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My 2004 licoln avaitor will not start. New battery fully charged. Turn the ignition key on panel lights come on but ehgine does not turn over. Makes a clicking noise.
Battery died over night. While charging battery a noise is coming from fuse panelBattery died over night. While charging battery a noise is coming from fuse panel
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If your 2004 Chevrolet Trailblazer won't start even though the battery is fully charged and the interior lights don't work, it could be due to a faulty ignition switch or a blown fuse.
Here are a few troubleshooting steps you can try:
Check the fuses - Start by checking the fuse box under the hood and the fuse box under the rear seat. Look for any blown fuses and replace them as necessary.
Check the ignition switch - The ignition switch is located on the steering column. Try turning the key to the "on" position and wiggling it slightly to see if the lights or other electrical components come on. If they do, the ignition switch may be faulty and need to be replaced.
Check the battery connections - Ensure that the battery terminals are clean and securely attached. If they are loose or corroded, the battery may not be able to deliver enough power to start the vehicle.
Check the starter - If you hear a clicking sound when you turn the key, but the engine does not crank, it could be due to a faulty starter. Have a mechanic check the starter to see if it needs to be replaced.
If none of these steps resolve the issue, it's recommended to have a qualified mechanic inspect the vehicle to diagnose and repair the problem.
A few questions so I can help. Is this a Suzuki motorbike or a car? What EXACTLY does it do when you turn the key? How did you 'check for electric'? A vehicle battery should have between 12.6volts to 13.2 volts.
When you turn a starter motor over it needs a large amount of volts to power it, anything under 10 volts and it will struggle. Even a fully charged battery can struggle to turn a starter motor if it is old or faulty.
Try this. First look at the battery and check the terminals are clean and tight. Sometimes it can be as easy as that. Turn the key and look and listen carefully. Try to start the engine. Do you get absolutely nothing and no dash lights? Do you get dash lights which go off when you start the bike but you only get a quiet 'Click'? Do you get dash lights which go off and then a louder 'Clunk'? Does the engine turn over but it's very slow and lazy?
Absolutely nothing suggests a dead or totally flat battery and a lazy, slow starter is a low charge in the battery. A Quiet click could be the Starter Relay and a louder 'Clunk' could be the starter solenoid or the starter itself.
Use the comment button below with more information and i'll try to help more.
Its a good possibility that the Anti-theft is interferring with the circuit. If you have an extra ignition key, use that in case the password chip in your regular FOB has detriorated.
There is a brake sensor which is on the upper brake pedal. It interlocks with the starter to prevent starting without having your foot on the brake pedal. Check your brake lights for operation. If the brake lights stay dark with your foot on the pedal, the switch is broke or knocked out of position. A common problem.
Next, there are small wires for the starter solenoid. You can use a test light on one removed wire and ground the test light to the vehicle, the other end in the small wire. Turn the keyswitch to start, with brake pedal pressed and see if it lights up. If it does light up, the starter solenoid may be bad.
Battery level. Ford Anti-theft and some say Battery-saver, can cause both starting and charging problems. A fully charged battery can be at 13.2V- 13.6V. When Ford systems detect low voltage it can activate the Anti-theft, battery-saver, and even disconnect the charging system to allow the battery to completely drain. In some cases the Anti-theft drops starter voltage to around 7V so the starter will not spin. Have the battery tested.
I know of 2004 trucks that were jump started and showed charging, then after 5-10 minutes they lost the charging system. Some people lost the charging system at 70MPH and drove until they stalled. All because of the automatic features built into the trucks. A new battery fixed the problem. Your problem could stem from this.
There is a magnetic switch on the 'park' position. The car only starts or releases the key in 'park' is enabled. Maybe this switch is not working! Try to replace it!
Yes the system has to be programmed and you can do this yourself.Just make sure the battery is fully charged and attempt to start then release the key but do not turn it off just release it as if it had started.the security light will remain on for about 10 minutes and then go off.After it goes off.Turn the ignition off and wait 5 seconds.Then turn the key on and start the car.It should start and run now.The body control module has learned the new key.Hope this helps.Good luck.
ok here you go
make sure the battery is fully charged befor starting
turn ignition to run
attempt to start once then release the key in the run position
let vehicle sit with the key on for ten minutes
the security light should turn off
turn igniton switch off
wait 5 seconds
turn key to run position
let vehicle sit for 10 minutes
turn key off
wait 5 seconds
turn key to run position
let vehicle sit for ten minutes
turn key off
wait more than 6 seconds
and start engine
Is this the original battery? Have u had it tested? The no crank, clicking noise is classic dead battery symptoms, lights can still work, but not enough power to turn engine over. If it's the original battery, it's at the end of it's life cycle, and should be replaced. U can get the battery tested for free at any parts store.
Battery died over night. While charging battery a noise is coming from fuse panel
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