You will have to get a line wrench and take out the old line. the parts store only sells straight line so you will have to bend it as close to the original as you can. be sure to buy the tool that will help bend the line without kinking it.
I just did the rear traveling brake line on my 2001 ford EXP. I would like to add some helpful comments. 1. if the line is bad.. snip it near the base of the junction and then put a socket on it. so much easier than buying a line wrench for a line you dont intend to keep.
also I re routed my line as i left the rear left side and re piped it back to the front. I avoided the gas tank area. I was able to use two five foot lines and one union to reach the antilock mechanism/ hub.
notes:
1. on the brake line there is a short thread and long three. the long thread is needed to go into the small "hub" at the back of the truck.
2. i put both short thread ends of the new brake lines toward each other and fitted the union last.
** pick this up while picking up the brake lines you need
3. you will need a converter form the 3/16ths thread size to the larger 1/4 threads as you re thread back into the anti lock terminal.
***************** HELPFUL HINT **************************
on the five foot section i routed on the back half of the truck.. i slipped an old piece of garden hose over it to keep it from chaffing/ rubbing.
One site i saw recommended using a 5 foot and 6 foot peice to do this job and another 5 foot piece to bridge across the rear from left rear to right rear. I will cross that bridge when i come to it, hehe..
buy the 5 dollar line bender and a really good snips.
cheers
SOURCE: brake line diagram
There are 2 pieces,but you shouldn't need to replace them both,
You have 2 (metal) on each side of the differential running towards the wheels.one is shorter than the other and meet at a small distribution block
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SOURCE: Replacing a RABS Valve
In order to bleed the RABS there is a special tool that plugs into the connector of the RABS and holds the solenoids open to facilitate bleeding, you will need to take it to a brake specialists that has a tool to do this.
SOURCE: Ford Expedition rear brake brake replacement
The rear pads are usualy harder than the front and the harder the pads the more wear there is on the rotors Unless the rotors were worn to the point of replacement they could have had them skimmed.Being soft doesnt make much sense.Have an 03 ba falcon and only replaced our rotors after doing 125000ks The expidition is a similar beast that used the same brake system.Get the rotors skimmed and go to a slightly softer pad to extend rotor life
SOURCE: How do I remove rear brake rotors on a 2004 Ford
Remove the brake caliper bolts{2} and caliper.
soak the rotor around the hub with penetrant oil and knock off with large hammer, careful not to hit the wheel studs. These rotors corrode and rust on really bad. If you can loosen the self adjuster behind the backing plate for the parking brake shoes, this will help as they hang up on them too.
SOURCE: Brake line burst 1999 ford expedition
Which brake line are you talking about?. The metal steel ones,or the rubber ones. Doesn't matter. If you are buying the rubber ones, then just ask for them by year and model of truck.
If you are working with the steel ones, they are either going to be 5/16 or 1/4 depending which line it is. the 5/16 ones are usually attached to the master cylinder or the ABS unit. The fittings sometimes if you don't find the right one have to be re used, in which case you will need to flare the tubing. (Double Flare) Or you can go to the dealer, pay an arm and a leg, but you don't have to flare the tubing, which takes the fun out of the job.
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