Fixed rack and pinion, brakes, and wheel bearing... what else could be causeing this... seems to be doing this after i drive it for a bit and it heats up.. when i turn it it stops...... i need help bad thanks
For squeaking problem,the help links are provided below.Click the link below to go through the procedure :----squeaking under hood?
http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/clutch-squeaking-under-hood.html
----------Squeak and grinding sound is heard when brakes are applied?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/squeak-and-grinding-sound-is-heard-when.html
-------------Clutch squeaking?
http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/clutch-squeaking-under-hood.html
---------Squealing at
start up on car?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/squealing-at-start-up-on-car.html
-----------This will help.Thanks.
SOURCE: rack & pinion replacement
there many web sites that offer tech suppurt, even Chrysler, just start looking, also Napa Auto Parts. Auto Zone. This is to hard to explain on a site like this. GOOD LUCK RDJRP
SOURCE: How to replace Inner Tie rod on 1994 Chrysler Town & Country?
222,000 miles? that's a good vechile so far! anyways, do some price checking. new rack and pinions come with the inner tie rods. so if it's like 50 more for the whole assembly, i would but if not, it's up to you. i've changed some rack and pinions on vechiles that were under 150000 due to major leaking. and if you put just new rods in, if it dose start leaking later, you'll get new inner rods again with new system you'll just be paying labor and alingment charges again. so again, my OPINION is if I'm going to keep it for a while and if it's COST effective, just to do the whole unit.
SOURCE: 99 windstar leaking power steering fluid
all the boot does is keep dirt from getting to the lip seal if its leaking youl atleast need to replace seal and boot i think on that model youl need a specialty inner tie rod tool to remove before you can get the seal out. if it was me i believe id replace the whole rack if you plan on keeping the rig long hope this helps please rate me thanks
SOURCE: leaking hose in between power steering pump and rack and pinion
I agree with snowboard. Another name for the line wrench is "tubing wrench". It looks like a common boxed end wrench with six "points" or places of contact inside the boxed end but has a slot cut in it so it will slip over the metal tube part of the hose. Using this type of wrench you are less likely to "round off" the shoulders of the tubing nut. You won't be able to have the hose fixed. Well, you CAN, but it's much cheaper to buy a new one. I believe they're around $20.00 or so.
If the nut is recessed or some sort of wierd shape, try going to the dealership and talking to a mechanic. I've talked them into renting me a specialized tool. Some of the larger auto part supply stores also rent tools for a small fee. I think what you will need is the tubing wrench. Spend a few extra dollars and replace both hoses while you are getting greasy. That way you won't have to bother with it again for quite a while.
SOURCE: replace front wheel bearings 99 ford explorer
not press fitted, standard tapered bearings, if 4X4 it is a little more involved, just dont misplace any of the smaller parts and you will be fine.
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Its starts squeaking when Ive driven it for a bit... its the front end ...not under the hood... it sounds likes its around the tires or the steering..... like grinding but brakes and calipers are good.. brakes were replace, so was rack and pinion and wheel bearing.... doesnt squeek til it gets hot and then its like metal on metal. when u turn right or left, it stops as long as u are turning then starts back up
The CV Axles may have some problems
It's strange that the car squeaks and grinds when you're not accelerating. I have a similar problem, but I haven't replaced the brakes in my Honda. I think I might take my car to a brake repair service to see if the fixes the problem. I hope you get your issue fixed as well.http://www.specialistautogroup.com.au/ou...
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