In the first part of your post, are you saying, you have to jump starter relay in order to get it to start? I looked at info for 96 c1500, 5.0L engine. If I understand you correctly, check the control side of relay, left side in the diagram. It needs voltage and ground both. Ground is a chassis ground, voltage comes from crank position of ignition switch and is wired through the clutch or neutral switch, depending on the tranny.
SOURCE: fuel pump 2000 chevy blazer
Check your connections. did you run the fuel pump wiring under the drivers side door sash like GM did?.. if so check for nicks in the wire or bending or cracks.. this happens.. happened to me. check your fuel pressure. 40 dollar part at an auto store. If its below 59 PSI it wont work. And blazers are very intolerable to low fuel pressure. Also try taking the negative post off your battery for a little while and then putting it back on and if you can get it started again drive around (if its safe and running decent) for at least 30 minutes to get your car computer system acclimated to a new functioning part. Did you check the fuel filter?. rule of thumb when a pump goes change the filter its always the last thing people expect because we all jump to catastrophic engine failure at the first no start moment. lol.
Make sure that all your ducks are in get my drift.. Air oxygen fuel thats the mixture you need to check all those vital parts. before pulling your head off.
SOURCE: Heater controls just quit working
I have a 92 Suburban with the same issue (been going on for about a year) AC will turn on when hit a bump in the road... and off with the same type of bump...
I had researched just about everything including replacing the RELAY behind the glove box...
this still didn't help...
finally after replacing most the hardware... I started tracing the wires and found that there is a plug under the glove box there there is a HOT (red) wire that was overheating due to a bad connection and it was melting...
here is where my plug is...
- open the glove box & remove the door
- remove the screws on sides of glove box and remove the glove box it's self...
(you should now see many wires and things)
- now this is where I replaced the relay... I think it was the middle one... if you replace it you will want to refer to a manual or call a dealership to make sure you replace the right one... (it was like $24 or $27)... here is a link to what the relay looks like...
-then if you follow the RED wire out of that relay.... about 3 feet of wire or so.... you will find a connector... with 5 Wires (Mine are colored - Red, Orange, Lime, Black and Green)
** this is the connector that seems to be my problem
Either Replace the Connectors or the (cheap way to fix it is remove the connector and clamp and/or sodier each of the 5 pairs of wires together without the plug... )
I am currently waiting for a new plug from my local dealer but I have bypassed the connector and manually connected the wires until the dealer gets the connector get it...
Hopefully that helps...
SOURCE: fuel pump problems 2003 s10 chev 4.3 v6
Your ECU is what acctivates your fuel pump realy. Put the key on the run possition and pull the ecu fuse for a few seconds and reinstall it ans it should accivate your realy for 5 seconds, Good luck.
SOURCE: 1996 Chev Silverado K3500 dually, no brake lights
The chevys with red brake lights and turn signals do two things and I've fixeds alot of them. Looking at the tail lights with the hazard flashers on. both sides flash with nothingeles on? Or are the hazards yellow? if they're red and the third eye does work the turn signal switch is possible problem but it doesn't let the blubs and the circuit boards in the taillights out as they can fail and do some really bad stories the wires for the brakes and the turns and the hazards are the same ones and if the turns look right and the hazards look right then the turn signal switch transmites the turn too as this doesn't work part of your story can't be true
SOURCE: 2004 SILVERADO HORN DOES NOT WORK RELAY GOOD CANT
First make sure and check the horn fuse.If this is good then go to the front of the vehicle and on the front left and front right of the radiator support frame there is a horn on each side.You should be able to get to them from under the vehicle.You might have to jack it up.Below the headlamp assembly area.The green wire is the power to the horn.Should have power when you depress the horn pad.Hope this helps.Good luck.
Testimonial: "HAVEN'T TRIED YET BUT THANKS FOR REPLY"
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