ever it is for a suzy It will be a toss up but for my money I would pick the mitsi engine as they have been developed for off road racing

crank shaft on tdc and cam shaft will have groove on top lined up with an arrow on top of cam seal retainer.

crankshaft timing mark is on the harmonic balancer behind pulleys cam timing marks are on gear inside timing cover

Hi! This most likely the problem when you try to crank and no start.
missfire- low power sparkplug
selonoid- not enough power going to the starter or Starter it self.
Bad Sensor- Into Intake Manifold, Oil Pressure, EGR, Carburator. Exshaust.
Belt- on to Camshaft, Cam gear, or Gear chain.
Fuel- gas line, fuel filter, fuel pump, low flow into fuel line or No fuel,
Bad Timing Belt on to camshaft or crankshaft.
My best bet is your AC Compressor Camshaft pully and your Crankshaft pully. Try this if I was right. Try to move the tension on the main motor belt, if it's tight, try moving the pully by hand, and if the compressor and crankshaft pully move or wable just a little. This means the berring of the pully are worn out and this cause the lost timing starter. but lets make sure, let someone look at the cam pully or the crankshaft pully while trying to start, if the pully moves, This mean that your pully need to be replace. this will cause to lack the Ignition,.To my last bet also check your Catalitic Converter mostt likely they get burned out when you keep trying to crank the car with no start, also check your ignition switch, hope this will solve the problem
P.S. some cars have a Intel switch also know the Fuel switch is located on the pasenger or driver seat. this will cause the fuel flowing into the gas intel line. press it in to reset.

Glad to help.
Ginskie,

That should be the crankshaft pulley.

start by removing top front camshaft cover ,revealing camshaft sprockets. now jack veihcul up and place on stands. remove left hand front wheel (cam belt side) . remove power sterring belt and alternater belt.looking at crankshaft pully and using an 18mm socket and bar rotate pully until all three marks line up. crank on 1st timing mark and and cam marks facing each other when all three line up you can then remove crankshaft pully , you will need an impact wrench that can torque up to 300lbs .when pully has been removed you can then remove the lower belt cover you will then see the belt tensioner and unbolt and remove , now place a jack with protection under sump and remove bolts on engine mount, when you have separted the 2 halves of the engine mount you can remove the belt and install new belt , k,series cam holder tool is use full for re-alineing cam marks camshaft marks facing each other and crank line up with raised mark on engine block,it is then a case of putting every thing back inthe same order it came off.there are 2 type of cam belt tensioner you can email me and i will tell you how to do each type. [email protected].

left to losen it, just like any ordinary bolt. hope this helps.

hi mate
if you look on the front of the engine under the starter there is a small hole, (you can use a 5mm allan key in this hole to lock the crank) place allan key in the hole and hold it against the fly wheel while you turn the engine over in a clockwise direction by hand when the pin drops in you need to check that the hole in the cam shaft lines up with the hole in the head (should be about 4 o clock on the pully) and the 2 holes on the injection pump pully line up with the holes in the injection pump. (if these dont line up you will need to remove the allan key and turn the engine clockwise 90 degrees)
once all the the holes are lined up and the allak key is inserted into the flywheel, insert 3 m8 (13mm headed) bolts in to the hole on the cam pully and the 2 on injection pully. with all thes done your engine will be timed up and wont slip when refitting new belt.

Required tools: 13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm allen head sockets 19mm socket prybar needle nose pliers If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pullys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS. Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pully ( the 4 allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pully) on the camshaft pullys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pully with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pully with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would reccomend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pullys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhause Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pully, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal. To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponsing line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple. In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long. One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it