easyautodiagnostics.com > Ford > 2.3L
Mar 1, 2012 - Spark plugs for cylinders #2 and #3 get spark at the exact same time. ...voltage -12 Volts) to both individual ignition coils within the coil pack. ... Ford Mustang or Ranger (or 2.3L Mazda B2300), this is what you'll need ... for this 'Switching Signal' at the coil pack... but you can also test this ... 1991, 1992, 1993.
troubleshootmyvehicle.com > Ford > 2.3L
Apr 3, 2012 - Bad Fuel Injectors can cause a Misfire Condition. ... the ignition system on the 2.3L Ford Mustang or Ranger consists of 2 ignition coil packs, ...
www.topix.com > Ford Ranger
Jul 27, 2007 - My truck is giving the code misfire in number 4 cyl. I replaced my spark plugs, Wires, Coil packs (both of them) and all my fuil ... three (3.0L v6) go bad, the fuel/air mixture gets messed up. Judged: 2. 2 ... My truck runs rough only at idle. ...code for ford ranger 2002, 2.3 5speed. truck runs like a champ but that ...
answers.edmunds.com > Edmunds Answers
Problem resolved!
I called the Mazda dealers in this area and in one breath, one breath they could have said that there has to be component changes for you to get a spark, they didn't even have to tell me which ones if they didn't want, I would have figured it out. They said absolutely nothing but "tow it in, we charge $90 an hour." Also, when it comes to buying any technical component- a part from a transmission, etc.- don't look for Mazda to even want to sell it to you. They will flat tell you "we don't like to sell those and would rather our shop to do the work." If they will sell it, they will want to sell you either the entire transmission, or some small basic component part that will cost almost as much as the entire transmission. For example, try to buy a transmission oil pump component and they will want to sell you the entire oil pump, a manufactured piece of metal that can fit in the palm of both hands for about $450. (The American dream must be good!) So much for Mazda!
Basically, the problem was this simple, as usual. A single pack coil component- one coil does all- (which my replacement engine had) does function basically in the same manner as all of these distributor less engines (with the computer receiving information from the crank position sensor and camshaft position sensor then interpreting that information, making necessary adjustments, and then sending out the need voltage pulses for the specific ignition system), however the information must be specific to the type of ignition system you have (one coil or multiple coils over each plug). It is the crankshaft pulley and the specific type crankshaft that gives the computer the specific information for either one of the two systems. So, if you swap engines, you can't just think you can plug on some adapter to make up the differences in ignition coils. There is no such thing. If your two engines have different coil ignition systems, you must also swap out the crank pulley and camshaft, making sure you have the correct and specific ones for your type of coil ignition system, or you would never get a spark. If you only swap the crank pulley you will get a spark but the engine will never start, it takes both the information from the crank and the camshaft for it to run. The camshaft also has to be swapped out. Compare the components by sight and you will see the differences in the tabs around the crank pulley, and the metal prong tabs at the end of the intake camshaft. The exhaust camshaft will not be any different, you can swap that one out too if you please. Without swapping out both of these components making sure the specific components match up with the correct ignition coil system, the car will never fire. It is a job but has to be done, and the car will run properly.
The crank position sensor is located on the bottom of engine by the crank as expected and, as with all sensors, you will see a wire running to it. You can loosen the two bolts and adjust it, or "tweak" it, to affect the timing a little. The camshaft position sensor is located at the end of the valve head cover just above those metal prong tabs at the end of the camshaft, as expected. There are a few different types of sensors but that information one can look up. If either of these components go bad, your car will not start. They are easily replaced however. Usually the adjustments on whatever type of sensor you have is not extremely critical in getting the car to start if they are out of adjustment.
Also, another great learning experience here. If you swap out engines, depending upon where you buy the replacement engine, it could have been completely drained of oil. If it has and has been sitting for more than a week or so, it will go into a "dry" condition. Even if you put oil in the engine, that is not sufficient to give the engine the required oil it needs and protect the bearings and other components, especially in newer engines, and especially if components have been changed. If the engine is not completely flooded with oil and the pump ready to start pumping oil the moment, the moment the engine is turned over, you are going to "spin some bearings" at the very least. This means the unoiled metal rubbing on metal will wear down the bearing almost instantaneously. The bearing is just a half circle of metal that is soft metal and fits between any shaft and the component that connects to it. There are top and bottom parts to make the complete ring. The design is set that way so the bearings will wear before the major components such as the crank or the connecting rods that must be connected together around the shaft. Once the bearing is worn the least bit, the connecting rods that push the pistons up and down will shake, rattle, and slap around creating that "knock" in the engine that you always hear everyone talking about- bad, very bad. In a short while, if unattended, this will shake until something happens to the piston. If that breaks or broken metal falls into the cylinder wall, it will gouge the cylinder wall- very, very bad. Those walls must be smooth or oil will leak through and go to places it should not go, or be blown out of the engine without doing its normal function. Sometimes the cost of replacing that cylinder sleeve, or re-boring out the cylinder (if the gouge is not too bad) will cost almost as much as an engine replacement. So, "turning a bearing" is no minor thing. Without proper oil the engine will do that in just a couple of cranks and turns of the engine because you will have metal components rubbing on metal components. So, you must flood the crank area with oil, and if there is a way to prime the oil pump that must be done, unfortunately I don't know how so can't give you that info.
Anyone out there have new and cheap connecting rod bearings for a Mazda6 2.3L engine? Yea, except for forums like this we all seem to learn the hard way. God bless.
Problem resolved!
I called the Mazda dealers in this area and in one breath, one breath they could have said that there has to be component changes for you to get a spark, they didn't even have to tell me which ones if they didn't want, I would have figured it out. They said absolutely nothing but "tow it in, we charge $90 an hour." Also, when it comes to buying any technical component- a part from a transmission, etc.- don't look for Mazda to even want to sell it to you. They will flat tell you "we don't like to sell those and would rather our shop to do the work." If they will sell it, they will want to sell you either the entire transmission, or some small basic component part that will cost almost as much as the entire transmission. For example, try to buy a transmission oil pump component and they will want to sell you the entire oil pump, a manufactured piece of metal that can fit in the palm of both hands for about $450. (The American dream must be good!) So much for Mazda!
Basically, the problem was this simple, as usual. A single pack coil component- one coil does all- (which my replacement engine had) does function basically in the same manner as all of these distributor less engines (with the computer receiving information from the crank position sensor and camshaft position sensor then interpreting that information, making necessary adjustments, and then sending out the need voltage pulses for the specific ignition system), however the information must be specific to the type of ignition system you have (one coil or multiple coils over each plug). It is the crankshaft pulley and the specific type crankshaft that gives the computer the specific information for either one of the two systems. So, if you swap engines, you can't just think you can plug on some adapter to make up the differences in ignition coils. There is no such thing. If your two engines have different coil ignition systems, you must also swap out the crank pulley and camshaft, making sure you have the correct and specific ones for your type of coil ignition system, or you would never get a spark. If you only swap the crank pulley you will get a spark but the engine will never start, it takes both the information from the crank and the camshaft for it to run. The camshaft also has to be swapped out. Compare the components by sight and you will see the differences in the tabs around the crank pulley, and the metal prong tabs at the end of the intake camshaft. The exhaust camshaft will not be any different, you can swap that one out too if you please. Without swapping out both of these components making sure the specific components match up with the correct ignition coil system, the car will never fire. It is a job but has to be done, and the car will run properly.
The crank position sensor is located on the bottom of engine by the crank as expected and, as with all sensors, you will see a wire running to it. You can loosen the two bolts and adjust it, or "tweak" it, to affect the timing a little. The camshaft position sensor is located at the end of the valve head cover just above those metal prong tabs at the end of the camshaft, as expected. There are a few different types of sensors but that information one can look up. If either of these components go bad, your car will not start. They are easily replaced however. Usually the adjustments on whatever type of sensor you have is not extremely critical in getting the car to start if they are out of adjustment.
Also, another great learning experience here. If you swap out engines, depending upon where you buy the replacement engine, it could have been completely drained of oil. If it has and has been sitting for more than a week or so, it will go into a "dry" condition. Even if you put oil in the engine, that is not sufficient to give the engine the required oil it needs and protect the bearings and other components, especially in newer engines, and especially if components have been changed. If the engine is not completely flooded with oil and the pump ready to start pumping oil the moment, the moment the engine is turned over, you may "spin some bearings" at the very least. This means the unoiled metal rubbing on metal will wear down the bearing. The bearing is just a half circle of metal that is soft metal and fits between any shaft and the component that connects to it. There are top and bottom parts to make the complete ring. The design is set that way so the bearings will wear before the major components such as the crank or the connecting rods that must be connected together around the shaft. Once the bearing is worn, the connecting rods that push the pistons up and down will shake, rattle, and slap around creating that "knock" in the engine that you always hear everyone talking about- bad, very bad. In a short while, if unattended, this will shake until something happens to the piston. If the piston ruptures or metal breaks off and falls into the cylinder wall, it will gouge the cylinder wall- very, very bad. Those walls must be smooth or oil will leak through and go to places it should not go, or be blown out of the engine without doing its normal function. Sometimes the cost of replacing that cylinder sleeve, or re-boring out the cylinder (if the gouge is not too bad) will cost almost as much as an engine replacement. So, "turning a bearing" is no minor thing. Make certain there is sufficient oil in the engine and components are lthoroughly coated or you will have metal components rubbing on metal components. God bless.
Recheck your work, it is something you did wrong, no way to tell from here.
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