Engine running rough and noise from water pump

1. If running rough the computer will be generating fault codes to assist with diagnosis. You need to have the car scanned to pull up the fault codes being generated because there will be one or 2 as you likely have a misfire condition.

2. IF the coolant leak is not from a failing flexible coolant hose connection or a break in a hose, it is probably coming from a failed gasket in the water pump on the front section of the engine.

3. The squealing from the pulley you mentioned is more likely belt squeal. Once the serpentine belts get damp from leaking coolant they will begin to squeal. Identify and fix the leak first and you will find when the belt dries up it will stop making noise.

you might have a clogged radiator, your timing belt may need adjustment have a mechanic look at this immediately you could be risking blowing up your engine... it will be costly to fix but in the long run save you money by not having to buy new car

Check you may have a vacuum line off .

How much the leaking of water is? It is usually common to find some drops of water beneath the engine due to the working of AC components. If it is the coolant, your car might have a leak somewhere in the radiator, hoses or water pump. However, this will again cause the engine temp gauge to rise. The rough running engine could be due to number of reasons like, clogged fuel or air filter, injectors, MAF sensor, O2 sensor etc. It is better to first try inspecting the spark plugs for their proper functioning; this will bring down the problem a bit. Also, if there is a CEL blinking it is better to get the codes read.

Sounds like the Brake booster. There is also a valve on the vacuum line going to the booster. Its plastic and can crack and leak.

You can do a water spray test with a pump bottle. Spray the brake booster while the engine runs, spray the vacuum lines and the fittings. When the water is drawn into the engine it will change RPM or stall. The leak is where you sprayed to make the RPM change.

You will need to replace the defective part.

dodgy injector or wiring

if poor performance was noticed right off the bat, the timing belt is not timed properly. this will cause lack of power, rough idle, pre ignition(little noisey), and rich exhaust.youre going to need to first, find a friend or someone whom you trust to do your automotive work.second youre going to need to start over by tearing it all down systematically and taking note of anything done wrong. third find reliable information on the timing marks for this vehicle. i hope for your sake nothing is broken. let me know how this turns out, ill be happy to help further if you need.

I dont know how you learnt about engines but if some ones been telling you about it then there up the creek,as
COOLANT has to be in the block and in the heads and in the heater as its a water cooled engine. BUT if you mean the water is in were the oil is then you have got a problem like either a cracked head/or a blown head gasket/ a cracked block /or just a lnlet manifold water jacket gasket or cracked , But tell me has the engine overheated in the past 4 days of driving/has the engine lost a lot of coolant/has the engine been running rough??????????????? if yes to any of these then changing the water pump isent going to do anything for you except waste your money as water pumps have to have a bad groaning noise and loss of water running out of the front of engine going or not .
BUT wont put water in the oil ..
So let me know what the answers are as soon as poss so we can see if we can fix your car. Ron

take off your serp-belt and spin your water pump, alternator, idler pully and see what squeaks or feels rough. your water pump bearings may be bad. the only thing you can do is change it. dont forget to change your thermostat and antifreeze. FYI your antifreeze is made with lubricants in it for your water pump bearings.

Sounds like you have a sticking valve