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Squeaking noise right front check wheel bearing, lubed caliper slide pins, cleaned rim mounting surface, rotated tires, cv has some play but doesnt click when turning faster you go the more it sqeaks has new brake pads and rotors not sure what else to check, axel bearing seem good no noise in axel housing only hear it from outside the right front tire?
Not sure what type vehicle we're talking about here, although you can lube up the rack and pinion or grease up your upper, if so equipped, and lower ball joints.
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If the brake fluid has NOT been changed on any vehicle
every 2 years since it was new, you can be assured that after
10 years ,the inside of the calipers are all rust
Replace the calipers & the rubber flex hoses, as they collapse
inside also.
You MUST remove ALL Rust from any surface the pads or calipers slide on & use anti-seize on those surfaces
You must remove all rust from wheel hub face,both side of the rotor & mounting face of the wheels & lube them also
You have to remove & clean the caliper slide pins/bolts & use
the synthetic caliper lube inside there
Need a helper to bleed the brakes & have to start at the back
& do all 4 corners
Just jack the vehicle to the side you hear the noise put a stand and turn the wheel with your hands and listen.I believe is not rim,possible is the wheel bearing. Give it a test.
Did you have the rotors machined or replace them ,if there too thin to machine?
Did you buy quality oem specific pads or the cheapest you could find?
Did you remove all rust from pad slides,slippers or caliper mounting bracket?
Did you lube the pad,sliding surfaces?
Did you flush and bleed all 4 calipers.
Did you remove all rust from face of caliper mounting surface. ( bearing flange/stud, face)
Torque wheels after cleaning mounting surface?
There are no "tire bushings". There is a complete front wheel bearing assembly that if bad, will need to be replaced. There are also no lube fittings on any of these assembly's. You need to remove the entire brake assembly, rotors, calipers, and caliper mount just to get to the nut for the front wheel bearing. Then you have to take cotter pin out of the main nut on the end of the axle, and take off the nut locking nut, you will need a 32mm socket, (if memory serves me correctly) to take the axle nut off. Then there will be 3 bolts on the back side of the axle housing that will need to come out, unplug your electronic brake wire, and the wheel bearing should fall right out.
You obviously need to take it back apart and see what the issue is. Did you install the pad backwards?? You could have cocked the piston when you compressed it back in .
Did you have the rotors turned? Did you check for rotor runout? Did you remove all rust from hub face and rotor mounting surface? Did you remove rust from caliper or pad slides? Lube all caliper and pad sliding surfaces? Are the pads application specific? Did you flush and bleed the fluid? Did you torque the wheels properly?
as long as your sure its comeing from the front right tire proceed
to get to the bearing you have to take the wheel off first, rotate the rotor to see if you can hear the bearing.
remove wheel
remove brakes/caliper/caliper bracket/rotor
remove cotter pin/axle nut
remove 4 bolts from wheel bearing assy
unplug electrical connector for ABS, if has it
tap axle end lightly to dislodge fron wheel bearing assy
may need pry bar and hammer or air chisel to remove wheel bearing assy from vehicle
clean orifice well and installation is the opposite to inspect the bearings take it out , and look for loose or stuck bearings, if it rolls freely chances are its not bad. . if water or dirt gets inside it can ruin the bearing. make sure you pack the bearing with grease. if the bearing is bad just buy a new one. i cant guarantee it is a bearing so good luck.
If you can't see diagrams(sometimes happens) let me know and I will get them to you
Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the rear wheels.
If equipped, disconnect the brake pad wear sensor from the harness.
Counterhold the lower sliding pin using a thin open-end wrench and remove the caliper-to-sliding pin hex bolt.
Pivot the caliper upward or if necessary remove the upper caliper-to-sliding pin hex bolt.
Using
a brake caliper retraction tool, select the appropriate sized piston
press arbor and install the tool onto the brake caliper. Following the
tool manufacturer's recommendations, use the tool to rotate the caliper
piston clockwise as it is pressed into the brake caliper housing, until
it is fully retracted.
Use a thin open-end wrench to . . .. . . support the caliper sliding pin when removing the caliper mounting boltUse a disc brake caliper piston retracting tool that will rotate the caliper piston as it is pressed into the caliperThe rear caliper piston is slotted to allow a retracting tool to rotate the piston when replacing the brake padsTo install:
Clean
the brake caliper and all sliding surfaces. With the caliper piston
pressed fully back into the caliper housing, check for leaking fluid
and damaged dust boots.
If equipped, install a new brake pad
wear sensor in the pad if the plastic part has been worn through on the
old sensor. New sensors are not required unless the wire inside the
plastic part has been exposed.
Lubricate the slider bolts with approved brake grease.
Install
the brake pads onto the bracket assembly, and then carefully lower the
caliper over the caliper mount. Check and make sure that the pad
springs are correctly seated.
Replace all removed caliper-to-sliding pin bolts and torque to:
1990-97 Passat models: 25 ft. lbs. (35 Nm)
1998-00 Passat models: 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
If
equipped, connect the brake wear sensor wire to the harness. Check for
a good connection as most problems with the sensor circuit are caused
by faulty connections. Check that the wire is held by the loop in the
dust cover and the connector is held at the clips.
Install the
wheels and hand tighten the lug bolts. Lower the vehicle carefully
until the tires begin to contact the surface and torque the lug bolts
to specification in a crisscross pattern to:
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