Been noticing lately that my heater stopped working and temp climbs to red. Came to find out that I had no coolant in engine. Filled it up. Problem is.. it still happens. Heater works fine, but if I drive it for a while, temp climbs Took it in. Mechanic said coolant pump was leaking. replaced it, and temp sensor. still happens. Here is how I can reproduce problem: Drive with high RPMs for about 15-20 minutes. I put it in Low 3, and got on the highway for about 10 minutes. This kept the RPM gauge up to about 4 or 5. temp gauge climbs rapidly once it decides to start. I drove home after that point never letting the rpm gauge go higher than 1 and a half. (if I did, temp would rise rapidly). coasting in neutral makes it go down. The heater being on has no effect, however, once the temp gauge climbs rapidly, all heat from heater vanishes. The heater starts working again if the temp goes down (meaning I lowered rpms long enough to let things cool down) when I got home I arranged it that I got back in the driveway with the temp gauge almost in the red. I then put the car in neutral and raced the engine, keeping the RPMs up to 5 for 2 minutes. It had no effect (temp did not climb) I let the engine cool down a little and tried again in Neutral. no go. unable to make temp climb while parked.
Heads leaking coolant into exhaust. Exhaust in your cooling system is the main reason you cant keep temp down. I've never seen air trapped in cooling system cause an engine to overheat on its own, its almost always accompanied with another issue. i' have used the air trapped reason on many customers to avoid explaining more complicated problems.
Any chance of a head gasket leak? Is the coolant level still full? These were known for head gasket issues. Coolant is a closed system and level will not drop unless there is a leak. Make sure there is no air in the system. Replace the radiator cap to make sure that it is operating properly.
SOURCE: engine overheat
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Offhand it would appear that the radiator fan is not working. In some versions, either the A/C or the heater must be turned on for the radiator fan to work. In some other incidents, the fan utilizes a clutch. Common design makes use of the inverse property of silica oil to serve as the clutch. Still others have a relay that actually does the switching on of the fan. Of course it would be to your advantage to likewise check the temperature sensor on the radiator.
Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.
SOURCE: '90 Subaru Legacy overheating....
cool air and overheating point to low coolant level. Do you have a bleeder valve near the thermostat? You may have air trapped in the system. If no air trapped, the radiator may be plugged up not allowing proper circulation of coolant.
SOURCE: subaru forester heater
take back to the dealer,hopefully the will find that the blend door cable is off or not adjusted properly
SOURCE: OVERHEATING!!!!
Since you changed your waterpump, you need to do an air bleed...
This is INSANELY important!
The airbleed is mounted on the top of the radiator on the passenger side.
Its made of plastic, has a seal, and looks like a 1/2 inch (12mm) philips screw head.
To do this, make sure the engine is cold and not running.
Use a large FLAT HEAD screw driver and turn it counter clockwise.
It might be very tight, so be prepared for a bit of torque to turn it!
Unscrew it, and look in the hole.
Coolant should be at the top of the bottom of the screw hole.
It should be low, so add coolant to the open hole.
While doing this, be sure the radiator cap is off so you can balance the fluid level properly.
Why do you need to bleed the system?
The engine has a slight tilt upwards toward the radiator, and both your waterpump, and block will have a tendancy to leave air near the top of the block and heads.
This is a common mistake on several makes after a coolant change.
Make sure all fluids are topped off, fill the overflow tank to its max level indicated on the tank itself and your done.
Provided you havent been driving long on the car in this condition, it shouldnt blow a headgasket.
A good way to know if the headgasket is bad is the radiator cap will have a brownish "slime" indicating combustion gasses are getting into the cooling system.
IF this is the case, your engine is pumping combustion gasses into your system and no amount of air bleeding with help.
Another tell tale sign of coolant being pressurized, is a overflowing "overflow" tank, and a sudden blast from Normal operating temprature to HOT, and then suddenly.. it goes back to Normal again.
There is usually a "gurgling" sound under your dash..
Lets assume you just need to do an air bleed, and things will go back to normal.
Also, if your airbleed screw has alittle coolant leaking around it, replace it with a new one as the seal and plastic have worn due to age.
Good luck!
SOURCE: Subaru Forester 1999 just started
Maybe the throttle position sensor? Its attatched to the throttle body or wherever the throttle is attatched to the intake system.
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