I have a 1995 Ford Ranger with a 3.0 v6 and 5 speed manual transmission, and the transmission went out. Well in searching for a transmission nowhere i look has a 3.0 ranger within 100 miles of where i'm at nor one cheap enough to afford as i have not got alot of money to spend on it. But reading up on it I cannot get a definite answer anywhere (not even FORD dealers) that in 1995 all the manual shift rangers went to a M5OD-R1 transmission...... they're stating they're all the same yet they're one piece bell housing transmissions. Does this mean I can get the M5OD-R1 out of my 1995 Ford ranger with a 2.3 4 cylinder that is totaled and put it in my 1995 ford ranger with a 3.0 Vulcan V6?
Check to see if the trans codes match from the VIN or the Ford manufactures plate on the drivers side door jam on both trucks.
SOURCE: Ford ranger, getting harder to shift into gear
Suggest you check the fluid level of the transmission first. Remove the fill plug, and see if it is Below the proper level. Do Not fill at this time! There is a reason for this.
Then I would suggest draining the fluid. You are also looking for brass fragments in the fluid. Drain into a three quart metal, or plastic drain pan. (They are approximately 18 inches across, and 4 inches deep)
1.Manual transmissions use Synchronizer's made of a brass alloy. The synchronizers have tapered teeth, that the nose of the teeth can be worn down. Also a tapered surface on the synchronizer, that can be worn down. Brass fragments in the transmission fluid is a sign of this wear.
Some brass 'dust' will occur as normal wear. A large accumulation means you have problems. Transmission is hard to shift, is one of those symptoms due to this.
This link to an animated working of a five-speed manual transmission, may help to explain how the components interact with each other, and also help me to explain the Synchronizer/s.
(From Howstuffworks.com - Auto- Under the Hood - Transmissions and Drivetrain)
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission3.htm
Looking at the animation, observe the 'gold' colored parts. In particular, observe the the pair of gold colored teeth at the rear. (The teeth are in a vertical row, going up and down)
Now also observe the blue colored teeth next to them, on either side. (On the spinning gears)
You are looking at a side view of the transmission, and also a side view of the Synchronizers.
The synchronizers are round just like the gears. They have a Female tapered surface where they meet the gear. The gear has a Male tapered surface on the outside of the gear, that matches.
When the female tapered surface of the synchronizer meets the male tapered surface of the gear, the friction contact makes the synchronizer start turning the same speed, as the gear.
Helps the gear being shifted into start turning also, and the - teeth of the synchronizer, - gear to be engaged, and - already turning components are synchronized to each other. They will be all turning the same speed, so shifting will be smooth.
This shows you Synchronizer rings for a 4-speed Muncie transmission,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUNCIE-4-SPEED-BRASS-SYNCHRONIZER-RINGS-1963-TO-1974_W0QQitemZ360137693405QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=&itemid=360137693405
Enlarge it for a better view.
See the teeth going around the synchronizer ring? Notice that they are pointed, or V shaped. When the nose, or tip of this V is worn down, a manual transmission is hard to shift.
Also observe the flat landing on top. (In this view it's on top) The flat landing has three rectangular cutouts in it. (There are used for Detents)
Come from that top landing, down the side to the teeth. This Side has a tapered surface. Tapered ever so slightly, that it is not readily visible in this photo.
When this tapered surface wears down, the transmission is hard to shift.
Summation?
1.Low fluid will cause hard shifting. It will also cause abnormally high wear of the synchronizer rings, (Synchronizer Rings are also referred to as 'Blocker Rings')
2.Worn Synchronizer Rings,
Broken or worn Detent 'buttons',
Broken Detent Springs,
and worn Synchronizer Hub's,
will cause hard shifting.
Should you not have an abnormal amount of brass shavings in your transmission fluid, and found the fluid to be low, you may want to just replace the fluid to the proper level, and see if this works first.
If so, I suggest contacting your Ford dealer, and see what the proper transmission fluid is for YOUR Ford Ranger. They will go by THE transmission is used in your truck, and will have any updates if better fluid has been developed since your truck was made.
I know dealers are expensive to buy from sometimes, but I implore you to use the transmission fluid they recommend.
It will have special additives.
SOURCE: what kind of transmission fluid for 2003 ford
DONT USE GEAR OIL IN A MANUAL TRANSMISSION. it will blow your seals out. the gear oil is too heavy and will block passages in the tranny
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Ok so after some aggravation and ripping everything apart..... no this is not a possible way to fix it. The rangers did in fact change over to M5OD-R1 in 1995. But when looking them up although they say the transmissions are all the same the bell housings differ. Which means they're not the same. But taking both transmissions apart the internals and shifters are identical other than the tailshafts between 2wd and 4wd transmissions. So to answer any questions and my own about this NO IT WILL NOT FIT unless you swap internals. But unfortunately I was only needing a tailshaft out of it.... The problem is is YOU DO HAVE TO DISASSEMBLE THE ENTIRE TRANSMISSION TO GET TO THE TAILSHAFT. Which means time money and a rebuild kit. If it were me I'd just get a new transmission as I did and screw all the rest of the ****. By the way Virginia is the place to find 3.0 v6 Ranger transmissions lol I have never seen junkyards with more 3.0 5 speeds in my life.
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