Stereo and interior light and central locking r not working

The stereo installation's weak connection is the most likely source of this problem. Make sure the wiring harness is secure by inspecting it. If it doesn't work, it could be necessary to disassemble the door panel to check that all the connections are made properly. If the wiring is correct, you might need to consult the vehicle's wiring diagrams to conduct additional troubleshooting.

1 - Heated washer nozzles, heated outside mirrors 10A
2 - Turn signal system 10A
3 - Illumination 5A
4 - License plate light 5A
5 - Comfort system 7.5A
6 - Central locking system 5A
7 - Back-up lights 10A
8 - Telephone system 5A
9 - ABS 5A
10 - Engine control, gasoline 10A
11 - Instrument cluster, shift lock 5A
12 - B+ (battery positive voltage) for DLC 7.5A
13 - Brake lights 10A
14 - Interior lights, with central locking 10A
- Interior lights, only 5A
15 - Instrument cluster, automatic transmission 5A
16 - A/C-clutch, electrical water pump 10A
17 - Door lock heater 7.5A
18 - Right headlight, high beam 10A
19 - Left headlight, high beam 10A
20 - Right headlight, low beam 15A
21 - Left headlight, low beam 15A
22 - Sidemarker lights, right 5A
23 - Sidemarker lights, left 5A
24 - Wiper system, washer pump 20A
25 - Fresh air blower, air conditioning 25A
26 - Rear window defogger 25A
27 - Daytime running lights 10A
28 - Fuel pump (FP) 15A
29 - Engine control, gasoline 15A
- Engine control, diesel 10A
30 - Sunroof 20A
31 - Automatic transmission 20A
32 - Engine control, injectors, gasoline 10A
- Engine control, injectors, diesel 15A
33 - Headlight washer system 20A
34 - Engine control 10A
35 - Trailer socket 30A
36 - Fog lights 15A
37 - Radio system 10A
38 - Luggage compartment light, central locking system 15A
39 - Emergency flasher system 15A
40 - Dual horn 20A
41 - Cigarette lighter, 12V power outlets 15A
42 - Radio system 25A
43 - Engine control 10A
44 - Heated seats 15A

Did you happen to check main fuses under the hood

Usually in the drivers side panel under steering console.if not look under hood near wheel arch....or passenger footwell.it sounds like the main 20-30 amp fuse blew.did he get negative and positive terminals back to front so it went to positive earth?

either fit battery cut off switch or try taking the wires off the back of the alternator ,i have a funny feeling its a diode packed up in the rectifier

This is as a result of a short occurring most likely in the radio harness.

It happened me while working on a customers car. In my case checked all fuses and they all appeared fine, both those under the hood/bonnet and those underneath the steering wheel.

After studying the workshop electrical schemmatics for the car it appears that the clock, interior lights, central locking receiver and radio permanent live/battery are all on the one line.

In effect damage had occurred after the internal fuse panel, therefore all fuses were ok and supplying power across them, but at some point after there was a break in the wire.

However you DO NOT need to remove dash and or replace harnesses to rectify.

Look at the fuse panel underneath the steering wheel. Slot 18 (bottom RHS) and you will see in raised plastic 'BACK UP'. Inserting a 10A fuse here will restore the interior lights, radio, clock and your central locking.

There is a small plastic piece in the way which prevents a fuse going in. Simply use a thin pair of pliers, scissors or a screwdriver (or similar tool) to break this and all pieces of it away until you are able to insert the 10A mini blade fuse.

Problem Sorted!

(I believe the fact this back up exists is because the designers of electrical system at mitsibushi realised it had shortcomings or this would be a potential problem - and included the back up for such an occurence)

Fearghus Quinn
(7 years experienced auto electrician & owner of Car Audio company in Perth Western Australia)

Sounds like you may have a bad ground clean battery terminals!! get wiring schematic!!!! Good Luck!!!!

I just saw your posting. Yes, It could be a fuse, a 10amp interior light fuse BUT... I had to replace the Central Locking Control module which toasted first... I had the 3 open door, no working lights/windows situation too...

The problem seems to be in the main cabin light which has the 3 way rocker switch. Turn this off (depress the side on the driver side of the car (US)). Check the 10 amp fuse for the interior light. If it is burnt, you are OK if its not, you need to replace the Central Locking module. ~$200 US

I still have not replaced the cabin light module where I think a short is. If I replace the fuse in question, and turn the cabin light on, it "pulses" for a few minutes and then cooks the fuse.

Hi Toyota Ed,
I can't see any black box under driver front seat. Will get husband to check when he gets home. This camry is late 1997, V6 auto, Model: MCV20 if that is of any help.??
jennyp

I would be concerned that you may have wired the stereo incorrectly, causing this shorting problem. I suggest that you take it to a stereo installer to check the wiring, as if it is wired correctly the stereo should at least light up with a new fuse in there. Unless the new fuse blew straight away when you put it in. The central lock is likely to be thrown off by the fact that the interior light isn't working, as it uses this input to figure out if the doors are open or shut. Check interior light fuse condition, and get the wiring you've done checked, would be my advice.