Rpms dropping when letting off gas, then the tach bounces up and down
Hi there:
The EGR is located on the front side of the engine. You will need to remove the air cleaner assembly the covers the front side of the engine. After this is removed, you will be able to see the EGR valve.
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To test--blow air into valve-if it goes thru then diafram is bad--also the gasket that attaches valve to exhaust could be bad
Testimonial: "after checking the idle motor, i found it was dirty just as arnie said, now I'm gonna try replaceing it since the cleaning didn't work"
that idle air motor and passage is probly dirty--scan car-code may show up--also if it has a distributr cap-inspect inside for wear
are u reading the my lastest comment on the egr valve--the idle motor and dist cap--------theres ur answer
tried cleaning the IAM, it was covered in carbon build up, re installed it and cleared the code, but the problem is still there, gonna replace it Monday when i'M off again,
99 pontiac sunfire gt 2.4 no egr plug and egr. It dies when going from park to drive. Please help
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The EGR valve should be right up by the fire wall to rear of engine. Here is picture of the valve.
SOURCE: my 1994 firebird with a 3.4L check engine light
REMOVE EGR VALVE CLEAN OUT THE CARBON INSIDE THE EGR VALVE PORT HOLE IN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD WHERE EGR VALVE SITS.CAREFULLY USE A PIECE OF CLOTHES RACK OR A TINY SCREW DRIVER CLEAN CARBON OUT ROUND HOLE.USE A SHOP VAC TO VACUUM UP THE DEBRIS TO KEEP FROM GETTING INSIDE INTAKE.DONT USE SHOP VAC IF YOU HAVE ANY FUEL LEAKS OR SMELL GAS FUMES UNDER THE HOOD.
Testimonial: "thanks will give it a try."
SOURCE: when a/c is turned on idles rough and rpms drop
It's possibly the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). The TPS controls the throttle in different conditions i.e. cold,warm, AC operation. It could be the TPS isn't idling fast enough when you operate the AC.
SOURCE: 2003 Ford Taurus wants to die when coming to a stop
TRY THIS AND LET ME KNOW IF IT CORRECTS YOUR PROBLEM
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls at stops and low erratic idle speed and rough idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake
SOURCE: how do you clean the egr valve on 99 pontiac montana
You would need to remove it and look into the passage that is covered in black soot. there is usually a little poppet that moves up and down to allow the exhaust gas to pass thru it, some are vacuum operated and some are electric. you can push the poppet open and scrape out the carbon with a little screw driver, generally they dont get all that pluged up on newer cars. I looked at a picture of yours at auto zone.com It appears yours is electrically actuated. If either the electric actuator or the position feedback in the valve are bad you would need to replace it. You could attempt to clean it and move the poppet up and down it could just be stuck
SOURCE: When my 1991 Deville 4.9 Liter Engine is cold it
The combination of heat and missing tells me that you have an ignition problem. Warm the engine as much as possible and take a water mister and mist the exhaust manifold with the water mist at each cylinder where the exhaust comes out of the cylinder. The cylinder(s) that doesn't evaporate as quickly as all the others is the one that's missing (no combustion = no heat out the exhaust for that cylinder). The next thing to do is to pull the spark plug. examine it for dirt built up around the electrode. If it's dirty then just replace all your plugs. If the plugs look good ( not worn - no contaminates around the electrode) then suspect plug wires. If all the cylinders evaporated the water pretty much the same, then your coil wire to the distributor cap or the cap and/or rotor itself is faulty. Examine the rotor cap and rotor for thin black lines running along the inside. If you find evidence of arcing (the lines inside) then replace the cap and rotor at the same time. The data you gave though sounds more like plugs or plug wires if I were to guess... For best results you should plan on replacing plugs/wires/rotor/distributor cap at the maintenance intervals suggested in the owners manual. But now that you're having these issues you should have some kind of concrete evidence before replacing these items - that is unless you've never replaced them ever before. In which case it's high time to have replaced them.
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I replaced the tps and it changed nothing, when letting off the gas the tach drops suddenly and then bounces, until it gets under 25mph. Gonna try cleaning the air valve and the other one mentioned with intake cleaner.see if that works..Have had this problem before but it always fixed itself after a few days..just looking for answers..
I an not sure why you are talking about the TPS, I thought you were after the EGR location?
I replaced the tps because I was told that it was bad, thats why it wouldn't hold position, and the engine would surge and tach would bounce when I let off the gas. After that didn't work I was told to clean the egr valve, and the intake system..I'm just tired of haveing to hold the gas with one foot and the brake with the other to keep the engine running.
I cleaned the idle air motor, and reset the codes, but the problem is still there, I'm gonna try installing a new IAM and see if that works. All points to the IAM, if all my research is correct..maybe cleaning didn't do the trick..at least I know the car will get me to work and back.
I had the same issue with my 98 cavi. It turned out to be the TPS. I clenaed it real good. AND replaced it with a junkyard one that i cleaned really good. It worked fine after that. No more double pedal action.
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