What is a transcoolent line? - 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4WD

Can you identify or remember which pipe on the sending unit, the pump module, is the main outlet from the pump?
The three lines are the main feed or pressure line to the engine, the return line from the engine to the tank-this line is often smaller than the main line. And the third line is not a fuel line, but the vent line for fumes from the enclosed tank to the charcoal canister. This line may be identifiable by pipe diameter being smaller, or sometimes using rubber hoses with it, or maybe just a little offstanding from the other two lines. The main line (pressure line) will be the line that has the fuel filter in it. You can identify the main line this way, then just figure out where it connects onto the tank, and sort out the other two lines-the return line and the (?smaller?) vent line.

well u didn't include any make or model into , so I cant possibly be exact in saying , but I can say transcooler lines run between the passenger side of transmission and the radiator (bottom) and that's also if equipped with an aux trans cooler as well (added hose to get there ) , there could be mounting blocks along the way that might be what your seeing ,sort of look like rectangular rubber blocks with clips or thru bolts thru them, these are just rubber blocks they don't do any thing other than hold the lines

Without visually seeing your vehicle, you basically have to drain the radiator at the drain valve (sometimes referred to as the petcock) at the bottom corner of your radiator into a drain pan. Then in no particular order remove both upper and lower radiator hoses. Remove the electric fans if so equipped, (carefully remove all electrical connectors as not to break them in the process) and set it aside. Then remove the transcooler lines top and bottom, carefully removing the retaining clips holding these lines on. Again let these lines drain the fluid into a pan and if possible save this fluid in a clean manner so that it can be put back in the vehicle. Then remove any brackets holding the radiator in place including those attached to the condensor that sit in front of the radiator if it is attached directly to the radiator. Of course their may be other parts attached that must be removed depending on your model, but that is the basics of removing it from the vehicle.Then reverse the process in installing the new radiator, Putting either the anti-freeze/coolant that you drained out back in or replacing it with a fresh fifty-fifty mixture of anti-freeze /coolant. Making sure the transmission fluid is topped off to the proper amount of fluid or if you were able to save the fluid put it back in. Another factor is getting the transcooler lines snapped back in properly as to not have them popping apart going down the road. But the largest most important factor when installing the new radiator is to be extremely careful not to ding or damage the fins of the new radiator because they will leak and you will not be able to repair them unless you are extremely talented at radiator repair. Good luck
MJ

Remove the flat plate on top of the radiator and radiator fan shroud bolts...remove the hoses top and bottom (engine to radiator)...remove transcooler lines....lift out radiator

Could be getting hot if you are pulling alot with or towing.Remedy would be to change the fluid and filter and also add a larger transmission cooler.Which would be an external behind the grill.This is a broad answer because I do not know if you are towing.But these are things that will fix over heating tranny.

is it puffing smoke out the exhaust? If so, u may have a hairline crack in the head gasket. The problem with headgaskets when they crack the can be impossible to see a problem until its too late. It sometimes wont even show on a pressure test. Eventually the antifreeze will make its way into the exhaust. once it travels thru the exhaust it goes from a liquid to a vapor hence the smoke. Let it run and smell it at the exhaust, (sounds silly) If not, does it have a transcooler? Check to see if you are loosing it around the transmisson area.

I'm not aware of a particular Manual that specifically addresses Brake Line for your Specific Vehicle.
However I have replaced several "complete" and "partial" Brake Lines in my years of experience.
Specific/Pre-Contured Brake Lines for your Truck are available at most auto parts stores. Calt them for availability and prices.
However these are somewhat expensive. YOU CAN 'MAKE' YOUR OWN LINES!
Also available at these auto parts stores are two (2) tools you can buy.
1) A Brake Line Bending/Shaping Tool.
2) A Brake Line Cutting/Flaring Tool.
These tools are very easy (and fun) to use.
The auto parts stores carry "Straight" "Bulk" Brake Lines in different sizes (lenght and diameter). They also carry Brake Line "male" and "female" Brake Line Connectors. Make sure you purchase the correct diameter size Brake Line and the correct Connectors to fit these Brake Lines.
If the original Brake Line that you are replacing has viable (usable) sections and/or connectors you can use, then use them.
Take the old Brake Line off using a flare wrench.
Check your Brake Line Connectors to see if they will properly connect to your remain system.
Measure this piece with a material measuring tape (don't tell momma!). Measure the straight Brake Line and using the Brake Line Cutting Tool, cut the straight bulk Brake Line. Using the old Brake Line as a reference: use the Brake Line Bending Tool to shape the straight bulk Brake Line into the desired shape, matching as close as possible to the original Brake Line.
BEFORE USING THE BRAKE LINE FLARING TOOL:
Place the proper "male" or "female" connectors onto the line, FACING the proper directions.
Using the Brake Line Flaring Tool: Flare the ends of the Brake Line.
Connect the "new" Brake Line using the flare wrench.
Make sure you Bleed the entire Brake System.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!
ps: Make sure you clean, roll-up and put away that material measuring tape!!

Price is not bad, the motor set up is a great motor. I have never heard of any major problems with it. You will not get 12 mpg unless you are pulling empty on a level surface or a downgrade. A more realistic number will be 8-10 mpg with a loaded trailer at normal speeds. If you travel around 55 on highways you may be able to average 12 depending on conditions. You may also look to make sure it has a transmission cooler and weather or not it has turbo. All of these things will effect your mileage.

In your comments you say front of engine then you say coming from between the engine and transmission. By your description of your engine starting to smoke it sounds like a sudden rather large leak that sprayed or splatter on your exhaust system where it immediately would cause a smoking condition, really only two places a transmission would have enough fluid pressure during a leak to send enough fluid in a short time to cause your experience, check for a Transmission Oil Cooler Hose and or your first thought a Blown Torque Converter Seal. Torque Converter seals usaully start with a slow leak at advance towards a larger leak over time but I have seen where a entire seal has become unseated thus causing a sudden and high volume leak. Check Transcooler lines and TC seal... Hope ths helps

To verify your issue the vehicle should be raised safely on an auto lift or a on recommended weight rated jack stands to preform a visual inspection for your leak.

trans pan leak, transcooler lines, trans front seal, trans rear seal, visual inspection is required to properly diagnose