Battery died now wont start

SOURCE: car wont start

At first, I thought 'coil pack'. But you said it tried to start. So that's out. You might check that you're getting spark just to be thorough.

Did it ever start again after the stall on the interstate?

If not, I'm leaning towards the timing chain.

What happens if your timing chain broke:

• The timing chain no longer turns the cam(s)
• The cam(s) no longer open/close the valves
• The valves become stationary, remaining open or closed depending on the position of the cam(s)
• If even one valve is open in a cylinder, no compression.
• No compression, no start.
  

SOURCE: I have a Saturn L200.

I'm experiencing the same things with my '03 l200. My mechanic replaced the fuel pump about 3 times before finally telling me it was the body control module. It will cost me about $260. On top of the problems you mentioned, my car also doesn't register miles in the odometer, and the dashboard lights flicker. He said all this was because of the faulty body control module.

SOURCE: does my 2002 gave a fuel shut of switch and if so where is it

Try pulling the engine coolant temp sensor, They often crack not sure why but the ceramic tip cracks makes the car hard to start, the car's idle may race while shifting gears, and often smokes. The sensor is on the right side of the engine when looking at it on the head... In your case if the sensor is cracked it can be shorting out they electrical system.. its an idea there isn't a fuel shut off I've had this problem and seen if before so goodluck

SOURCE: 2001 saturn L-series 3.0 dies after starting

You mentioned that some of the couplers for the intake runners are (were) split. I don't think that has anything to do with your problem, but it gives me an idea.

If the vacuum hose leading to your MAP sensor is also split/crushed/broken then the MAP sensor will never register any manifold vacuum. The only time that reading would be right would be when the car was at WOT. This theory alone does not explain why your car does not run, though because your car also has a mass airflow sensor. It should be able to run if either one of those sensors fails (but not both - or at least not very well with both failed). Did your car display a "check engine" light before the current condition developed? Does it have one now?

I would check the hose leading to the MAP sensor (if there is one - now that I look more closely at the drawings, it doesn't look like there is a hose). The MAP is on the top of the intake manifold on the rear bank above the cylinder closest to the driver's side of the car. It is held in by one bolt.

Can you retrieve any stored codes? Stores like Autozone will scan a car for its codes for free, but they don't make "house calls."

After typing all the above information, something new has occurred to me:

Your car has a drive-by-wire throttle. Idle speed is controlled by the electronic throttle valve. If you remove the tube that connects the throttle valve to the air cleaner, you should be able to see the throttle plate. Does it move appropriately for the amount of accelerator pedal input? For example, if you apply roughly 10% throttle, does the plate open roughly 10% of the way?

Your engine computer may just need to re-learn the position of the throttle plate. To do this, with your foot off the accelerator, turn the ignition to the "run" position, but do not attempt to start the car. After 30 seconds, the engine should begin the relearn sequence. If there are any TPS-related codes stored, the ECU will not attempt to run the relearn sequence, so you'll need to diagnose why that isn't working.

Anyway, this second option fits your symptoms a bit better than the first, and could indicate a failed throttle position sensor, accelerator position sensor, throttle actuator, wiring, or engine computer.

By the way, inability to rev above 3200 RPM may not be a problem. Some cars with automatic transmissions are limited and will not rev above a certain speed when in neutral or park. That said, if the throttle valve was not opening all the way because it was faulty, that would be a different story.

SOURCE: 94 saturn 1.9L flooding out

i bet the coolant temp sensor is bad,,,when the sensor cracks coolant leaks into and wrecks it and then the coolant leaks thru the sensor and into the harness,,,and this causes the car to dump too much fuel because the computer is seeing a temp that is not real and therefore the air fuel mixture is off and flooding the car,,,typical issue,replace the coolant temp sensor and then harness,,like $75 for both at saturn,,do not by the aftermarket ones,yes the cost less but they are junk and will not work either,,,also i bet if you put the gas pedal to the floor or pump it when this happens i bet the car starts and smokes when it does,,,,saturn redsigned the sensor for this reason,it was plastic and they made it brass so now it can not crack and leak,the aftermarket ones are still plastic junk