Three possibilities:
1. Most likely: In the engine bay, on the end of the cables on the gearbox, are approx 2cm rubber bushes. These fall apart with age and road dirt. Replace as necessary.
2. Again on the gearbox, the cables fit through a bracket, which can work loose. The cables can also rust where they exit the cable sheath. This usually requires cable replacement.
3. Inside on the transmission tunnel, there are more small bushes that wear out. Replace (often have to be made specially now) as needed.
SOURCE: transmission error code P1750
Might be really simple - but EXPENSIVE! I had a similar fault - apparently the first planet set breaks up. Cure - a new box. Price - crippling!
Don't be tempted to skimp on the box. Get a rebuild from a reputable supplier. A s/h box will set you back around £5-600 in UK where a rebuilt (guaranteed) will be more like £1800. The thing with the cheap box is it costs about the same to fit but you don't know how good it is till it's too late! Then you're still shopping for another but you're £600 lighter!
Also, you could be buying other faults. If the speed sensor has had a problem - the box will change badly (snatching) and that will be another £250 where the expensive box will have ahad one fitted!
SOURCE: NO 5TH GEAR IN MY 1995 MITS 3000,NO NOISE,NO PROBLEMS SHIFTING
I have the same problem. on the passenger side under the fender you will have access to the transmission. Remove the cap on the end. You will need to drain the transmission fluid and replace all the gears in the end cap if damaged hopefully they are not and you can just tighten up the nut. What happens is a nut comes loose and backs off the pressure on the bearings and you loose 5th. I removed the entire transmission and opened it up. There is nothing wrong with the other gears, because your problem is with the 5th gear synchronizer assembly. I let mine go too long and I'm having to replace everything. Make sure you put the appropriate torque on the nut and hit it with a hammer to lock it down. This should really be designed with a different method of keeping that nut in place. It's costing me lots of time and now money at the stealership. Good LUCK.
SOURCE: atomatic transmission won't only has second gear
Sounds like you have a solonoid out in your transmission. No simple fix for this. You will more than likely have to drop the transmission to replace solonoid.
SOURCE: cant get 1st gear. 2nd gear nosiey and crunches,
check the gear linkage first for smooth operation, then check/or change your gearbox fluid with the following (before going and ordering a gearbox rebuild - it's much cheaper). Make sure you have it filled to the correct level (see below).
The reverse switch is located on the gearbox, and the switch I have heard, do fail (or you have a short in it's wiring).
Manual transaxle and transfer case:
Hypoid Gear Oil, SAE 75W-90 or 75W-85W conforming to API classification GL-4
Rear differential:
Hypoid Gear Oil API classification GL-5 or higher
Above -23ºC (-10ºF)
SAE 90, 85W-90, 80W-90
From -34ºC (-30ºF) to -23ºC (-10ºF)
SAE 80W, 80W-90
Below -34ºC (-30ºF)
SAE 75W
Lubricant capacities (from the service manuals)
Manual transaxle [to bottom of filler hole]:
FWD: 2.3 L (2.4 qts)
AWD: 2.4 L (2.5 qts)
For
car not changing gears it can be shifter assembly issue, or it can also be
transmission issue. Get the shifter assembly inspected with ignition OFF.
For
more troubleshooting, I suggest you to get the Following help link checked, its
complete step by step procedure to inspect gear shift issues: -----
GEAR SHIFT ISSUES
http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/11/gear-shift-issues.html
==========
These will help.
Thanks.
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