Before it stalled out it made a loud knocking sound then stalled. Was able to start up for a few seconds then stalled out again. Now won't start.
SOURCE: 2002 kia rio stalls when coming to a stop if the gas is not applied
My personnel fix for this.
Here are some of the causes of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
SOURCE: I have a 2002 Kia Sportage - idle slow when stopping at lights
Even though the fuel filter and pump are easy to replace, I would start with the IAC sensor first. It is easier to get to and is cheaper than the other two if you can find one at a wrecking yard (should be around $20). This sensor is the Idle Air Control sensor, and the computer decides how much throttle to give at idle from the readings of the sensor. If it is bad your car will idle poorly or not at all.
You can verify this two simple ways:
1. Disconnect the sensor completely and see if anything changes. If you get the same issue, then it's probably the sensor. If different then it could be fuel delivery.
2. With it all hooked up; try throttling the engine yourself at 1000-1200 rpm and see if it is smooth. If it is then it is probably the sensor. If not then could be the fuel delivery.
The sensor is under the silver and black, plastic KIA cover over the engine (4 small nuts to remove), and is center above the engine on the front side of the intake pipe.
The part looks like this:
If it seems to still be fuel delivery, the filter is (facing the engine from the front of the car) down to the left and toward the back attached to the fender well (Just to the right of and below the battery)
SOURCE: KIA RIO Central Locking problem
Hello,
1, Use fob to unlock and immediately open passenger door. This will give you access to bonnet release switch.
2, Open bonnet and remove 25AMP Door lock fuse
3, Spray WD40 on key- place in drivers door lock and gently try to open and close- do not use force. Half remove key and spray more WD40 into barrell. Keep gently playing until you can lock and unlock using key
4, Replace 25AMP fuse
5, It worked for me- hopefully for you also
SOURCE: knock sensor replacement
Turn ignition off. Disconnect knock sensor 3
-
pin harness connector. Locate knock sensor, on cyli
nder block.
On Optima 2.7L engine, sensors are located on both
sides of cylinder block. . Remove knock
sensor from cylinder block. To install, reverse rem
oval procedure.
SOURCE: Kia sedona. Knocking sound from Engine
I assume by now you have this problem fixed, but if not, or for the benefit of others looking for help, try replacing the coil on the #5 cyl as well as the injector. Ours did same thing, except fault code was on #2 cyl, so I got the parts from local parts store for about $150 total, and completed the repairs myself on my wife's 2003 Sedona. Now i can start on the rear heater issues, the knocking sound coming from the LF tire area while in motion, and replacing all brake pads. 92,000 on the odo. I'll spend the extra $ and go with the Honda Odyssey next time.
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